Professional Beauty
Professional Beauty


13 MIN READ TIME

NEWS

Beauty industry excluded from Covid-19 grants: associations call for change

With beauty salons across the country being turned down for Additional Restrictions Grants, the National Hair & Beauty Federation (NHBF) and British Beauty Council (BBCo) have joined forces to send an open letter to Chancellor Rishi Sunak, calling for support.

In January it was confirmed that beauty salons were eligible to apply for financial support following Covid-19 disruptions. The Additional Restrictions Grant (ARG) is accessed through local authorities, but hundreds of reports show that more than 60 local authorities are either rejecting or not prioritising claims from beauty businesses – this is particularly distressing given that salons were among businesses with highest cancellations in December due to the spread of Omicron.

Richard Lambert, chief executive of the NHBF, said: “While we appreciate that each local authority is entitled to create their own criteria about which businesses receive ARG assistance, and that funding will not meet the needs of all businesses affected, it does appear that a significant number are actively excluding hair and beauty salons and barbershops in their area.”

Chief executive of the British Beauty Council, Millie Kendall OBE, said: “While our previous work ensured personal care businesses were highlighted within guidance as businesses that should be considered for support, local authorities have chosen to disregard this. They clearly do not regard our industry as essential, or the local businesses that operate within them as worthy of support, and we would like to know why.”

The NHBF and BBCo are asking beauty businesses to send a message to their local authorities to ask why they are excluding fellow businesses from this financial help.

Nine in 10 British women are unhappy with their skin

Dryness is the most common skincare complaint among British women, followed by closely by dullness and dark under-eye circles. Redness is also a top issue for those women surveyed.

Research conducted by Japanese skincare brand Hado Labo Tokyo quizzed 1,000 women aged 35 and over and found that only one in 10 were happy with their skin.

The brand’s findings also revealed the impact that two years living through coronavirus has had on our skincare routines. Almost a quarter of said they dropped their skincare routine during the coronavirus pandemic, though 18% reported their commitment to their skincare routine has improved.

The report also found that 68% of British women take time out of their day for their skincare routine, with more than half following a cleansetone-moisturise routine, and 38% using a scrub or wash followed by a moisturiser.

News in brief

Enhance Beauty, Lincolnshire, is now the largest independent CACI stockist in the UK after owner Lorna Pattenden purchased her 10th device. Pattenden said: “We deliver 40–50 CACI treatments per day on average between the two salons. CACI counts for a large percentage of our business.”

Hotel group Exclusive Collection has brought in Ian Mackie as spa operations manager at The Spa at South Lodge in Horsham, and Charlene Phipp as spa manager at Pennyhill Park in Bagshot. The pair will work on new experiences and training initiatives, beginning with a spa apprentice scheme in partnership with local colleges.

Tom Chapman, founder of the Lions Barber Collective (LBC), has released a book: How to Listen so Men Will Talk. The book uses the LBCs training approach to give readers the tools to recognise signs of depression, ask good questions, listen effectively, and play a supportive role.

Cidesco has launched its first nail services course – Cidesco Nails Services Diploma & Certificate. Developed alongside Marian Newman, founder of the Federation of Nail Professionals and organiser of PB London’s Nail Competitions, the course is aimed at those who would like to gain an all-round qualification as a nail tech.

Phorest Salon Software has revealed a new brand identity.

Phorest said the new look is “reflective of a fast-growing technology company that lives and breathes the hair and beauty industry and speaks directly to the salons and spas it serves”.

Salon Employers Association launches to represent VAT-paying salons and spas

Salon owners have formed an association to represent salons and spas that pay VAT and are PAYE-registered, to campaign for reform on fiscal and tax issues.

The group is the new incarnation of the Save Our Salons group, originally set up by a group of salon owners including PB columnist Hellen Ward and The Chapel Group’s Toby Dicker, to lobby Government for a VAT cut during the Covid-19 pandemic.

The new Salon Employers Association (SEA) launched this year with the key objective of campaigning on issues that affect the sector financially. Initial aims include a reduction in VAT and National Insurance contributions to better reflect the labour-intensive nature of the industry.

Dicker said: “I think we have to at least have a voice and at the moment, I don’t think we’re being represented correctly. If the industry average is that around 65% of businesses are self-employed, and the industry organisations are representing the majority of the industry in their opinions, then our voice is not being heard at all. However, that one third of PAYE-paying employers, and VAT-paying salons pay more than half the tax. Our membership so far contributes more than £180 million to the treasury.”

UK beauty industry misses out on £2.7bn per year by failing to cater to multi-ethnic customers

Multi-ethnic consumers spend £230 million per month on health and beauty, according to The Black Pound Report 2022: A Study of the Multi-Ethnic Consumer.

