Bring your A GAME

Vitamin A is a powerful anti-ageing ingredient but it’s essential to recommend the right formulation for your client. Matt Taylor, Eve Taylor London’s brand and education manager, explains how

Vitamin A is gaining popularity in our industry as consumer demand increases for high-performance skincare which gives results above and beyond those of everyday cosmetics. But with various derivatives of this topical ingredient sharing similar benefits, many consumers can become confused with the choices out there and select an unsuitable formulation for their complexion.

In July, Eve Taylor London launches Retinoid Renew Complex, a new addition to its highly popular Age Resist range, complementing the collection with the power of vitamin A in the form of retinyl palmitate, along with other high-performance botanicals.

Vitamin A makes up a large category of retinoids that are used within skincare formulations. While all are derived from vitamin A, and share similar actions, such as increasing skin cell renewal, smoothing the skin’s texture and stimulating collagen production to improve the appearance of wrinkles; each has its own unique structure and level of activity, working on the skin in a different way.

At the highest end of the activity scale is retinoic acid. Also known as tretinoin, this prescription-only ingredient is regarded as the most effective form of vitamin A.

However, it is well known to be the most irritating and problematic, with its potential side effects bringing their own issues.

Retinaldehyde and retinol are both found in the centre of the scale in terms of effectiveness, with moderate irritation experienced from use.

The fourth is retinyl palmitate. While this form is at the lower end of the scale in its activity, it goes hand in hand with low irritation potential, making this derivative of vitamin A an ideal choice for many complexions. It can be easily introduced into the daily regime and used consistently with comfort and limited irritation, without the need to gradually accustom the skin to it. This offers great benefits, opening its use to those who are not able to tolerate its irritating sister derivatives.

How does retinyl palmitate benefit the skin?

Working on both the surface and deeper layers of the epidermis, retinyl palmitate boasts an array of benefits, allowing this wonder ingredient to target multiple concerns in one.

One of the most notable benefits offered by this ingredient is increased skin cell renewal. Its stimulating action causes the cells to turnover more quickly – something that slows down with the ageing process.

“Many consumers can become CONFUSED WITH THE CHOICES of vitamin A out there and select AN UNSUITABLE FORMULATION for their complexion„

In turn, this promotes the shedding of dulling cells accumulating on the surface and paves the way for new fresh cells to move to the surface. This exfoliating action promotes skin brightness and helps to create an even surface in those with uneven skin tone. Smoothing actions help to refine pore size at the same time as promoting an unclogging effect in those with congested and problematic breakout-prone skin.

Retinyl palmitate also helps to reinforce the skin’s density by stimulating production of collagen. Deeply absorbing into the skin layers, it binds to the receptors, which signal new production, simultaneously inhibiting the natural breakdown of this much-needed protein.

The highly antioxidant properties found within vitamin A defend against damaging free-radicals and oxidative stress, which leads to premature ageing and the negative characteristics that present in the complexion.

By maintaining and building collagen, the skin is kept thickened, reducing the formation of wrinkles and static lines by increasing lower layer density and supporting epidermal structure from within.

The new Retinoid Renew Complex

Eve Taylor London’s new Retinoid Renew Complex launches in early July and has been developed to meet client needs for the enhanced management of skin ageing.

Created for night-time use, the lightweight textured treatment complex is formulated to treat and improve the various characteristics ageing skin experiences. It complements other formulations within the Age Resist range, which are used in the daytime, ultimately precision-targeting skin concerns with a multi-angled approach in both the day and night.

The formulation boasts a highly stable encapsulated 1% retinoid to stimulate cell renewal, refine the skin’s texture and aid skin rejuvenation. This is accompanied by sodium ascorbyl phosphate and acerola cherry to brighten uneven skin tone, diminish age spots and promote a healthy, radiant complexion. Consistent use of Retinoid Renew complex promotes improved skin density, firmness and the smoothing of lines and wrinkles.

This easily absorbed treatment complex is an ideal starting point for those new to vitamin A, or for those whose skin has not previously tolerated retinol and vitamin A-based products.

Also available in a therapist-use size option, it can be used manually within the professional treatment and boosts results when combined with Eve Taylor London’s range of alginate peel-off masques. For those who use electrotherapy, the waterbased formulation is ideal to be used with electrotherapy modalities such as galvanic iontophoresis or ultrasonic ionisation, improving product penetration to enhance treatment room results and ultimate client satisfaction.