ask the EXPERTS

Why does pigmentation appear differently on some skin tones?

Treating all skin tones with a one-size-fits-all approach belies their physiological variations and the aesthetic needs of the individual client. The fact remains, different skin tones age, pigment, blemish and scar differently.

Melanin, a naturally occurring sun block that protects skin cells from the harmful effects of ultraviolet radiation from the sun, is produced from the amino acid tyrosine by cells called melanocytes. The production of melanin is controlled by an enzyme called tyrosinase and is stimulated by exposure to sunlight.

People whose melanocytes don’t produce much tyrosinase will most likely have fair skin that doesn’t tan easily.

It’s important to note that within each skin colour group there is a wide range of tones, and some of these overlap from group to group. For example, white skin can range from alabaster white to deep olive; black from light tan to almost ebony. These differences are caused by the concentration of melanin and proportional contribution of the other pigments in the skin. People of different races have the same number of melanocytes but they are more active in dark-skinned clients – with oil glands and follicles more numerous and large and skin tending to be oilier, although less acne-prone.

The darker the skin, the more protection melanin provides from ultraviolet rays and premature ageing. Contrary to popular belief, dark skin can get sunburnt too, making it even darker.

We all have advantages and disadvantages specific to our skin type, depending on our genetic predisposition. Knowing your clients’ skin strengths and weaknesses means you can tailor your skincare approach in treatment to meet their skin characteristics.

Antonia Burrell is a celebrity facialist, aesthetician, lecturer and founder of the eponymous skincare line. She is also a member of Babtac and the Society of Cosmetic Scientists.

I want to create acrylic 3D flower nail art. Where do I start?

Doing 3D acrylic nail art requires a lot of practice and patience, especially when you’re trying to create something intricate like flowers. The most important aspect of application is getting the bead consistency right. Before you start to mould your design, your bead should go matte.

Only once this has happened can you start to create your flower. Then, using the tip of your brush but keeping it to the inside of your bead, gently pat the product down to create your petal shape.

For roses, I like to create a croissant shape before pressing the product down because this gives a good base. Repeat this process each time until you get to the middle of the flower, making sure to overlap each petal as you go along. Remember, flowers aren’t symmetrical so they don’t have to be perfect.

When creating a two-toned petal, use the lighter colour first and then add a small amount of a darker tone to create a nice blend. Your lighter colour should be kept to the outside of the bead when sculpting as this will make your flower look more realistic.

The tools you use are also important. Invest in a brush with a sharp point, such as a #4 or #6, as it will make it easier for you to create intricate art.

I like NSI’s secrets 3D Brush because it’s long, giving me plenty of control over my product.

My best advice is to stay out of your comfort zone and keep pushing yourself – once you perfect the basics of a design, keep tweaking it and the results will be so rewarding.

Bethany Denby is owner of Bethany Anne Nails in Leeds and was a finalist in the Professional Beauty Awards Nail Professional of the Year 2018 category.

My business leaves me with no time to myself. How can I factor in self-care?

As employers and employees who work in the fast-paced beauty industry, we tend to put everyone else first without consideration for ourselves. There can be weeks, even months, where we provide everyone else – clients, staff, family – with all of us, when really, we are only human and need investing in too.

I speak to so many salon and spa owners who aren’t given the opportunity to make time for themselves and are running on empty. As a spa owner, I often overwork and exhaust myself, giving everything I can to clients and staff, with very little left for my family and friends, and most importantly, me.

Our industry is all consuming – the continual changes, unpredictability of staff, clients and life – we are on call 24/7. Delegation is the key. We know we are masters of juggling many balls at once because we are conditioned to do so; however, it is far more practical to focus on one job at a time, becoming present in the task at hand.

It’s also important that we try to implement mindfulness in our day-to-day routine – even just five minutes of quiet time can bring such clarity. Every morning the team and I sit together and focus on the day ahead, visualising what we want to achieve. I can’t recommend pausing for a while highly enough.

Sam Pearce is owner of the Potting Shed Spa in Batley, West Yorkshire, which has won 23 awards in the past seven years.

Why do night-time skincare products use different ingredients?

Our skin behaves differently at night and as such requires certain ingredients to support its activity – skin follows a circadian rhythm overnight, creating waves of activity that trigger cells to perform important processes at specific times.

While we sleep, our skin is busy with the processes of renewal such as detoxifying, repairing and rebalancing after a busy day, which is why it’s important to use an overnight treatment with a lipid-rich base and ingredients such as marine actives to increase oxygenation.

