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NEWS

71% of women want to see beauty brands better promoting body positivity

71% of women and 57% of people overall in the UK want to see health and beauty brands promote body positivity, according to new research.

Body positivity was ranked the number-one area where women want to see brands taking action, beating climate change and LGBTQ+ equality, in the report by The Pull Agency, a creative agency specialising in healthcare and beauty brands.

Proving the demand for representation, just 5% of women surveyed said that they want brands to use attractive models that they can aspire to.

More than half (59%) of UK consumers said they believe that everyone should be proud of their appearance, however they look, and that people should never think judgementally about others based on their body shape or size.

Among older consumers, aged 55 and above, views on this altered slightly. The concepts that “some people are more attractive than others and that can’t be changed by positive thinking” and “it’s only human to judge people’s appearance, but it’s not something you should do aloud” were opinions held most commonly by consumers aged 55 and older.

When looking at brands that have done a particularly good job at promoting body positivity and celebrating real rather than idealised female bodies, Dove came out top with respondents.

The brand had three times as many mentions about celebrating diversity and body positivity than any other consumer beauty brand, with Boots and L’Oréal coming in second and third.

Kathrin Rodriguez-Bruessau, head of brand strategy at The Pull Agency, said, “Consumers don’t want to see photoshopped models or that brands are ‘ticking the box’ to show every subgroup of society.

We believe that’s only going to get stronger as time goes on and brands will need to change their marketing strategies accordingly.”

Call for more support for salons struggling to cope with soaring energy bills

As energy and gas bills rise across the UK, the British Beauty Council is urging the Government to act as beauty salons struggle to cope with the added costs.

With electricity prices around 53% higher and gas a staggering 95% higher than before, there are now concerns that, despite 41% of beauty businesses reporting as ‘busy’ after a difficult winter period, high street recovery could be short lived as businesses struggling to survive due to the rising costs.

In addition to higher energy bills, which account for 80% of hair and beauty businesses’ overheads, beauty businesses are having to cope with higher National Insurance bills, business rate increases and the end of the Covid-rent debt moratorium that protected them from eviction for unpaid rent.

In response, the British Beauty Council is urging the Government to review the policy on energy rebates it announced earlier in the year, to include businesses rather than solely domestic households.

British Beauty Council chief policy officer Victoria Brownlie said the energy price cap increase “has led to steep price increases for millions of customers”, adding, “This is on top of staff wages, National Insurance increases and business rate increases, which will be impacting many businesses who were only just starting to get their heads above water.”

News in brief

Dermalogica has developed a virtual human named Natalia, a tool that will be used to train tens of thousands of Dermalogica skincare professionals. The digital human technology simulates conditions such as ageing, dehydration and sensitivity, so learners can better understand how the skin responds to natural and environmental triggers.

Industry expert Gina Collins has opened a second training academy in Grimsby, North East Lincolnshire, where students can learn permanent make-up, microblading, laser and skincare. Collins already runs a successful academy in central Manchester.

A quarter of Gen Z consumers feel left out of beauty advertisements, according to new research by Mintel.

Gen Z consumers are also more likely to shop with beauty brands that have promoted diversity in the past year (38%), compared to any other age group (23%).

On June 14, SpaFest Gives Back at Carden Park offered a supportive wellness day for 40 people going through treatment for cancer and 40 people who support them. The event, a partnership between SpaFest and Carden Park, saw guests enjoy products and therapies from Gharieni, Made for Life Organics and Murad, plus Therapy Teas from Camellia’s Tea House.

The Grove in Hertfordshire has announced the relaunch of its Sequoia Spa from late June 2022, following an extensive three-phase refurbishment.

Alongside the refurbishment, The Grove will also unveil a selection of new treatments, including facials, massages and body rituals.

Retinol and gua sha among biggest beauty trends

Retinol has been named 2022’s biggest beauty trend, with over 9.2 million Google searches and 1.2 billion views on TikTok.

The research, by retail discount site Hey Discount, found the ingredient to be the most popular this year so far, based on TikTok views, Google searches and its 635,767 Instagram hashtags.

Retinol isn’t the only ingredient to make the list, with hyaluronic acid and niacinamide also making the top 10, amassing 6.84 and 6.4 million Google searches respectively.

