NEW Season NAILS

FRENCH REVOLUTION

“More and more people are asking for traditional pink and white French manicure in salon again after a period of absence,” says Jenni Draper, session manicurist and creative manager at distributor Louella Belle. However, the trend has taken a playful turn for SS20. Expect to see more double-tipped French manicures in clashing colours, ultra fine ‘micro tips’ and alternating hues on different nails. “There are so many options, but I think we’ll be seeing a lot of those deep smile lines again,” adds Draper.

At Yuhan Wang’s SS20 London Fashion Week (LFW) show, The Gel Bottle team presented a twist on the traditional French manicure by scalloping the tips of the nails, while backstage at Halpern, session tech Marian Newman created transparent stiletto nails with a reverse French in emerald and soft pinks. “The bolder clients might opt for the reverse French with foiling instead of polish to add a metallic effect to the look,” says CND education ambassador, Victoria Trafford. “The traditional French Manicure will always be a staple trend, but the reverse French is set to take hold this spring.”

Neon tips or macaron pastels are set to be popular, and a neutral or clear base provides the perfect platform for colours to pop - ideal for those looking to experiment with a touch of colour. “The look has grown in popularity over the past few months and is set to be very big,” says Salon System nail artist Julie Anne Larivière. “This year is all about standing out from the crowd and making everything your own.”

SHEER BRILLIANCE

Barely there nails are not going anywhere. However, for SS20, they’re now being paired with embellishments or providing a clear canvas for artistic and geometric shapes to pop.

“Over the years we have noticed that nude or almost clear nails have become more and more popular, especially on the runways,” says Larivière. While pared-back bases are here to stay, adorning them with maximalist embellishments will be key this season. “We are now adding a bit of a pop to a clear mani,” says Larivière. “Encapsulating sequins, or adding chunky glitters rhinestones and jewels to clear, glossy nails is all the rage for the summer.”

At Paula Knorr’s LFW SS20 show, gold foil was encrusted into clear gel polish, whereas other designs saw delicate gemstones atop long clear acrylics. Among the looks at Julien Macdonald, Marian Newman created a glittering wash on the nails, before the tips were embellished with a string of diamantés; while at Fyodor Golan, sheer pink nails were finished with a single pearl accent at the base.

Sparkles aside, negative space nails will also be big news for SS20. “Geometric patterns and minimalistic negative space will be a trend you will definitely want to keep an eye out for,” says Larivière. Experiment with abstract, modern art-inspired patterns that expose the bare nail underneath. As the effects can be dialled up or down, the trend is ideal for less adventurous clients who want to try something different or update their regular neutral manicure with an accent nail.

WILD THING

Not for the faint-hearted, classic animal prints and exotic motifs are reinvented in electric hues. “Bold patterns are going to be big for spring and we’ll start to see some tropical prints in there too in terms of birds and flowers - these designs will work best with bold colours, giving clients a standout look, hot off the catwalk,” says Samantha Birkett-Leigh, CND education ambassador and session tech.

Think your usual leopard print, but reimagined in acidic yellow, or floral motifs on thorn-like extensions, as created by CND for The Blonds New York Fashion Week SS20 show. At Libertine, jungle tigers were contrasted on an electric blue base, and 3D flowers bloomed upwards and outwards from the fingertips.

Try experimenting with clashing animal prints on each nail and in different colour ways. “This trend was definitely the biggest one of Summer 2019 and it is still going strong into 2020,” says Larivière. “But once again, we are making it bolder, brighter, funkier.” And as for your more tame clients? “Cow print will also stay on trend for a while alongside the usual leopard and zebra prints,” she says.

Florals will also be popular, but this time there’s no middle ground - it’s either going to be full-out floral or barely there, says Trafford. “To create the barely there floral, we’ll see incredibly sheer or clear shades being used for the base, with simple flowers such as white daisies drawn on,” she adds.

NOSTALGIA NAILS

Geometric nail art has been gaining popularity year after year, but this summer we are going back in time with it. “People are getting more and more nostalgic about the ’80s and ’90s, especially since the start of the new decade,” says Larivière. “It is all about reliving those decades through nail art.”

Fans of funkier patterns will be pleased to hear that retro flashback manicures are set to stay. The trend will be imagined in mix-and-match graphic patterns. “We are talking bold and bright colours with zigzags and shapes,” she says. “From Fresh Prince of Bel Air graffiti to Saved By The Bell geometric patterns - the bolder the better for this throwback trend,” she says.

Look to House of Holland, where the LFW SS20 show saw ’90s rave-inspired glitter in abundance on the eyes and reflected in the nails too. Playful pastels were seen at Olivia Rubin, with pick-and-mix neopolitan colours painted on each nail, while at Charlotte Knowles, The Gel Bottle team layered multiple colours and filed them down to create patterns reminiscent of lava lamps.

WHAT’S FALLING OUT OF FASHION?

“Nowadays, there aren’t many trends that fall out of fashion as such anymore,” says Larivière. “They evolve rather than disappear altogether, and what was popular last year remains popular but in a different way.”

Marble nails

“Last year, tie-dye marble nails were very trendy, but this year it is softer marble effects rather than the bold neon marble we were seeing,” says Larivière.

