Professional Beauty
Professional Beauty


13 MIN READ TIME

NEWS

New report shows key causes of skills and recruitment crisis in beauty industry

The beauty industry is facing a skills and recruitment crisis, according to a new report commissioned by the National Hair and Beauty Federation.

The report, “Careers at the cutting edge: tackling the skills shortage in the hair and beauty sector”, identified three broad categories to address when tackling the skills crisis: qualifications and training, recruitment and retention and financial pressures.

Over half of all hair and beauty businesses in England, Wales and Northern Ireland currently have unfilled vacancies, with job vacancies across the UK hitting 1.3 million in January 2022.

69% of respondents said recruitment had been “severely hindered” by the pandemic, with demands for higher wages and a better work-life balance contributing to ‘The Great Resignation’.

Obstacles standing in the way of business growth from a financial aspect include the current challenging economic conditions, wanting to stay below the VAT threshold and risk of being subject to more regulations.

Both of the traditional paths into the beauty sector (further education and apprenticeships) are facing challenges, with the number of apprentices in England more than halving from 2016/17 to 2019/20, compared to other industries, which saw an average drop of just over 20%.

When it came to the biggest threats to apprenticeships, almost half of the businesses stated that lack of financial support from the Government was a key issue. Other threats included the rise in short courses and insufficient interest because of the pandemic.

60% would be more likely to take on apprentices if the Government introduced further financial aid. A £3,000 incentive would cost the Government £9 million a year per 1,000 apprenticeships, while funding the minimum wage gap for 19–20-year-olds would cost £2.1m per year per 1,000 apprentices.

The report was conducted for NHBF by Pragmatix Advisory.

Licensing for aesthetics to become law as Health and Care Bill gets Royal Assent

An Act of Parliament which will give the Government power to introduce a national licensing scheme for aesthetics has been given Royal Assent, meaning it will be enacted into law.

Included in the Health and Care Bill was an amendment that said that a mandated licensing regime should be put in place for the more invasive cosmetic treatments.

The amendment will also make it an offence for someone to practise invasive cosmetic treatments without a licence and to practise from unlicensed premises.

Now the that the bill has been passed, the scope and details will be determined after a public consultation, but it is expected that this will make it mandatory to hold a licence in order to legally administer injectable treatments including Botox or fillers.

The licensing scheme will introduce consistent standards that individuals carrying out certain non-surgical cosmetic procedures will have to meet, as well as hygiene and safety standards for premises.

The Government described the amendment as “the next step on the road to effective regulation of non-surgical cosmetic procedures (and hair restoration surgery) in England”.

Professor David Sines, executive chair of the JCCP, commented, “The Government’s decision to introduce a licensing scheme to regulate the administration of the more invasive aesthetic treatments is a welcome contribution to enhancing public protection and patient safety.

News in brief

The Spa at Carden in Cheshire has partnered with Spanish spa brand Germaine de Capuccini. Spa guests can now enjoy four new exclusive bespoke treatments including two results-driven facials, one body ritual and a treatment that offers elements of both face and body.

Advanced Esthetics Solutions has been awarded an Acquisition International 2022 Global Excellence Award in the category Leading Innovators in Medical Aesthetics Solutions – UK. The awards are an annual programme designed by the in-house research team at AI Global Media to recognise companies and individuals with a sustained outstanding performance.

The new Brow HQ flagship salon opened on April 28 in Chester and offers a range of traditional and new beauty treatments including microblading, brow lamination, lip blush treatments and facials. The salon will also be home to the new Brow HQ Academy, which will be run by owner Leisa Roberts.

Lash Perfect has launched a new website with some new and improved features. It now offers Facebook and Google login, one-step checkout, new and improved search and filtering, as well as order tracking functionality and Apple Pay compatability.

Lash and beauty expert Jenny Hodgson has been appointed general manager of Lashus, the lash lift brand distributed by Sweet Squared.

With over 12 years in the industry, Hodgson will work on new product development and strategy to grow the Lashus brand in the UK and internationally.

Sustainability, veganism and simplified routines driving beauty industry growth

A new study by Kantar revealed how Covid-19 pandemic lockdowns and the related work-from-home culture shift have transformed the beauty market.

The data shows a decrease in the weekly use of cosmetics in every market globally, with weekly usage down an average of 28% versus pre-pandemic levels and down 31% vs five years ago, as women choose simpler routines.

Analysing the buying habits of more than 300,00 people, the study also identified that more consumers are buying fewer products but are choosing higher quality, longer-lasting and easy-to-apply options.

The increase in premium beauty product usage has helped the market recover to pre-pandemic levels of revenue.

Consumers purchasing naturally produced ingredients in face and body products grew from, on average, 18% of sales in 2017 to 24% of sales in 2021.