The 10 biggest beauty trends of 2022 so far

1. Retinol

2. Graphic liner

3. Gua sha

4. SPF

5. DIY skincare

6. Lip scrub

7. Ombre lips

8. Glass skin

9. Hyaluronic acid

10. Niacinamide

The Euphoria effect is here to stay, with graphic eyeliner gaining one billion views on TikTok, and the hashtag being used 655,325 times on Instagram, making the statement make-up the second-biggest beauty trend this year.

Wellness tools are continuing to trend, as searches for #GuaSha on TikTok totalled 976.9 million views, with 502,093 Instagram posts using the same tag. The tools, sometimes known as “scraping” therapy, have been used and promoted by beauty therapists for years thanks to their ability to sculpt the face.

76% of women experiencing menopause don’t feel represented

Brands are failing to represent women transitioning through the menopause or perimenopause in the UK, according to new research by analyst Kantar and menopause support provider Over the Bloody Moon.

The study, Redefining the Menopause, found that two thirds of women who are currently experiencing menopause or perimenopause feel that brands aren’t doing enough to support them, while 76% don’t feel represented at all by brands’ advertising and marketing.

The study found that the most common menopausal symptoms were related to negative impacts on feelings and mood (67%) and selfconfidence (59%).

Helen Rowe, brand consultant in Kantar’s Insights division, said, “Brands shouldn’t define people by the menopause; rather it’s about making sure women feel seen and heard by reflecting greater diversity and inclusion in their creative content.”

News in brief

On June 20, NovaLash officially cut ties with its previous distributor in England and re-established itself under its formal company name, NovaLash International. As part of its market re-entry, NovaLash has also launched an online shop at novalash.co.uk

A new browser extension called The Beagle Button has been launched. It automatically recommends sustainable and ethical alternatives when shopping online. Whether shopping for new mascara or moisturiser, the technology aims to save consumers the hassle of researching sustainable credentials and ethics of brands.

Spa Business Education’s first scholarship has been awarded to Rail Iligan, group operations manager of male spa and salon, Spaloon Al Mawaleh in Muscat, Oman. The scholarship prize, worth $2,195, includes a personal course mentor and free online Spa Business Education course.

The Wellsystem Hydro-Therapy massage treatment from the JK Group has been introduced at the spa at the Old Thorns Hotel and Resort in Hampshire.

Wellsystem delivers a dry water full-body massage that connects all of the senses through light, colour, sound and smell.

Five beauty therapy learners at Eastleigh College have secured work placements. They will fulfil part-time roles in salons as they continue into their second year of study of Level 2 Beauty Therapy. Sam Gwyther, Level 2 Beauty Therapy course manager, said, “To accomplish this in the first year of study is no mean feat.”

Omega-3 could be key to acne treatment, finds new dermatology study

A new study by dermatologists in Germany has identified a potential link between low levels of omega-3 fatty acid in the blood and acne.

Of the 100 patients with acne studied by the dermatologists, 94% were found to have below recommended levels of omega-3 fatty acids in their blood.

This information could give hope for the 23 million people suffering with acne in Europe, offering new opportunities to potentially help manage the skin condition.

Omega-3 fatty acids reduce inflammation by stimulating the production of anti-inflammatory prostaglandins E1 and E3, leukotriene B5 and lower levels of the insulin-like growth factor (IGF) -1, the central hormone that induces acne.

The team behind the research, based at the Department of Dermatology and Allergy in Munich, also investigated the patients’ diets and found that those who said they regularly consumed pulses, such as chickpeas and lentils, as well as abstaining from sunflower oil, had higher levels of the fatty acid.

Omega-3 fatty acids are found in foods such as legumes, algae, nuts, seeds and non-farmed fish like wild salmon and sardines.

Babtac chair Lesley Blair awarded MBE in Queen’s Birthday Honours list

Lesley Blair, chief executive of associations Babtac and Cibtac, has been named in this year’s Birthday Honours list by The Queen.

Blair was awarded an MBE for services to the British beauty industry and for being an outstanding ambassador for the beauty sector.

Some of her key industry activities have included campaigning for self-regulation of beauty professionals in the UK and for legislation to prevent untrained individuals from establishing themselves as seemingly professional therapists.

During the pandemic, Blair advised the Government and helped to secure £19 million to support close contact services affected by covid restrictions.

Blair is the latest association head to be recognised, with the British Beauty Council’s Millie Kendall and Helena Grzesk receiving awards in the 2022 New Year Honours list.

