GOLDEN rules

Colour theory can help tanning artists to achieve flawless, naturallooking results. Ellen Cummings gets the expert lowdown on choosing the right shades, customising treatments and maintaining a perfect tan

Colour theory plays an important role in spray tanning, helping artists select the right base to neutralise undertones and avoid unwanted hues.

Sam Milne, a UK and destination spray tan artist based in Scotland and owner of Brown Sugar by Sam Milne, has perfected the art of VIP and bridal tanning, working with high-profile clients like pop princess Sabrina Carpenter, fashion designer Victoria Beckham and television personality Sam Faiers.

“Choosing the correct base, such as olive, violet or brown, ensures the tan complements the client’s natural undertones rather than clashing with them,” Milne explains. “It also prevents overdevelopment and uneven fading, leading to a more even and naturallooking result.”

The key to a seamless tan is understanding skin undertones:

• Warm undertones (golden, peachy or yellow) can oversaturate, so olive or violet-based solutions help balance them.

• Cool undertones (pink, red or blue) can turn ashy, making brown or warm-based tans the ideal choice to add warmth.

• Neutral undertones can usually wear most tan shades well, ensuring versatility in product selection.

Choosing the right tanning solution

Determining a client’s undertone is a vital step in achieving a flawless tan. Milne advises checking wrist veins in good lighting: “If they look green, they’re warm-toned; if they’re blue or purple, they’re cool-toned; and if it’s a mix, they’re neutral.”

Observing how the skin reacts to the sun can also help – warm tones tan easily, cool tones tend to burn, and neutral tones do a bit of both.

The base colour of a tanning solution plays a defining role in achieving a natural effect. “Olive-based tans neutralise warm or yellow undertones to prevent an orange look, while violet-based solutions counteract cool tones to stop the skin from looking ashy. Brown bases work well for neutral undertones, enhancing warmth without going overboard. The best tans are the ones people don’t notice,” Milne says.

A common mistake is selecting a shade purely based on depth rather than compatibility with the skin tone.

“So many people ask for the darkest shade, expecting to look ultra-bronzed, but if it doesn’t suit their skin tone, it won’t look natural. It’s the same with self-tanners – choose what complements your skin rather than just going for the darkest option.”

Customising tans for every client

Tailoring the application method is key, particularly for clients with very fair or deep skin tones. Milne explains, “A lot of it comes down to timing. Leaving the solution on for less time creates a softer glow, rather than using a light solution for eight hours. Understanding what you’re working with is crucial – most tans can be customised based on how long they are left to develop.”

For mature skin or clients with redness and pigmentation, adjusting the technique ensures an even result. “Not modifying your approach can cause white lines on knees and elbows,” Milne warns. “Always adjust your client’s positioning to allow even distribution and use blending brushes or mitts where needed.”

Hydration is another key factor, particularly for mature skin. “I always use a hydration spray before tanning to help the skin absorb the solution evenly,” Milne explains. “For clients with pigmentation, I opt for a clear solution with no heavy bronzers and sometimes apply a light second coat on affected areas to even out the skin tone.”

When tanning clients with redness, such as rosacea or eczema, a targeted approach is best. “I apply a nourishing moisturiser to red or dry areas as a barrier, preventing excessive absorption in problem areas. This is particularly helpful for clients with psoriasis or eczema.”

Troubleshooting and aftercare

One of the most common mistakes in spray tanning is using the wrong base for a client’s skin tone. Milne says, “It’s not one-size-fits-all. Choose a tan that will suit your specific client. If you’re unsure, always start lighter, assess the results, and gather feedback with photos.”

Aftercare is just as important as the application itself. “A good tan is down to good prep and aftercare. Always follow the advice given by your tan artist. Stay hydrated and avoid harsh soaps or body products – especially mineral and oilbased products – as they can strip the tan prematurely.”

Maintaining hydration is also crucial for longevity. “Drinking lots of water and moisturising daily with a fast-absorbing lotion rather than heavy body creams helps prolong the tan’s natural tone,” explains Milne. “This allows the tan to fade seamlessly over time, blending with the client’s skin tone rather than wearing off in patches.”

With professional tanning evolving rapidly, understanding colour theory and tailoring solutions for different skin tones has never been more important. By applying these expert techniques, spray tan artists can ensure every client walks away with a flawless, confidence-boosting glow.