ask the EXPERTS

What are the potential dangers of plasma treatments and how can I avoid them?

While plasma can deliver a wide range of treatments from skin tag removal to blepharoplasty, its application needs a professional approach to ensure client safety.

The most common plasma device used is the plasma pen. Though a relatively cheap technology, diligence must be applied in the purchasing decision. Ensure the equipment meets the relevant CE certification and the supplier can provide a certificate of compliance of quality assurance.

A major factor for successful plasma treatments is a stable and consistent delivery of the plasma arc. Too strong and the dermal layer can be broken, with the risk of permanent damage; too weak and results will be poor. Always choose a device with a proven track record, a brand with a history of expertise, and a supplier who can testify to its safety and efficacy.

Good providers will tell you that at least 30% of the treatment happens away from the couch. A comprehensive consultation should be undertaken at least seven days prior to treatment and include a patch test. Examples of specific contraindications are autoimmune issues, diabetes, pacemakers and keloid scarring. Plasma may also increase the chance of hyperpigmentation, especially in darker skin types.

Misuse of plasma may cause permanent damage, so never treat an indication unless you are qualified to do so, have been certified as competent, have undergone accredited training from a qualified professional and are insured to do so.

The key function of a plasma pen treatment is sublimation, a vaporising of the epidermis into a gas. Instantly, the effect leaves a multiple micro-millimetre-wide dot and crust on the epidermis. While superficial, this may take four to 10 days to heal. Restrict the areas to be treated at each session, as too much work will not heal efficiently and results will be compromised. When treating the eye area, natural swelling will occur and may last up to seven days.

The client should be given comprehensive aftercare advice and the correct medicated healing creams. Encourage them to provide photographic evidence of their healing progress for your perusal, and we always suggest a follow up “exit consultation” eight weeks later.

Kim Wuestehube is global master trainer of ACCOR Cosmetic Corrector, which is distributed by The Smart Group. Visit the brand at Professional Beauty London on stand L41.

Most of this month’s experts are speakers at Professional Beauty London at ExCeL on March 29-30. To book any live stage or seminar session for just £5 (£1 for students and lecturers) visit professionalbeauty.co.uk/seminars

How can I promote pro-ageing rather than anti-ageing in my salon?

As a business, you need to look at ways to support your clients to take care of their body, face and emotional wellbeing in the most natural and rewarding way. This can include lifestyle advice, health and wellness tips, and completely rewriting your treatment and therapy menus.

I am dealing with all of these issues of ageing myself, while simultaneously witnessing the struggles and confusion of my clients, many of whom talk about themselves in negative terms regarding their looks and how they are ageing.

We live in a culture that worships youth and views ageing as a failure. But if we learn to embrace our emerging selves, we can age wonderfully well - across all aspects, including our face and body, our thoughts and emotions, and our inner selves.

At my upcoming talk at Professional Beauty London, I will be sharing with therapists a new perspective on ageing and giving them guidance about how to support their clients to stay positive, fit, beautiful and confident. My talk will also address a shift in the therapist’s role, from passive provider of creams and procedures to active adviser, much beyond a simple skincare routine. It challenges therapists towards self-growth and expansion of their knowledge that must include not only physical, but also emotional and mental wellbeing.

Beata Aleksandrowicz is the founder of The Aleksandrowicz System and will be speaking in the “How to…” seminar programme at PB London on Sunday, March 29, at 11am.

I’m thinking about adding mesotherapy to my treatment menu, what do I need to know?

Mesotherapy gives you back that glow that we love in our youth. People still love toxin and filler of course, but that doesn’t help you with your skin. Mesotherapy is 100% about skin health.

These superficial injections are the best because they provide hydration to the skin. Look at the French, for example. Many of them don’t do facials, but have mesotherapy on a regular basis and it works better as it is “in” the skin, rather than just sitting on the complexion surface.

Some people are slightly nervous about using a syringe, but you can use a gun, which is becoming more popular. Another alternative is electricity perforation, which uses a positive electric current to push the product in. It won’t get it anywhere near as deep as it would with a syringe, but it’ll get it close enough to where the growth factors are, kick-starting them to help restore the skin naturally.

The most important thing, and this is the trouble we have in the UK, is that the mesotherapy cocktail has to be registered and it has to be a medical device. Make sure that any mesotherapy brand you’re considering working with has the clinical trials, white papers, backstory, evidence and histology - and if they don’t have those, then walk away.

Andrew Hansford, Fillmed lead skin quality expert and trainer, will be speaking at on the Advanced Treatments Live Stage at PB London on Sunday, March 29, at 11am.

I’m short on time. Should I outsource the social media for my salon or spa?

