THE K BEAUTY BOOM

Korean skincare continues to grow in popularity in the UK. Erin Leybourne asks the experts about the unique ethos of K beauty and why it’s become so popular in the West

Korean skincare has been gaining popularity in Europe, with its focus on skin health and achieving a glow from within. Also known as K-beauty, it has spawned trends including the “glass skin” look popular on social media.

“The K-beauty market has experienced significant growth recetly, and according to Future Market Insights is expected to have a compound annual growth rate of 5.9% a year over the 10 years to 2034,” explains Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, skincare educator and founder of Skin Masterclass.

Meanwhile, dermatologist Dr Jinah Yoo, who runs the Maylin X Dr Jinah Yoo Dermatology clinic in London, says social media has played an intrinsic role in the popularity of Korean skincare as a trend.

She explains, “The pursuit of achieving the highly acclaimed ‘glass skin’ sparked a phenomenon and has created increased demand and opportunity, with many Korean-based brands now available to shop in the UK and US.

“Korean beauty is one of the country’s biggest businesses and exports so it’s fantastic to see it gaining traction and recognition worldwide.”

Korean skincare is considered a gentle approach, nourishing and hydrating with scientifically sound ingredients that create proven results. “What differentiates Korean skincare from its Western counterpart is the focus on maintaining skin health and promoting a healthy skin barrier with the use of gentler ingredients,” says Dr Yoo.

“Korean skincare products are formulated to promote hydration via soothing ingredients that will help reduce inflammation and in turn not dry out skin.”

A multi-step approach

The classic 10-step K-Beauty regime has been used for decades in South Korea, with stages including a three-step cleanse (oil-based, water-based and exfoliation) so the products applied after can penetrate the skin better with optimal results.

“It’s not necessarily about following all 10 steps every day. What is important is that professionals and consumers understand the purpose of each step, then select and choose depending on the individual skin goals of the client,” says Yilmaz.

When it comes to active ingredients, PHAs (polyhydroxy acids) are particularly popular in Korean skincare as they exfoliate skin at surface level without penetrating too deep and aggravating skin in the way that other acids commonly used in Western skincare can.

Rebecca Elsdon, cosmetic nurse, advanced skin specialist and owner of skin health clinic Reskin in Sheffield, explains, “Korean skincare focuses on gentle yet effective products to achieve healthy, glowing skin through protection, hydration and a gentle approach to exfoliation and actives rather than an aggressive treatment. The philosophy focuses on nourishing the skin, taking a holistic approach to addressing skin concerns, and promoting self-care.”

Treatments to pair with Korean skincare

Dr Hall believes that advanced treatments pair very well with K-beauty, due to its calming and nourishing nature. She recommends treatments that prioritise hydration and skin health.

“Skin boosters aimed at hydration work synergistically with K-beauty, while controlled microtrauma treatments such as laser and microneedling will heal more quickly, and downtime is often reduced with the use of ingredients found in the skincare.”

Products and ingredients

“Korean skincare is highly renowned for its fermented skincare products, CC creams and oil-based cleansers, which are all very affordable and I would struggle to find Western equivalents to match up to their quality, and certainly their price,” says Dr Christine Hall, a London-based aesthetic doctor with a specialist interest in Korean beauty. “There are so many ingredients that are used in K-beauty that we just can’t get in the UK but houttuynia cordata (also known as heart leaf) is an ingredient that is gaining in popularity in Korea and is being hailed as the next big thing in skincare as the product that will fix inflamed skin. It is a soothing ingredient that has antioxidant properties but is also being used by many Koreans to successfully help with congested skin and blackheads.”

Yilmaz adds, “Ingredients focus on supporting and healing the skin with a low risk of irritation and dryness, making them a popular choice with consumers. Although they are gentler on the skin, they still possess potent benefits that result in clear, radiant skin.”