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Government consultation on aesthetic procedure licences: have your say

Beauty professionals are being urged to have their say as the long-awaited Government consultation is launched into a licensing scheme in England for aesthetic procedures including injectables, laser, microneedling and others.

The full consultation document outlines a proposal to divide procedures into a red, amber and green “traffic light” system based on the risk of complication.

Many have expressed concern that a lot of treatments commonly performed by beauty therapists with advanced training – such as radiofrequency, electrolysis, and all treatments using dual-technology devices – have been classified as “amber”, meaning they would only be allowed to be performed with the oversight of a healthcare professional if the proposed classifications go ahead.

However, the online consultation document does ask for opinion on whether any of these treatments should be reclassified – which is why it is vital for beauty professionals to make their voices heard.

Under the proposed scheme, which will be operated by local authorities in England, practitioners will need to be licensed to perform specific procedures, and the premises from which they operate will also need to be licensed.

The full categorisations can be found at, where you will also find a link to the consultation form.

Check our news analysis piece on page 25 for more on what has been done so far, the next steps, and industry opinion.

NHBF releases first ever report on ethnic mix within the beauty industry

The NHBF has released a report that outlines the ethnic mix in the UK hair and beauty industry.

The report, Analysis of the Trends Within the Hair & Beauty Industry by Ethnicity Across the UK, aims to better understand trends within the industry.

Key findings from the research revealed that, despite the hair and beauty sector growing from 2,141 units in 2017 to 2,340 in 2022 in locations with a larger proportion of black, black British, Caribbean or African people in the local population, total market share among this ethnic group declined from 5% in 2017 to 4% in 2022.

Similarly, despite rising from 4,306 in 2017 to 5,471 in 2022 in Asian or Asian British postcode sectors, overall market share reduced from 11% in 2017 to 9% in 2022.

Meanwhile, predominantly white neighbourhoods saw their market share rise from 84% in 2017 to 87% in 2022 across all hair and beauty categories.

Regionally, Black/Black British/ Caribbean and African businesses were most resilient in the East Midlands, while this same group has seen the biggest

decline in the South East. Asian or Asian British units saw growth in Greater London and the South West across all time periods, and saw the biggest decline in the East of England.

News inbrief

Caroline Larissey, director of quality and standards for the NHBF, has joined the Federation of Holistic Therapists (FHT) as vice president. In her role, Larrissey will guide the FHT's mission to raise standards, promote good practice and provide support to holistic therapists.

Dermalogica has been recognised for the third time by HRH The Princess Royal as a recipient of a Royal Training Award for the Dermalogica Upskill Programme. The awards honour organisations showing exceptional commitment to learning and development.

Elemis has partnered with Perfect Corp to bring an AI-powered skin experience to customers. Customers can now complete a questionnaire and scan their skin, with the AI technology providing an overall skin score and matching them to an Elemis routine.

Liz McKeon has announced the launch of The Successful Salon Formula, an international coaching programme for beauty salon owners, in which McKeon will provide training on how to be a great boss, how to offer an excellent client experience every time and how to generate sales over a six-month period.

Beauty brand Black Apothecary Office (BAO Essentials), owned by Caribbean-American chemical engineer Jaé Joseph, is entering the spa space for the first time. The brand will be incorporated into treatments and the retail offering at The Feel Good Spa, ACE Hotel Palm Springs, US.

A third of brits are vitamin D deficient according to new research

A third of Brits are vitamin D deficient, according to a study research review by the Health & Food Supplements Information Service (HSIS), published in The Food and Nutrition Journal.

The UK recommends a dose of 10 mcg daily to achieve a serum concentration of 25(OH)D of at least 25 nmol/litre.

However, in Europe and the US, where the target level of 25(OH)D is more than 50 nmol/litre, data suggests that 10 mcg daily of vitamin D would allow only around 50% of the UK population to achieve the European target.

HSIS GP Dr Nisa Aslam points out, “We’d need to take 25 mcg of vitamin D daily to achieve the European target level of more than 50 nmol/litre in 97.5% of the UK population.”

Closing the gap to prevent deficiency is essential to tackling nutritional rickets and osteomalacia, as well as consolidating bone mass in adulthood and reducing the risk of osteoporosis in later life.

Not getting enough vitamin D can impact the muscles, immune function, respiratory system, and susceptibility to cardiometabolic disease, type 1 diabetes and rheumatoid arthritis.

Remembering Champneys co-owner Dorothy Purdew OBE 1932–2023

Dorothy Purdew OBE, founder and chair of spa group Champneys, died on September 5, aged 91.

Widely regarded as a pioneer of the UK spa industry, she evolved her spas from weight-loss-focused health farms to modern wellness destinations.

Born in London in 1932, she started her first business, WeightGuard, in 1970 with just £60 and opened her first health farm, Frimleys, eight years later.

With her late husband Bob and son Stephen Purdew, she went on to buy Henlow Grange, Springs Hydro, Forest Mere and then Champneys Tring.

The Purdew family then created the Champneys group in 2002 with all four properties, more recently adding Eastwell Manor and Mottram Hall.

Champneys said in a statement, “Dorothy could never believe a girl from a working-class background could become one of the world’s most influential spa operators.

“Champneys became her life. Even into her 90s, she would read the guest feedback every morning, eager to learn of how the business could improve. The Champneys brand is now valued at over £300 million.”

Dorothy is survived by her sons Stephen and Simon, her grandchildren James, Daisy, Robert, Raffaella and Barnaby, and her great grandchildren Charlie, Olivia and Henry.

News inbrief

Dorchester Collection has partnered with organic skincare brand Ishga in its UK hotels. Ishga treatments will now be available at The Dorchester Spa and The Spa at 45 Park Lane, London, following a successful initial launch into The Spa at Coworth Park, Ascot.