News in brief

Laseraid hosted a series of open days for clinic owners and aspiring clinic owners in June across the UK. Held at both its headquarters in London and new base in Yorkshire, the days were designed to support practitioners by keeping them up to date with the latest techniques.

More dates are expected to follow soon.

A new eco-friendly al fresco spa and restaurant is planned for Dorset location Silverlake. Opening in 2023, the £10 million investment, owned by holiday home development company Habitat First Group, will have both an indoor and outdoor pool, with 16 lakeside treatment rooms and four lakeside cabanas.

Aesthetic technology manufacturer Cutera has launched a new virtual learning series in partnership with its Secret RF Advisory Board. The goal is to provide a clear understanding of the mechanism of action used in radiofrequency microneedling technologies. The first was hosted by Dr Tapan Patel.

Botched Ink, which fixes and removes unwanted microblading and permanent make-up, has launched in Australia. After launching in the UK in 2019 and expanding its microblading and eyebrow tattoo removal solution and training into the US and Canada, Botched Ink also hopes to expand to the EU soon.

Gaia Skincare has partnered with Spa Experience Chelsea. Treatments now available at the site’s Glam + Go spa and beauty bar include Gaia’s Poultice Massage, Indian Head Massage and Mother Gaia, a relaxing ritual for expectant or postpartum mums.

Complete ban on remote prescribing recommended in new JCCP guidance

The Joint Council for Cosmetic Practitioners (JCCP) has released new guidance, which could put a complete stop to remote prescribing of prescription medicines such as botox and topical adrenaline.

The JCCP has led the charge on the campaign for licensing, meaning its guidance is likely to be followed if and when a mandatory licensing scheme is agreed upon.

The new guidance stated that the JCCP “does not endorse or permit the use of remote prescribing of injectable, topical or oral for non-surgical cosmetic treatments in any circumstances”.

This covers “medicines that are used specifically for cosmetic purposes, such as botulinum toxins, injected local anaesthetic or topical adrenaline, and the emergency use of medicines such as hyaluronidase”.

The organisation issued the new guidance in light of the new amendment contained within the Health and Care Act (2022) proposing a licensing scheme for aesthetic treatments such as injectables, and the recent ban on injectables for under-18s, both of which have put close scrutiny on prescribing practices in the industry.

The JCCP guidance is in line with that of regulators such as the General Medical Council and the General Dental Council which have already banned members from remotely prescribing botox.

The Massage Company to open 10 sites in Scotland via new partnership

Franchise salon group The Massage Company has outlined plans to launch 10 centres in Scotland over the next three years, in partnership with Franchise&.

The centres will bring The Massage Company’s membership-based massage therapy to Scotland for the first time.

Founders Charlie Thompson and Elliot Walker said the new sites will generate up to 300 jobs.

Franchise& helps businesses to launch new franchises in the UK and internationally using expertise in marketing, psychology, legal frameworks and business modelling.

For franchisees, The Massage Company will offer an opportunity to join a service-based subscription business. Franchisees can be either hands-on owneroperators or hands-off owner-investors.

Tanning brand Fake Bake to return to UK under new distributor

Scent Global, distributor of branded and designer wholesale, fragrance, hair care, skincare, cosmetics and nail care products, is bringing US-based selftanning brand Fake Bake back to the UK.

Fake Bake’s exit from the UK market came when previous distributor Fake Bake United Ltd was placed into liquidation last year.

Fake Bake is a global brand, launched in the US in 1990s, offering self-tanning products.

As sole distributor for the UK, Scent Global will relaunch the Fake Bake brand to wholesalers and salons with a range of the brand’s self-tanning products and cosmetics.

It also plans to develop omnichannel offerings for both wholesale and direct-to-consumer sales. including broadcast, online and social media marketing.

Scent Global head of sales Michael Christian said: “The key to Fake Bake being an enormous success in the UK once again is the loyalty we know customers carry for the original self-tanning company. It’s been truly missed.”

Goodman Bros appointed distributor for Inverness

Goodman Bros has been announced as the sole UK and Ireland distributor for piercing system Inverness.

The specialist piercing system comprises the combination of fully-enclosed piercing earrings and the exclusive Inverness Safety Back.

Goodman Bros is a specialist in the supply of international brands to jewellery and gift retailers.