Ashley Kang, global beauty director at Kantar, said “In these economically challenging times, it’s not that consumer won’t spend, but rather they will spend more wisely, making the most out of their spending power, whether that be to make their life simpler, to address their values or to binge on their aspiration.”

41% of beauty and hair businesses now busy, following difficult winter period

Beauty and hair businesses are seeing a slight improvement in trade, with 41% reporting being either busy or steady, up from just 13% in January, according to the National Hair & Beauty Federation’s (NHBF) latest State of the Industry survey.

44% of businesses that took part in the quarterly survey are currently breaking even, with 30% making a small or good profit, up from just 19% in January.

Meanwhile, 27% are either making small or substantial loss, down from 40%.

The number of businesses relying on external support has reduced from 81% to 58%.

Some 43% have raised their prices over the last three months, with a further 58% set to do so over the next three months.

Confidence has increased, with 57% of businesses now confident of their survival (up from 40% in January).

Ageism in beauty: 74% of older people still feel neglected by industry

Despite the beauty industry’s progress on diversity, older people are still being neglected according to research by creative agency Cult.

The Age of Beauty research project, in collaboration with The Diversity Standards Collective, surveyed people aged over 35 (the majority aged 50-plus) and found that 74% felt the beauty industry still doesn’t offer positive or empowering representations of their age.

Only 13% considered the term “anti-ageing” to be a positive product descriptor.

65% said the beauty industry doesn’t represent their age group accurately, with just 22% responding with any positive sentiment when asked about how the beauty industry’s representation of their age group made them feel.

According to the report, when older people do feature, they often feel “in between”, unable to relate to the “glamour models” or to those who are “colourfully quirky... to compensate for our wrinkles”.

52% said skincare was the beauty category they couldn’t live without, followed by 30% who nominated make-up. Friends and family (39%) are the primary source of beauty inspiration for the age group, with social media and influencers (26%) second.

The research also discussed gender bias within the industry, with respondents saying older men are portrayed as “handsome” and aren’t subjected to the same pressures to “defy” ageing as women.

A third of Brits have never cleaned their beauty tools

31% of people in the UK have never cleaned their beauty tools, even though 48% have used the same beauty tools for years.

New research by spa group Champneys, in collaboration with microbiologist Amy-May Pointer, surveyed 1,500 Brits to find out about how often people are cleaning their tools.

Beauty tools like eyelash curlers were found to be particularly dirty, with Pointer’s research revealing lash curlers can potentially contain mites which could lead to hair loss.

Surprisingly, 25% of the nation said they would rather buy a new beauty tool than clean their current one, which could be due to the fact that 26% said that they didn’t know how to clean their tools properly.

News in brief

Treatwell has announced Treatwell Pro, software to support improved functionality and the needs of salon professionals. The new software includes a digital diary, salon marketing, data insights, and ability to check stock, prices and payments.

Lynton will now offer delayed payment options to anyone who purchases one of the brand’s devices. Lynton is partnering with specialist lenders to offer three-month deferral plans on all products, enabling aesthetic practitioners to invest in business growth with minimal outlay.

Superdrug and Marie Curie have launched a new beauty initiative called Make Up for Me Time to help young people deal with bereavement. The initiative will start with a donation across cosmetic products online and in-store, with Superdrug looking to donate £70,000 to Marie Curie bereavement services.

Thérapie Clinic has opened its latest clinic in Canterbury, Kent, as it celebrates 20 years in business. The 3,000sq ft Canterbury clinic within the Whitefriars centre has four treatment rooms, managed by ten therapists offering services including laser hair removal and body sculpting.

The Gainsborough Bath Spa has created a new spa menu with Elemis. New treatments include the Frangipanni Indulgence Body Treatment, the 50-minute Lime Ginger Rejuvenate body treatment and the Elemis Pro-Glow Renewal Facial.

Kloris opens first flagship store in Carnaby, London

CBD brand Kloris has opened its first store at 13 Newburgh Street, in London’s Carnaby area.

Kloris’s products focus on sleep, stress, recovery, and active skincare – spanning supplements, topicals, spa experiences and more.

The store features a programme of experiences, events, treatments, and specialedition products, all with the goal of sharing knowledge on how natural formulations can help with issues like sleep and stress.

Brand founders Kim Smith, Pedram Mershahi and Matt McNeill said, “Products, experiences and education that have a positive impact on people’s wellness are why Kloris exists.

“We’ve been blessed to have an inspiring community of customers and supporters develop around us online since we started three years ago and being able to now connect with them in a physical space is a dream come true.”

Fresha ranks 43rd on Marketplace 100

Salon software brand Fresha has made its debut at number 43 on the Marketplace 100: 2022, a ranking of the world’s largest consumer-facing marketplace start-ups and private companies.

The list is compiled using data including gross merchandise value, app performance and website traffic.