Yet four in 10 say they struggle to find cosmetics and skincare to suit them, resulting in the beauty industry losing out on a huge £2.7 billion per year. The report looked at the spending power, untapped potential and profitability of the UK’s black, Asian and multi-ethnic consumer base.

It found that multi-ethnic consumers spend 25% more on health and beauty than other consumers and eight in 10 multi-ethnic consumers are likely to recommend a brand to friends and family if they were impressed by it.

News in brief

3D Aesthetics hosted a press launch for microneedling and radiofrequency device 3D Dermaforce at the Mayfair Hotel, London, at the end of January.

Manging director Roy Cowley was joined by the brand’s key opinion leader Dr Jonquille Chantrey and key press from consumer titles including Grazia and Marie Claire.

Premier Software has partnered with Made for Life to help make spas more inclusive by training staff in Cancer Touch Therapy. Spas that use or purchase Core by Premier Software will receive 25% off Made for Life’s Cancer Touch Therapy qualification.

The Massage Company has launched a training academy that guarantees a job at the end of the course. Those who take part will graduate with a diploma in massage therapy from Think Tree Hub and will be given a role at one of The Massage Company’s centres.

Permanent make-up specialist and celebrity make-up artist Laura Kay has announced the launch of Laura Kay London Franchising. Following the success of her flagship clinic, the franchising will allow salon owners to run a branded site with mentoring from Kay.

NovaLash’s head trainer for the UK Zoe Nichols has released a book, “Lash Lessons: the Best Mistakes I Made in my Eyelash Extension Career”. The book shares real-world advice, which you can carry over into your professional beauty practice.

Robomanicures and avant-garde acrylic toenails – is this the future of beauty treatments?

Nine futuristic beauty trends were revealed in The Future 100 report by analyst Wunderman Thompson.

Robomanicures, an express manicure service delivered by robots, are predicted to reach a value of £ 8.51 billion by 2027.

Meta beauty is also set to trend as gaming systems introduce virtual beauty and real-world cosmetics to their realms.

The demise of “normal” beauty will be recorded as absurdist makeovers rise, with consumers leaning towards more inclusive brands, and looking to experiment more with avant-garde looks such as acrylic toenails.

Mineral and acidic skincare are both also beginning to trend, as well as micro-dosing with skincare. Consumers are also reaching for new beauty labels that display sustainability of production methods, as well as adaptive packaging to accommodate users who have disabilities.

Black Skin Directory launches skin of colour education platform for beauty professionals

The Black Skin Directory (BSD), the platform led by aesthetic therapist and PB London speaker Dija Ayodele, has launched an education platform for beauty professionals which will provide accredited knowledge about managing and treating skin of colour within their practice. This new programme covers a breadth of subjects including the anatomy and physiology of skin of colour and managing common cosmetic and cultural concerns.

The platform also hosts a library of educational articles and signposts resources to enhance learning. Sign up at training.blackskindirectory.com

British Beauty Council and No7 launch skincare education programme for influencers

No 7 has partnered with the British Beauty Council to launch an education programme for influencers, with the aim of reducing misinformation within the industry. The Science of Skincare education modules will be led by industry experts to give consumers confidence that the information they discover about beauty products from influencers is well informed and knowledgeable.

Creators will learn about the science of skin and different ingredients to help them communicate beauty information that is factual and correct.

News in brief

Harper Grace International held its first Wellness event in London to mark the launch of the HGI Wellness Series. The event saw speakers provide information on the impact of CBD and sleep on wellbeing, and attendees experienced a CBD & Sleep treatment.

Million Dollar Facial has partnered with the British Beauty Council as one of its newest patrons. Million Dollar Facial will work closely with the council to help make positive changes in the industry. Founder Jenna Irwin said: “Maintaining standards and ethics have always been a huge part of the brand and we couldn’t be happier to be involved.”

Leicester College has been awarded £250,000 from the Office for Students to support higher education in creative industries, including beauty and media make-up. Kully Sandhu, vice principal of adult and higher education, said the funding would help ensure students are work-ready.

Marine skincare brand Ishga has supported the Marine Conservation Society through its sales, pledging 1.5% of sales from Black Friday weekend and throughout December to support its work protecting the oceans. Ishga plans to develop a long-term partnership to support their vital work to protect our seas.

Gharieni has appointed Florentina Matei as strategic business development manager. She will execute strategy for new market segmentation, supporting the sales team. Matei previously held executive positions in medical esthetics, technologies, and skincare.

Fresha acquires Bookwell and launches online store functionality

Beauty and wellness booking platform Fresha has acquired Australian spa and salon booking platform Bookwell

Bookwell launched in 2017 to help beauty professionals fill empty appointments slots, with more than 5,000 salons signed up to the platform.

“By helping beauty and wellness businesses grow sales with tools to facilitate online payments, self-service bookings and automated marketing, Fresha provides the perfect opportunity to enhance Bookwell’s offering,” said Bookwell founder Matt Dyer.