Tortoise shell

“The tortoise shell was great at the time, but it’s been done to death,” says Draper. Instead, turn to organic textures, such as clam shell effects paired with opalescent hues.

Holographic nails

“I think we’ll start to see holgraphic nails dropping off,” says Trafford. “Instead, people will be opting for subtler designs that are more delicate and daintier.”

Gelish and Morgan Taylor

The Gelish and Morgan Taylor Editor’s Picks Collection features soft pinks and neutrals, available in Gelish Soak-Off Gel Polish, Morgan Taylor Nail Lacquer, and Gelish Dip Powder. Colours include Barely Buff, a pale pink crème; Call My Blush, a sheer pink; On Cloud Nine, a peachy pink; Going Vogue, an antique rose; It’s Your Mauve, a mauve crème; and I Speak Chic, a taupe crème. Trade: £19.99 per Gelish gel-polish; £4.95 per Morgan Taylor polish 01708 465900 for Gelish (The Georgie Smedley Group) 020 8238 6300 for Morgan Taylor (Louella Belle) nailharmonyuk.co.uklouellabelle.co.uk

Nailit

Recreate the trends with the latest nail collections

Artistic Nail Design

The new Beaute’ in Bloom collection is inspired by flowers in bloom. The collection includes Peek-A-Bloom, a light iridescent pearl; Iris You Were Mine, a light purple crème; You Grow Girl!, a deep pink pearl; Hold Me On A Petal-stal, a light purple grey; The Pink In Her Cheeks, a soft pink crème; and Beauty And The Buds, a nude crème. All shades are available in Colour Gloss Soak Off Gel, Colour Revolution Reactive Nail Lacquer and Perfect Dip Powders. Trade: Colour Gloss Soak Off Gel, £16,95, Colour Revolution Reactive Nail Lacquer, £5.95 and Perfect Dip, £12.95 020 8238 6300 (Louella Belle) louellabelle.co.uk

CND

The English Garden collection features soft pastel shades and elegant neutrals, inspired by springtime florals. It’s available in both Vinylux long-wear polish and Shellac gel-polish. Shades include Flowerbed Folly, a modern, dark neutral; Soft Peony, a warm creamy pink; Lady Lilly, a classic, semi-sheer, sugary white; Kiss from a Rose, a rich bubblegum pink; Carnation Bliss, a soft cool-toned pink; and Magical Topiary, a pastel mint green. Trade: CND Shellac £13.95 Vinylux Polish £4.95 0333 000 7000 (Sweet Squared) sweetsquared.com

Astonishing Nails

Inspired by the colours of Paris, the pastel shades in La Jolie Paris Gelosophy collection are perfect for updating your clients’ French manicure. The offering includes Fleurir, a soft lilac; Macaron, a muted blue; La Ville De L’Amour, a peachy coral; and Romance, a sparkling copper that is intended to evoke the feeling of the Eiffel Tower at night. Trade: £14.81 each, or £59.24 for the whole collection, including base and top coats. 07792 412 880 (Staffordshire Nail Academy) astonishing-nails.co.uk

Gellux

The mix of brights, pastels and neutrals in Gellux’s Flower Power collection tick all the boxes for SS20 trends. Inspired by bohemian florals, colours range from baby pink Daisy Chain, neutral shimmer Oopsie Daisy, beige Hippie Heaven and neutral peach Life’s A Breeze, through to bright red Proper Poppy, coral Best Buds, crimson Bizzie Lizzie and lilac Watch Me Bloom.

Trade: £11.95 020 8573 9907 (Salon System) salonsystem.com

LCN

LCN’s Smoothie and Wild Desert collections offer something for every one of your clients. Smoothie features a range of soft hues, from the jade green Frosted Matcha Tea to the creamy Peach Iced Tea. Meanwhile, Wild Desert features natural and vibrant hues such as Sandstorm, a delicate brown, through to Scorpion Sting, a fiery summer red, inspired by Californian summers. All shades are available in Recolution UV-Colour Polish, Nail Polish and Colour Gels.

Trade: Nail Polish, £2.85, Colour Gels, £10.20, Recolution UV-Colour Polish, £14.20 01256 840 840 lcnuk.co.uk

Jessica

Summer festivals and flower crowns inspire the free-spirited and bohemian hues in The Indie Fest collection. Colours include a duck egg blue (Headliner), a sunset pink (Centre Stage), a bronze shimmer (Desert Dust), a neutral sand with red glitter (Bestie), a dusky pink crème (Dream Catcher) and a peach pink (Petal Power).

Trade: £5.50 per Custom Color; £6.85 per Midi Custom Colour; £17.75 per Geleration gel-polish 0345 217 1360 (Gerrard International) jessica-nails.co.uk

NSI

The Jazz Collection brings the glitz and glamour of the 1920s to your clients’ fingertips. Shades include Jitterbug, a pastel lilac; Bathtub Gin, a shimmering pearl; Bee’s Knees, a baby pink; Golden Glamour, a golden glitter; Roaring 20s, a glittering cobalt blue; and Speakeasy, a vibrant turquoise.

Trade: £15.40 0800 881 8469 nsinails.co.uk