It provides its partners with instore training, event support, accredited virtual training, license support and contribution, and personalised marketing.

Inverness UK and Goodman Bros will service all sectors including beauty salons, pharmacies, jewellers, and tattoo and piercing parlours.

Totally UK rebrands to GDC Beauty Group UK following sale

Distributor Totally UK has rebranded to GDC Beauty Group UK following its purchase by Germaine de Capuccini in 2021.

Clare Dickens, managing director of GDC Beauty Group UK, said, “Former UK distributor Totally UK was bought by GDC Beauty Group early last year and I’m delighted to announce we have now changed our name to GDC Beauty Group UK to reflect the collaboration.

“We have joined Germaine de Capuccini’s worldwide network of subsidiaries in the US, Belgium, Italy, Columbia, Dominican Republic and Spain – amove that allows us to pool resources across the globe.”

News in brief

Natural and sustainable spa brand Tribe517 has welcomed four swarms of honeybees to its honeybee hive sanctuary at its new headquarters at Beddau Farm in Wales. On a mission to create more sustainable and ecofocused spa products, the onsite bees will help to reduce the brand’s carbon footprint since many Tribe517 products use honey and beeswax.

Louella Belle brand ambassador and celebrity manicurist Robbie Tomkins helped Olivia Colman get red carpet ready for the Bafta TV Awards in May in London. Tomkins used Artistic Nail Design’s shade Intoxicating, a luxurious deep burgundy, to complement Colman’s Alexander McQueen suit.

Laser company Lumenis has launched the Lumenis Academy, a series of specially tailored face-to-face and online webinars, advanced training, e-learning courses and live interactive workshops that aim to support aesthetics professionals.

Yumi Lashes has been rebranded as Yumi Beauty, with a new website, updates across social media and several launches scheduled for the coming months. Meanwhile, Yumi distributor and trainer Elysee Zhadikpur recently gave Kim Kardashian a lash lift and tint using the brand’s 2.0 formula.

Temple Spa partnered with Aqua Sana spa at Center Parcs Woburn Forest for a four-week pop up from May 20. It gave guests the opportunity to experience one of four Temple Spa face and body treatments and purchase products.

Diary dates

// July 3

Professional Beauty Awards Park Plaza Westminster Bridge The most prestigious and established awards scheme for the beauty, spa, nails and aesthetics markets.

020 7351 0536

professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards

// September 25-26

Professional Beauty North Manchester Central The largest beauty exhibition in the North is back with hot launches, education, competitions and more.

020 7351 0536

professionalbeauty.co.uk/north

// October 2-3

Olympia Beauty Olympia London Nail and beauty trade show with competitions.

01959 569867

olympiabeauty.co.uk

// October 8-10

Salon International ExCeL London An exhibition for hair professionals, salon owners and colleges.

020 3841 7370

salonshow.co.uk

// October 9-10

Professional Beauty Business ExCeL London An exhibition for spa directors, salon owners and independent freelancers.

020 7351 0536

professionalbeauty.co.uk/e/business

// November 6-7

Professional Beauty and HJ Ireland CityWest Dublin Discover new trends, pick up skills and network at Ireland’s leading show for beauty, spa and hair professionals.

0844 586 8195

professionalbeauty.ie

Nouveau HD Beauty Group partners with Treatwell

Nouveau HD Beauty Group – home of HD Brows, Nouveau Lashes and K.B Pro – has partnered with Treatwell.

Through the partnership, Nouveau will offer added business development support alongside its range of products and services.

The treatments that Nouveau customers offer will now be available to book on Treatwell.

Nouveau salons will also have the capability to manage their business with a Treatwell digital diary, online visibility, reporting and analytics while also being able to manage their warehouse stock and supplier orders.

The partnership aims to help reduce no shows and help salons achieve a broader online presence.

Kirsty Fox, group head of marketing at Nouveau HD Beauty Group, said, “Admin and marketing tasks are a major pain point for the beauty professional, so we’re delighted to partner with Treatwell and offer this support from another industry-leading brand.”

London aesthetics business grows with support from Laseraid

London aesthetic clinic business Mayfair Aesthetics Laser & Skin Clinics has signed a service and training contract with Laseraid whereby it will receive manufacturer training, laser device support from manufacturertrained laser engineers, as well as handpiece refurbishment.

