Treating winter skin

Megan Crowhurst @the.aestheticsnurse, co-founder of aesthetics support organisation The Nurses Network, explains how to combine LED, microneedling and radiofrequency to treat winter skin concerns

What are the main skin concerns that clients present with in winter versus summer?

“Hydration is often an issue. I get patients that come in saying, ‘my skin looks dull, I’m starting to notice fine lines a little bit more, my make-up isn’t sitting quite as nicely as it does in the summer’. With the temperature change of going from freezing cold outside, into the warm, you’re often going to notice a change in your skin.

“Some skin concerns may be the same year round but in summer it can be challenging to treat things such as pigmentation, because they can be worsened with UVA and UVB, particularly on holidays. Things like blemishes will also always be an issue, but can be quite difficult to treat in the summer because of the sun. If you’re putting any harsh acids on the skin, they could be impairing the barrier for that client. So,where there’s not quite as much sun in the winter, you are able to treat things a little bit more intensely.”

Which devices do you use to treat winter skin concerns?

“Things like hyperpigmentation you’re able to treat with chemical peels and also with aesthetic devices such as 3D Dermaforce RF microneedling and CO2 laser. With the 3D Dermaforce, microneedling encourages collagen production, and anything that can be caused by sun damage is going to be really helped by that, like pigmentation and even things as basic as hydration.

“The skin barrier, as we know, is fundamental making sure that your skin doesn’t get really dry and prone to things such as redness and irritation, so hydration is another thing we can really help to improve, through skincare such as masks and key ingredients like niacinamide, but also devices like the 3D HydrO2 facial, because it has the oxygen spray, which helps with cell metabolism and hydration of the skin.

“I use the radiofrequency with microneedling in 3D Dermaforce as you can use it for most skin complaints. With hydration or skin barrier issues it encourages collagen production, which can also really help to improve fine lines and the overall skin health and appearance. With pigmentation, the increased collagen production helps those cells that have been damaged by the sun, so you can really see a change with pigmentation. It can also help with skin tightening and with things like rosacea.”

How do you work LED into your treatments?

“I’ll often combine radiofrequency with Dermalux LED. The blue light works on the epidermis and anything that’s inflammatory, like psoriasis or rosacea. It’s antimicrobial and can also really help with hydration so it’s great after you’ve treated the skin with radiofrequency with 3D Dermaforce as there’s going to be some inflammatory response from the trauma caused.

“With the red light, that works on the dermis, so slightly deeper in the skin, so that can really help with melanocyte production, and tackle pigmentation issues.

“Near infrared works a bit deeper within the skin so that one is great for any bone or joint pain – inflammation again – and then you can use something called the Tri-Wave, which is all three lights, so you can really target each layer of the skin.”