Fresha has also launched an online store feature, with partner salons able to sell products and receive payment through the platform without needing to set up a separate e-commerce site.

“The potential for online retail in the beauty and wellness industry is huge,” said Fresha chief executive and founder William Zeqiri. “We’ve made it easy to create a store. It means salon and spas have everything in one place, which simplifies their business lives

Louella Belle makes first foray into skincare distribution with Evolve

Hertfordshire-based vegan skincare brand Evolve has appointed Louella Belle to handle its UK distribution, making it the first skincare brand on Louella Belle’s books.

Evolve aims to make products that are healthier, greener, and kinder to consumers and the planet.

Jamie Crook, joint chief executive of Louella Belle said: “Over the years, although we wanted to get into the skincare category, we never came across the right brand that fitted our ethos.

“I’m pleased to say the waiting has paid off and we couldn’t be happier with Evolve as our first foray into the skincare category.”

Evolve founder Laura Rudoe added: “We are thrilled to be working with Louella Belle… Having a distributor will allow us to reach a wider audience.”

The Beauty Directors Club holds fourth bootcamp in Malta

More than 50 beauty professionals travelled to Malta on January 30–31 for a two-day conference, hosted by Susan Routledge and her Beauty Directors Club.

Each day saw four workshops take place, with business speakers including performance coach Jean-Pierre De Villiers and financial growth strategist Jo Simpson sharing tips on social media, marketing, profit building and accounts.

“We had… some of the biggest and best international business minds in the most inspiring, beautiful sunshine location,” said Routledge.

“The feedback has been amazing and everyone [who came] wants to attend the event again next year. Plans are already underway.”

Diary dates

// March 7–8 Professional Beauty GCC Festival Arena, Dubai The biggest industry event in Dubai includes live stages and workshops. +971 (0) 4375 7300 professionalbauty.ae

// April 3 World Spa & Wellness Awards London Prestigious awards ceremony celebrating the best spa operations across the globe. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/wswawards

// April 3–4 World Spa & Wellness Convention London ExCeL London The essential conference for international spa owners and hoteliers looking to network. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/wswlondon

// April 3–5 Professional Beauty London ExCeL London The show is back as a two-day physical event with product launches and education, followed by a one-day online event. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

// April 28–May 2 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Fairground District, Bologna, Italy Exhibition with separate dates for packaging, perfume, and beauty. +39 02 796420 cosmoprof.com

// May 6–8 Beauty Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf Fair for cosmetics, nails, and spa. +49 211 4560 7602 beauty-dusseldorf.com

Gelida Medica launches into the UK with wellness bio-technology devices

Aesthetic device specialist Gelida Medica is launching into the UK in April with hopes to become a staple in UK skin clinics.

The company will be launching six wellness bio-technology devices into the market – fat freezing Waves21, electrical muscle stimulation device IO S21; cryolipolysis machine Cryo21; non-surgical plasma device Touch Skin; electric current ITech21; and Easy 21 –a treatment device that focuses on the chakras and balancing the body.

Co-founder Susan Mills said: “I set up Gelida Medica with my business partner Jade Commery in 2021. Now more than ever, there is such a need for equipment that not only delivers the best results but goes even further in assisting the body to repair itself. I’m so excited to be introducing Gelida Medica to the UK market, along with these incredible devices.”

The company is exhibiting at Professional Beauty London at ExCeL on April 3–4 and is sponsoring the Advanced Treatment Zone. Find out more about what the brand will be exhibiting on page 56.

Phorest Growth Fund to give £100,000 financial support to struggling salons

Software supplier Phorest is launching the Phorest Growth Fund in March, which will give financial help to salons struggling to secure funding to level up their business.

The £100,000 fund will be distributed on a case-by-case basis to Phorest accounts that have been unable to secure funding or loans elsewhere to facilitate the next phase of their business growth.

Chief executive Ronan Perceval said: “Phorest was literally born on the salon floor – we know what it’s like to be at the heart of a business that is striving for excellence, but we are also acutely aware of the challenges facing the industry when it comes to growing that business. We established the Phorest Growth Fund to give back to the community that has given us so much.”

This fund will be available to Phorest accounts across the globe. Salons can submit an application on the Phorest website.

Lumenis announces Children’s Burns Trust as its 2022 charity of choice

Lumenis has partnered with the Children’s Burns Trust – which provides rehabilitation support for burned children and their families.

The brand hopes to raise as much money as possible for the charity this year through a series of fundraising events.

Lumenis, which provides leading laser scar treatments, will be hosting several sponsored sporting events, as well as a social event, with details to be announced soon.

About

This article appears in the March 2022 Issue of Professional Beauty


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With many salons struggling financially and being turned down for grants, some are making staff self-employed. Things need to change, writes Hellen Ward

COPIED
This article appears in the March 2022 Issue of Professional Beauty