Mayfair Aesthetics was founded by entrepreneurs Matthew Rundle and Luz McSheffery in 2016. The team has grown to 25 people across its four sites, with plans to expand to other locations. Mayfair Aesthetics will also be using Laseraid’s all-inclusive subscription offer on laser systems for its new clinics.

Australian laser brand Laseraid recently brought its services to the UK and provides aesthetic laser equipment via an all-inclusive subscription model or sales options, as well as training and servicing.

Matthew Rundle, managing director at Mayfair Aesthetics, said, “We depend on our laser machines to deliver a consistent and quality service for our clients; downtime is not an option for our reputation or our revenue.

“Our previous service partner let us down badly and it was such a relief to get Laseraid on board.”

This article appears in July 2022

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July 2022
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EDITOR’S COMMENT
New research this month has shown that many
NEWS
71% of women want to see beauty brands better
Take pride IN YOUR service job?
Are you guilty of being self-deprecating at work? Melanie Wallace, UK marketing manager at Timely Business Management Software, explains how learning to sing our own praises can lead to big business benefits
5 STEPS to keep clients COMING BACK
Is your beauty business struggling to retain clients? The team at Vagaro shares five ways to keep them rebooking and returning
PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.CO.UK
We take a look inside PB’s digital world
INSIDER BEAUTY
Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market
INSIDER SPA
Therapists working in spas and beauty salons
INSIDER NAILS
With summer holiday season finally upon us, gel-polish manicures are increasing in popularity
The world’s safest & most hygienic PIERCING SYSTEM
Adding ear and nose piercing to your treatment menu can provide high returns on a low investment. The team at Inverness explains how
On being HUMBITIOUS
Being humble doesn’t mean you can’t be ambitious. Hellen Ward discusses the virtues of humility in an industry where we’re often faced with demanding clients and boastful competitors
ASK THE Experts
Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business
Shaping the world of BEAUTY & WELLNESS BUSINESSES
Discover how subscription-free Fresha is boosting House of Gloss’s business
Talking to… MICHAEL NEWCOMBE
With plans for yachts, residences and virtual spa experiences, Four Seasons’ new vice president spa and wellness shares his thoughts on the innovations shaping the future of spa
Bring your A GAME
Vitamin A is a powerful anti-ageing ingredient but it’s essential to recommend the right formulation for your client. Matt Taylor, Eve Taylor London’s brand and education manager, explains how
HEALTHY ageing
Although the beauty industry has been making progress in diversity and inclusion, some older people still feel neglected. Ellen Cummings looks at whether it’s time to ditch the term “anti-ageing” and how beauty therapists can help clients aged over 60
TAKE BACK time
Are you running your salon, or is your salon running you? The team at Beu outlines how to save time and stay successful
AGE WELL
9 of the best professional skincare products to help older clients look and feel their best
Wave goodbye to WHITE SPACE
Tired of seeing gaps on your appointment sheets? Gavin Hoare outlines how to avoid no-shows and cancellations and fill in your white space
Standout SOFTWARE
From deposits to SMS reminders, these are the best software services available to reduce cancellations and no shows in your salon
GO mobile
With an increasing number of techs branching out alone, we ask the experts about the pros and cons of mobile nail work and how to make a success of it
11 TikTok beauty pros YOU SHOULD be following
From MUAs and nail artists to formulators and therapists, Lollie Hancock explores the TikTok accounts worth hitting follow for
The RELAX Lounge
Gemma Barratt, group spa director for the Daniel Thwaites group, tells Lollie Hancock about a £100,000 investment into the new relaxation area at Bristol’s Aztec Hotel & Spa
Claim YOUR EXPENSES
With the cost of living soaring, it’s crucial to claim all the business expenses you are entitled to. Joanne Thorne explains what you can claim as a limited company or a sole trader
Profit FROM LASER
Laser treatments are becoming increasingly popular. The team at Cosmeditech explains how to endure return on investment and run a profitable laser business
GLOW getters
This month’s launches include skin technologies to help clients get their glow on, and we try some serious cleansing and shaping treatments
BRIGHT FUTURE
This month’s hottest launches feature products to brighten your clients’ skin, nails and moods
CAREERS CRUSADE
The NHBF’s recent Careers at the Cutting Edge report painted a damning picture of a beauty skills and recruitment crisis. Chief executive Richard Lambert gives us the lowdown
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