As clients prep for AW22, we asked pro MUAs Lan Nguyen-Grealis – session MUA and organiser of PB’s Make-up Competitions – and Glow Up finalists James Mac and Nikkisecretx which skills and looks you should be brushing up on for ready for your clients.
Acceptable in the ’80s – and ’20s
Get your leg warmers ready as ’80s looks take over from the SS22 ’90s revival, thanks to the return of Netflix show Stranger Things.
“For colour lovers who want to challenge the brown tones, the ’80s are back, replacing the ’90s colour block with a pale pastel purple and lilac twist,” shares Mac.
For clients wanting to be a bit bolder with their make-up, Mac suggests incorporating ’80s colours as a first step by “creating a soft blown out colour eye – easily achievable for anyone wanting to explore more make-up this autumn”.
For those who prefer a brighter look, Nguyen-Grealis predicts ’80s colour palettes will be getting a 21st century twist with colourful liner, as she thinks, “We’ll be seeing colour graphic liner in blues, pinks and metallics.”
Down to earth
As the leaves turn to browns and neutral hues, make-up follows suit with natural earth tones set to make their return for the autumn months.
“The coming AW season is going to be a time of accepting seasonal colour tones and hues. Embrace browns, faded warm reds and orange,” says Mac. “Eyes are a key feature when working with brown shades – try ditching the dark blacks and place products into the crease and below the brow shape.”
The use of neutrals and earth tones go beyond the eyes, with Nguyen-Grealis suggesting creating “barely-there contour colours in taupe, browns, rich, soft textures and angled subtle contouring around eyeliner and the cheekbones”.
Her top tip for achieving the look? “The no-make-up-make-up look is actually harder to create, so opting to place your product and then blend off to soften until it’s barely there is the best way to create depth.”
THE ’90S COLOUR
block with a pale
Both Nguyen-Grealis and Nikkisecretx predict “lived-in” make-up is set to trend this AW22 – think smudged eyeliner and mascara from the night before, but intentional.
“For more of an evening look, go for slept-in eyeliner, smudged with glossy lids,” recommends Nikkisecretx. To balance out the dark eyes go for a minimal, natural base. Nikkisecretx likes to complement the look with “freckles to be shown through tinted foundation and lip oil on the lips”.
Nguyen-Grealis recommends using a lot of black, then “smudging in black, blue, aubergine and browns to give the eye definition,” and, when it comes to products, she adds, “A cream khol is best, used in the waterline or really close to the lashes and smudged in.” Nguyen-Grealis says you want the overall look to give the impression that the dark, smudged colours are “coming from the root of the lash and fading out”.
Spotlight on the lips
Bold lips are a great way to make a statement, and there are two routes you can follow to make your clients’ pouts stand out in AW22. For Nguyen-Grealis nothing beats a classic red lip – softened this season using different finishes.
“Red lips are back on trend but this time in hydrating and healthy sheens, stains or moisturising formulas that are not quite glossy but healthy-looking.
Paired with beautiful natural make-up and simple grooming the look is effortlessly glam,” she shares.
“The trick is to prep correctly, ensuring they are smooth and hydrated before application. Start with the lipstick, line them if your shape is uneven and then work with the rest of your make-up to see what you need to add.”
Nikkisecretx agrees that bold lips are a must for AW22, saying, “Bold burgundy statement lips make a comeback every autumn-winter but I think this year they will be paired with completely bare eyes – little to no mascara.”
By combining bare eyes with a bold lip, emphasis will be fully on the lips, making a statement. If your client prefers a more subtle look, Nikkisecretx suggests creating a smudged or feathered lip for a softer effect. CND