Master stroke

So, you want to be a brow pro? Kezia Parkins quizzes the experts about the most popular and profitable services to train in

Brows are big business and have fast become one of the most sought-after services in salons. “Globally there has been a huge surge in demand for well-groomed eyebrows, meaning brows has evolved to become its own category, creating a high demand for brow specialists,” says semipermanent make-up specialist Laura Kay. “Creating the perfect brow, individual to your client’s face shape and desired outcome, gives those who train a creative outlet.”

We all know a well-constructed brow can provide great definition and enhancement and frame the face, but it goes further than that, as Salon System educator Lisa Stone explains. “A good brow can actually change the face shape, or make eyes look younger and lifted,” she says.

“Brow treatments can also add volume, fill in gaps and even cover scar tissue, making clients more confident and increasing their self-esteem. That can be incredibly rewarding.”

Most brow services can be done almost anywhere and need very little space and relatively low investment, so they offer a great opportunity to add income as a brow specialist or to a salon business.

“Being a brow specialist gives you the flexibility to work the hours, days and in the locations of your choosing, without being confined to standard salon or spa hours. You have the option to fit your work around your other commitments, such as children, and also offer out-of-hours appointments,” adds Kay.

Brow shaping

If you want to get into brows, the experts suggest starting with the basics. While simple, these treatments can still have a huge effect on your client’s face and confidence. “Classic treatments will always be popular, such as brow shaping, which includes tweezing, waxing or threading to shape and groom the eyebrows,” says Samantha Kendrew, head of education at Susan Gerrard Beauty Academy.

“50% of clients who get beauty treatments will get their brows done,” adds Karen Betts, chief executive of Nouveau HD Beauty Group. “Even a simple shape-up can make a huge difference to a client’s face and confidence. It’s surprising what waxing or threading can create, even if the brows are fine and fluffy. There is always something you can do to tidy them up. When combined with tinting, you can create a brilliant shape, which is where we normally start clients on their brow journey.”

Tinting

Brow tinting involves colouring the brows with a semi-permanent dye to enhance their appearance and is often the next stage of brow enhancement. Tint stains the hair and the skin to give definition and shape while filling in any gaps or sparse areas to make the brows look denser.

“Brow tinting is a popular treatment to darken hair or harmonise brow hair colour by custom colour mixing to work with skin tone, fashion and trends, creating strong, bold and dramatic colour or subtle tones to create harmonising colour,” says Stone. “Brows can also be lightened to create sunkissed tones or stronger vibrant colour.”

Bleached brows were one of the hottest brow trends of 2023 and we can expect this to spill over into 2024, but with more emphasis on a good colour rather than just a straight-up bleached look.

Tinting is usually carried out around every four to six weeks, with a brow wax or threading afterwards to give sharp shapes and perfect lines – a great add-on to rebook your regular clients in for.

When choosing a tint to provide and train in, consider your brand and ethos. “With the demand for that ‘make-up’ look, we are seeing many different types of tinting systems in the industry that give fabulous results,” says Stone.

“Some use PPD and peroxide, some are henna formulations, while hybrid tints give more of a skin stain for creating shape and definition. There are now also alternative tints that are free from chemicals and can be used if clients have allergies to PPDbased formulas.”

Lamination

“Lamination is one of the most popular treatments right now,” says Betts. “Even with thin brows, you can get them looking fuller by combining lamination and tinting.”

Lamination is a two-step treatment that essentially perms the hairs, allowing them to be tamed and brushed and set into that trending fluffy look. The treatment takes around 15 minutes. “It does take you a little longer because we are lifting the brows and setting them into a different structure but there are bigger opportunities involved, so anybody trained in brows should add lamination on their menu because so many clients are asking for it,” she adds.

''You will never be successful if you don’t TAKE TRAINING SERIOUSLY. The people that do the best in brows have a real LOVE FOR THE CRAFT and for HELPING PEOPLE''

Brow lamination is one of Stone’s favourite services. “I love the results it gives and it’s extremely profitable, especially when carried out with a lash lift too,” she says. “This treatment gives a strong, on-trend brushed-up look that we see on catwalks, magazine covers and social media, but don’t be put off if that’s not your clients’ thing, because brow lamination can also just tame unruly brows, giving a sleek, smooth, classic look. It can restructure the hairs to sit flat and cover gaps, and create depth and volume in a thinning brow.”

Followed with tint to add or change brow colour and waxing or threading to remove stray hairs, the results are even more impressive and can be marketed as a complete package. For example, after a £30 HD Brows waxing and tinting treatment, Brow Sculpt, the brand’s lamination service, can be added on for £15. “So, if you are seeing 10 clients a day, then you can add on another £150 in earnings from lamination,” says Betts.

However, it is especially important to invest in training because of the chemicals involved. “You have to really understand what you are using and get your timings right,” adds Betts.

“Overprocessing can lead to the hairs becoming frazzled and snapping.”

Microblading and SPMU

Semi-permanent make-up in the form of microblading is a great option for people with sparse, patchy or thinning brows and those dealing with the effects of chemotherapy or alopecia. It involves manually or digitally tattooing hair strokes. “A lot of clients that have gone on the journey of waxing and tinting start to want something that stays longer, so they try microblading or ombré brows,” says Betts. “Also, people who have got fine hair or overplucked eyebrows that will never grow back can benefit, as can women struggling with hormones or going through menopause, which causes thinning. You can guarantee that after age 40 to 45, the eyebrows will start thinning,” she adds. For those clients who want a longer-lasting solution, top-up treatments can be spaced between 12 to 18 months.

Noticing an increase in the popularity of more permanent solutions, the Susan Gerrard Beauty Academy recently partnered with Laura Kay London to offer microblading and ombré brows. Those looking to graduate to this area of the brow industry can expect more intense training but it also offers potential to really elevate their career.

Betts says microblading and SPMU is one of the hardest services to learn but one of the most rewarding “because you can help people and give them back their confidence, and you can also charge a lot more money for a treatment”.

Kay says profitability will vary, depending on factors such as location, expertise, client base and price structure, but agrees, “Microblading and permanent make-up tend to be higher-priced services, yielding higher profits per treatment.”

Stone says these services can be extremely lucrative, with therapists earning six-figure salaries. “It’s a rewarding career that needs dedication to developing your art but if you do that, you will quickly see your client base grow from word of mouth and recommendations,” she adds.

“When people first start, they charge around £295 for a microblading treatment,” says Betts. “Some of my elite team are now charging £895 per treatment.”

Invest in yourself

All the above services offer a great opportunity to earn a substantial profit but investing in training is imperative to keep you up to date with the latest trends and techniques. “When looking for a training provider, make sure they are fully accredited and that you can obtain insurance to carry out your services,” advises Stone.

“You will never be successful if you don’t take training seriously,” adds Betts. “The people that do the best in brows have a real love for the craft and for helping people.”

If you are serious about forging a successful career in brows, the opportunities are almost endless. “You can work as a mobile brow tech or set up a studio from your home, rent space in a salon or franchise brow bar in department stores or shopping malls,” says Stone. “Or set up a brow empire all of your own to work around your life and schedule.”