Want to specialise in male waxing but don’t know where to start? AMANDA PAULEY quizzes four leading wax pros to provide you with a follicular cheat sheet, covering everything from mastering the boy brow to total deforestation

AMANDA PAULEY

Waxing

THE WAXING PROS

Andy Rouillard owns the Axiom Men’s Grooming Salon and The Wax Academy, both in Basingstoke. He is also involved in product development for Ashmira Botanica.

Sam Marshall is a waxing educator and speaker and owner of The Beauty Guru in Salford, Manchester. She is also a member of the Habia Skills Active Advisory Committee.

Jenny Hunter is head of education for wax brand Waxu, delivering training at venues across the UK. She was previously a trainer and brand ambassador for Perron Rigot.

Angie Sanderson is lead educator at Sweet Squared, which distributes pro waxing brand Wax:one in the UK and Ireland. She also owns Angelic Hair & Beauty in Glasgow.

What’s the best way to attract more men into my salon?

Hunter: Put your leaflets, cards and treatment menus in places where men will see what you offer – gyms, barbers and wedding outfitters. You’ll be surprised at the number of guys who want to start waxing but don’t know where to go.

Marshall: Most of my clients find me through my website, which is SEO-optimised for waxing men. For example, some of my key terms are “male waxing” and “Manchester”, which covers my speciality and where I’m based. Guys don’t really walk up and down the high street to find their waxer.

Rouillard: Waxing is such a visual service, which is why you should be making the most of Instagram. It’s a great place to put before-and-after shots, so people can see the treatment results, and it’s perfect for targeting sporty clients.

I use the hashtags that guys are using for other treatments, services and social interests to extend my reach. For example, gym-goers use #chestday or #armsday when working out and these hashtags are also relevant for waxing services, so I integrate them into my posts.

How can I make intimate waxing more comfortable for men?

Sanderson: You can’t be timid about touching your client because you need to ensure you’re getting the appropriate stretch, wax placement and removal.

The skin around a man’s genitals is much looser than anywhere else, so you’ll only able to work on one patch at a time as the need to stretch the skin is much greater.

Rouillard: It puts a better stretch in the skin if the client is helping. It also helps take that fear away because they are a bit more in control – they are lying there with no clothes on entrusting you with their crown jewels. Plus, if anything does pop up and say hello, then they can hold that out of the way so you never have to tackle that tackle.

What techniques are best to use for a back and chest wax?

Hunter: I like to use a combination of hot and strip wax. Hot wax is good at grabbing those stronger, more stubborn hairs, particularly at the top of the shoulders and around the neck, while strip wax is perfect for softer hairs everywhere else.

Rouillard: Sometimes it’s difficult to get hair on the side of the torso if your client is lying flat on the treatment table, especially if they are particularly hirsute and their chest and back hair connects in the middle, because you can’t always keep the strip parallel to the body.

So, when I sit my client up to wax their shoulders and neck, I ask them to put their left hand on their right shoulder, and vice versa, because then you can do a line with your wax straight up the torso, giving a clean finish.

Marshall: If someone comes in for a back wax and the hair is quite long or you can’t see the skin then you need to trim, otherwise the wax will pull when it’s applied. Trimming using a grade two or three is enough, so you can see the direction of the hair, and it will make the wax a lot more comfortable.

How can I create a natural fade between smooth skin and hair?

Sanderson: Men generally have more obvious hair growth and across more of their body than women. For example, they may want the hair removed from their bikini line but not want a full leg wax, so you need to adjust your technique to blend between where the hair is removed and where it’s left so it’s not an obvious straight line.

Marshall: Blending is a great tip. I use trimmers to fade a line so it looks like it would naturally grow; for example, as if the hair had started growing at the bottom of the back going down to the buttocks. You can even blend using wax on a strip, gently pressing it into those hairs to feather the line.

Hunter: I also do clippering in male intimate waxing. So, if a chap is having a Brazilian, I’ll trim at the top to neaten everything up. It’s a nice extra and something you can charge a little bit for.

I’m new to waxing brows. How do I get it right?

Marshall: Guy brows are so popular now.

My top tips are not to go too far apart in the middle, and when waxing underneath the brow, take it in a straight line going outwards to give a natural look. It takes away the stray hairs, creating something that looks groomed but not overdone.

Hunter: It’s also important to listen to the client so you meet their expectations. Some guys want such a clean finish to their eyebrows while others like it to be left a little rough and ready so it’s more natural. Ask them their preference.

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Jacamo

Rouillard: For the natural brow look, the technique of trimming works well. Brush your client’s hair up with a disposable mascara wand then chip into the hair with scissors – like a hairdresser would do during a haircut. It takes out some of the bulk and length but keeps it looking relatively masculine.

What waxing upsells can I offer to boost revenue?

Hunter: Ear and nostril waxing are such easy upsells to add at the end of other treatments. The first time a client comes into your salon, offer them a nose wax as a complimentary service so they get an idea of what it’s going to be like. Hopefully they’ll love the result and you can upsell it to them going forward with ease.

Rouillard: Knuckle waxing is an easy upsell if your client is getting married because it’ll make their hands and ring finger look good in pictures. Also try adding a wax to the end of a pedicure to help their feet look good in flip flop weather.

What are the golden aftercare rules to tell clients?

Sanderson: Men can be more prone to folliculitis – inflammation of the hair follicles – so it’s important they follow your aftercare advice, such as wearing loose clothing and avoiding excessive sweating. Hot showers, the gym and saunas can all block hair follicles.

Marshall: I always advise clients to put on a clean t-shirt when they get home, change their bedding and wear fresh pyjamas. I also give them a leaflet that reminds them of what not to do because they don’t always understand that sweating will cause spots. It’s about keeping the skin cool, calm and free from heat and friction.

Hunter: Recommend they use something antibacterial on the skin, like a spray or wash, to reduce inflammation. Also, tell clients to dry their back properly after showering instead of air drying it. If water is left sitting on the surface of the skin, bacteria can get into the pores and clog them.

My therapists struggle to retail wax products. How can I help them?

Rouillard: Your therapists should be recommending something to your client that they can use at home in the days and weeks following their appointment to maintain the best results from their treatment. I keep a homecare kit in the treatment room that includes a wash, exfoliating cloth and moisturiser, which are the essentials I want all my male clients to go home with.

Marshall: I know a hair salon that has a good concept for retailing. When a client books in for their first appointment, they charge a bit more than normal because the experience will include the treatment and a homecare product for the client. What they are trying to do is instil habits at the beginning of the client’s journey that they will continue to do each time they visit.

It’s a brilliant idea as it gives your customer a chance to try out the product and see that it works. So, on a guy’s first back wax, you could include samples or even large sizes of the retail product in the price, and that person is not only likely to use it but also buy it.