The pressure to create content and images, and to manage social scheduling and engagement, can be overwhelming. If you’re too busy running the business, then it’s time for someone else to do it for you so you don’t lose ground to competitors. To decide whether you should go internal or external, you need to determine whether you have internal staff resources available to help solve the problem?

If your social media budget is under £100 a month, find a way to keep it internal. You can offer a team member extra responsibility, training and possibly an incentive for success.

If sourcing help internally isn’t an option, then you’ll need to define the available budget as x% of what revenue social should generate for your business. If your budget is between £100-£300 per month, then find a virtual assistant with social media skills on an hourly rate. If your budget is between £300-£600 per month, then a small local start-up agency should be able to help. However, if your budget is above £600 per month, you can engage larger, experienced agencies like Fix Our Social, for example.

If you go with an external solution, then let them pitch you the plan. Avoid telling them what you think you need and allow them to understand your business objectives fully. Either way, ensure you create a tight brief around outcomes, content types, with no approval processes, and measures of success. You need a frictionless process and full trust in whoever is going to help.

Simon Hutchings is co-founder of FixOurSocial Social Media Management and will be speaking at Professional Beauty London on the Digital Skills Stage on Sunday, March 29, at 1pm.

How can I improve customer loyalty?

Having clients that come in for one service is a risky business because they may be going somewhere else for different things - so you’re not drilling down to exactly what that client needs. They can come in for years for that one service, but it only takes someone to buy them a gift voucher for somewhere else, or for someone to open up around the corner with a fantastic offer, and they will go elsewhere. Then they’ve got the embarrassment of coming back.

However, if you have a client who comes in for two services, there’s a 75% chance that you’re going to keep them loyal. For three services, it’s 85%, and four services it’s 95%. So, look at what you can introduce clients to, rather than discounting.

For example, if someone comes in for their nails regularly, then find something you can offer them as a treat, which is either going to be of higher value to them or take them to another part of the salon. Because if you’ve got someone just sitting at a nail desk every time, they’re not seeing anything else of your great business.

For example, adding an eyebrow wax, which costs practically zero and takes a small amount of time, is worth £10 or £15 to that client. It’s also getting them to a different part of the salon and introducing them to a new service that they’re likely to carry on having.

Susan Routledge is a salon owner and business coach and will be speaking on the Business Skills seminar programme at PB London on Sunday, March 29, at 2pm.

What type of vitamin C offering should I add to my salon?

This skincare ingredient has been trending because it provides protection against free-radicals and offers intense and instant brightening. Because it’s very well tolerated and accepted by most skins, if you’re not offering some kind of vitamin C, you’re missing out.

Regardless of your client’s skin condition or age, everyone is seeking brighter, healthier skin and that is why it is such a popular ingredient.

One of the great factors with vitamin C is that it is readily available, which makes it very effective. However, it is broken down and oxidises quite quickly, which means it then won’t be used up by the skin. Some products may have a higher percentage of vitamin C; however, if it isn’t stable, that will limit how much it can work within the skin.

Dermalogica uses two ultra-stable forms of vitamin C, and in our clinical studies it was shown to be three times more stable than a leading competitor. It was also shown to be three times more bio-available, so it can actually be used up by the skin. Therefore, if you’re adding a vitamin C range to your business, you should seek products that have stable forms of vitamin C to deliver results.

Janelle Couto is education training manager at Dermalogica. See Dermalogica’s new BioLumin Vitamin C Eye Serum at PB London on stand F5.

What are the benefits of adding henna to my treatment menu?

The cosmetics market is growing at a rapid pace and every so often new and improved versions of treatments arise. I believe henna dye has revolutionised the approach to semi-permanent eyebrow colouring. Not only do I love this treatment myself, but I also do it on a daily basis for my clients.

Classic lash and brow tints usually have a limited number of colours and in many of the varieties available on the market, a synthetic and hydrogen peroxide base is required to create the mixture, which can weaken eyebrow hairs.

Henna dyes are usually more natural and suitable for all skin types, including sensitive. Different colours can be mixed together to achieve a bespoke colour for the client. Good formulations dye not only the hair, but also the skin, creating a tattoo effect last can last from five to two weeks.

Look for a training provider that teaches comprehensive eyebrow styling, including eyebrow geometry and mapping. As a brow stylist, you will need to make very precise measurements, including drawing the perfect shape, width and length of the eyebrows, matched to the oval of the client’s face to create a personalised treatment for each client.

Monika Kupien is master educator and brand ambassador at Henna Couture, distributed by The Georgie Smedley Group. See Kupien on the Make-up, Lashes and Brows main stage on Sunday, March 29, at 11am.

Most of this month’s experts are speakers at Professional Beauty London at ExCeL on March 29-30. To book any live stage or seminar session for just £5 (£1 for students and lecturers) visitprofessionalbeauty.co.uk/seminars