Fresha founder and chief executive William Zeqiri said, “This ranking is a hugely important for Fresha. It confirms that we’re making significant impact on the global stage, and this is driven by a transformation in terms of how our partners have embraced our technology and are using Fresha to manage their businesses.”

Sothys apppoints Victoria Dello Ioio as UK sales director

French spa and skincare brand Sothys has welcomed Victoria Dello Ioio as its UK sales director as it aims to grow its position in the UK market. Dello Ioio brings 25 years of experience in the spa industry.

Christian Mas, owner of the Sothys Group, commented, “We are thrilled to have Victoria onboard at Sothys UK.

We will benefit from our mutual experiences so we can give Sothys the extra boost it needs in the market, and position the brand at the same level it stands in France and internationally.”

News in brief

Harrods’s fourth standalone beauty store, H Beauty Bristol, has opened in The Mall in Cribbs Causeway. The 25,300sq ft store, which opened on April 21, offers a selection of beauty products and services from 86 innovative brands.

The Global Wellness Institute has announced a new Respiratory Wellness Initiative, which will be a global effort between leading physicians, scientists and wellness business leaders. This follows the announcement of the theme of the 2022 Global Wellness Summit which is “Open Minds. Open Hearts.

Open for Business.” The summit will take place in Tel Aviv, Israel from October 31 to November 3.

According to research by Gophr, only six out of the UK’s top 100 beauty brands offer guaranteed same day delivery despite more than half of Gen-Z and millennial shoppers saying that they would buy more often from a beauty product brand or retailer if same-day delivery was available.

Lecenté has launched Signature Workshops, created to focus on the fundamental skills that benefit the nail professional. Each is delivered online in small groups and covers fine lines and detailing, custom blending, marble, foil and shimmer films, glitter and pigments.

Espa has partnered with the five-star hotel and resort Fairmont St Andrews spa and wellness. The resort has relaunched its spa facilities with new experiences and treatments from Espa, including locally themed massages, touch therapy and facial and relaxation therapies.

Diary dates

// June 11

Global Wellness Day Worldwide The annual event is a not-for-profit day that aims to raise awareness about living well and increasing motivation. +90 216 571 49 00 globalwellnessday.org

// June 19–21

Spa Life UK Convention Cotswolds Water Park Hotel, Gloucestershire The convention offers activities to help spa businesses grow. 01268 745892 spa-life.international

// July 3

Professional Beauty Awards Park Plaza Westminster Bridge, London The most prestigious and established awards scheme for the beauty, spa, nails and aesthetics markets. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards

// September 25–26

Professional Beauty North Manchester Central The largest beauty exhibition in the North, with launches and education. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/north

// October 9–10

Professional Beauty Business ExCeL London An exhibition for spa directors, salon owners and freelancers staged alongside Salon International. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/e/business

// November 6–7

Professional Beauty and HJ Ireland CityWest Dublin Discover new trends, pick up skills and network at Ireland’s leading show for beauty, spa and hair professionals. 0844 586 8195 professionalbeauty.ie

Dermologica launches Treatments for Ukraine initiative

On April 20, 100% of Dermalogica’s 30-minute treatment sales across all Dermalogica-owned stores, participating retail stores and participating skin centres in the UK and Ireland were donated to the Disasters Emergency Committee’s (DEC) Ukraine Humanitarian Appeal.

While the company had already made a monetary donation, it also wanted to bring the community together to raise funds. The company volunteered time, resources, and skills and invited customers to book a 30-minute treatment and donate a minimum of £30.

The money raised went towards supported charities including Save the Children, Oxfam, and the British Red Cross.

New UK distributor for Jane Iredale

Clever Beauty, part of the Healthxchange Group, has taken over distribution of Jane Iredale in the UK and Ireland.

The mineral make-up brand was previously distributed by IIAA.

Clever Beauty also sells brands including Dr Levy and Observ.

Healthxchange Group’s marketing and technology director Steven Joyce said, “Clever Beauty is a new supplier of premium skincare products, and we support our clients with spa and beauty consumables, product training and marketing support.”

Karen Hill, group operations and sales director at Healthxchange Group, added, “Jane Iredale’s performance clean brand with skin-loving formulas is recognised around the world – aperfect addition to our range of handpicked, tried-and-tested products.”

Phytomer celebrates 50th anniversary

French spa brand Phytomer is celebrating its 50th anniversary, having been founded by Jean Gédouin in 1972.

Gédouin launched the brand after experiencing the benefits of seawater baths and deciding to use the water by creating a range of skincare products to harness its powers.

Mathilde Gédouin-Lagarde, granddaughter of the founder and Phytomer’s deputy general manager, said, “Our passion for the sea has been passed down from father to son, and from son to daughter. All three generations share the same dream: to bring the sea to the city, to offer the benefits of the sea everywhere and to everyone.”

About

This article appears in the June 2022 Issue of Professional Beauty


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This article appears in the June 2022 Issue of Professional Beauty