Our body temperature also changes. We perspire and our skin loses moisture and precious minerals. To counteract this, a night-time treatment needs to provide a rich source of minerals and hydrating ingredients such as hyaluronic acid. Texture is also important because if you choose something too rich it will block skin from perspiring, causing congestion.

Another factor to consider is the position in which clients sleep because it is the primary cause of static sleep wrinkles. If you sleep with your face pressed up against a pillow it can create compression, inhibiting oxygen flow and causing a crumpled effect in the morning.

Ingredients such as peptides counteract this by supporting the skin’s structure, so clients wake up crease-free.

Even the aromatic of a product should be different. For example, a daytime product might have an uplifting blend to refresh skin in the morning, whereas a night one should have a soothing, relaxing fragrance to help clients unwind.

Nicci Anstey is global training and education director for British skincare brand Elemis and works with the company’s cofounder Noella Gabriel on treatment and product development.

What are hybrid lash extensions and how do I create them?

Hybrid lashes are a mix of classic and 2D volume lashes – they are a slightly heavier, fluffier, classic set compared to full-on volume ones. An artist trained in classic individual eyelash extensions will be able to produce a hybrid set without the need for additional training.

To apply them, you need to alter your tweezers to a volume pair to create the fans, but the method of application is still one on one.

Overweighting can be an issue and could lead to breakage of the natural lashes.

For the fan lashes, because you are attaching multiple extensions to one lash, a lighter weight is needed so the safety of the natural lash isn’t compromised. I recommend weights 0.07 and 0.10 and for classic curl a mix of B and C. For classic individuals, I would use 0.12 and 0.15-weight lashes; you can use these heavier lashes because it’s a one-on-one application.

Hybrid lashes are the perfect stepping stone. If you’re thinking of adding volume to your menu but are unsure if those clients who like classics will change, why not introduce hybrids for infills and go from there.

This year, the Eyelash Emporium will launch its new advanced classic course which covers weighting, styling and putting the hybrid technique to the test, teaching a wider skill set to increase profits.

Jo McGovern is a lash educator with pro brand Eyelash Emporium. She has 12 years’ industry experience.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?

Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

How can I improve the visual merchandising in my spa to drive retail sales?

Retail is an important part of a spa’s revenue, and visual merchandising is vital in supporting the sales that come from therapists’ homecare recommendations.

It’s crucial to have an annual merchandising calendar that ties in with your spa’s marketing schedule, with the two running in harmony. Decide on the areas of opportunity in your spa – for example, windows, retail shelves, TV screens, display notice boards, reception area – and make sure each has relevant visual merchandising carrying the same message, but in a manner appropriate to how the customer views that area.

For example, a window should have an image with a clear message and call to action, a hot-spot table would suit a mini tester stand and board with the offer details on, and a retail shelving area would have a section highlighting the products connected to the marketing activity, so clients are instantly drawn to the products mentioned in the window and table message.

You should also change your visual marketing regularly, at least bi-monthly, so that every time a customer visits they are greeted with fresh merchandising that catches their eye. If you’re a hotel spa, it means that people using other facilities such as the gym are then enticed to stop and look, giving your receptionists the opportunity to engage with the guest and make those important sales.

Tracy Brasenell is national sales manager for Caudalie UK & Ireland. She has more than 25 years’ experience in the spa and beauty industry.

I’m a newly trained wax therapist. What are the common troubleshooting issues?

There are some common problems therapists’ face in salon, but most can be easily avoided with the right knowledge.

A simple step that will ensure a good waxing result for clients is preparation. When using hot wax, apply a pre-wax oil and reapply it to skin throughout treatment to act as a barrier and minimise the risk of skin lifting. When using strip wax, make sure you have cleansed and that there’s no residue left. If it’s still damp then you run the risk of lifting that skin when you go to remove the wax.

Always use a hot wax and pre-wax oil on the face, underarms and bikini because the skin on these areas is much more delicate. Strip wax is ideal for legs, arms and parts of men’s backs and chests. I recommend using a combination of hot and strip on guys’ backs and chests.

The most important thing is to always check the temperature of your wax. Never trust a dial or a digital guide as every single wax pot on the market fluctuates. The only sure way to know the temperature of your wax is to test it on yourself, so get into the habit of doing that.

Your waxing brand should be able to show you at training the ideal working consistency and what that looks like.

Ellen Kavanagh is a waxing specialist and chief executive of wax brand Waxperts, which she co-founded with Trish O’Brien.