Jasmine Holmes and Michael Pollock have launched Holmes of Beauty Academy. Located in Bournemouth, the academy will offer a range of beauty courses including nails, lashes and waxing, as well as hairdressing and barbering workshops and training sessions.

Salon System has announced new dates for its Just Wax Male Intimate Waxing Course, in association with men’s waxing specialist Andy Rouillard. The one-day course will be held at Capital Hair & Beauty locations in Aldershot (on October 16), Dudley (on November 8) and Cardiff (on December 8).

New spa Royal Onsen has opened in Bradford city centre. With Turkish and Moroccan baths, the spa will offer a range of treatments, from carbon facials to body scrubs, as well as mud chambers, sauna and steam rooms, and a hydrotherapy pool.

Beauty industry entrepreneur and Kalmar co-creator Tracey Woodward is walking 118 miles in support of the 18 Keys Project, raising awareness and vital funds for women who have endured homelessness.

A quarter of Brits suffer from a nail infection according to new research

Some 25% of the UK population is likely to be suffering from nail infections, according to a new report published by footcare brand Excilor.

More worryingly, only 11% are aware that they have a nail infection and 89% didn’t know that nail infections are contagious.

52% of sufferers questioned in the poll said that the pain was the worst thing about having a nail infection while 32% said they were embarrassed about it – showing that fungal nail infections can impact sufferers’ day-to-day lives.

GP and foot expert Dr Gill Jenkins said, “Fungal nail infections are notoriously hard to get rid of without treatment and they can cause pain, swelling and itchiness.

“They are often incredibly contagious, so contagious in fact, that even touching the feet, and then touching other parts of the body, can cause the fungus to spread.”

Andrew Hansford launches aesthetics training subscription service

Aesthetics trainer and practitioner Andrew Hansford has launched a subscription service that aims to provide a trusted resource for practitioners looking to set up or grow an aesthetic clinic or advanced beauty salon.

For £59 a month, website will give subscribers access to a broad range of clinical data and business support. For example, it includes guides on the protocols and benefits of numerous popular aesthetic procedures – alongside downloadable clinical studies – plus video demonstrations of treatments, product reviews and downloadable legal document templates such as employment contracts and non-disclosure agreements.

Hansford commented on the launch: “I wanted to give back to an industry which has been so supportive of me by putting together a repository of information that will be useful in many areas of the business we find ourselves in that can often be misleading or complex; clinical, business and personal support, from a non-biased and honest perspective. I hope you enjoy it, it is as much yours as it is mine.”

News inbrief

The Spa at Carden has collaborated with Lyra Swimwear to challenge the taboo around modest swimwear in the spa environment. The brand held its first-ever corporate brand trip, bringing together 15 well-known female Muslim influencers at the Carden Park Estate.

Research analysing pollution, sunshine and working hours has revealed the UK’s 10 worst cities for your skin. Slough ranked worst, with an overall score of just 1.32 out of 100, due to its high pollution levels (70.8 out of 100). Others in the top 10 were Southend-On-Sea, Portsmouth, Doncaster, Northampton, London, Blackpool, Bournemouth, Newport and Wolverhampton.

SAS Aesthetics has made a pledge to the pan-African movement Campaign for Female Education. The clinic is committing to providing 720 days of education each quarter, which guarantees 16 girls stay in education each year in sub-Saharan Africa.

Sofwave Medical has achieved FDA clearance of its “Superb Technology” for treatment of acne scars. The clinical study found 97% of treated participants in the trial showed improvement in the appearance of acne scars.

Laser expert and founder of 808 Laser Clinic Saffron Biggs has announced plans to launch a new training academy in Leeds. The first courses are set to launch in late autumn 2023.

Skincare brand Transformulas has announced television personality Calum Best as its newest ambassador. The partnership aims to redefine the narrative around men’s grooming.

Men’s beauty horizons expand as spend surges 77%

Men are investing more in selfcare and beauty, according to new research from finance platform Clearpay.

Overall spending among men within the beauty category has increased 77% year on year, with male shoppers making up 21% of all beauty purchases this year, a rise from just 1% in 2022.

The rise comes at a time when more male celebrities are launching their own beauty and wellness brands and stepping into ambassadorships, including Harry Styles’s Pleasing, Idris Elba’s S’Able Labs, and Tom Daley being named as Rimmel London’s brand ambassador.

As more men embrace painting their nails, the nail sector has seen an impressive 103% rise from 2022.

Skincare spend increased 33%, and men also invested more in self-tanning products, with a 44% increase.

As for generational divide, Gen Z men are embracing beauty the most, with men accounting for 27% of beauty product purchases within the Gen Z age bracket.

Hayley Snishko launches course for therapists

Massage therapist Hayley Snishko is set to release a course to empower therapists in enhancing clients’ mental wellbeing.

Snishko, who also founded the Massage4MentalHealth campaign, designed the course as an exploration of subjects that are crucial in today’s therapeutic landscape, including mental health awareness, the therapeutic relationship, and massage and mental health.

Backed by psychotherapist Helen Farrell, the course is scheduled to launch in November, with more information to follow.

Snishko said, “I am committed to equipping therapists with the knowledge and skills necessary to make a meaningful difference in clients’ lives.”

Syrup nails the latest K-beauty trend to take TikTok by storm

“Syrup nails” is one of the latest K-beauty trends to blow up, accumulating 8.1 million views for the #syrupnails hashtag on TikTok.

Meanwhile, searches for the manicure increased exponentially on Google during August and September, according to research from online discount platform Wethrift.

Jelly nails have also been doing the rounds, with glassy shades becoming popular, either as a base for nail art or for a standalone Y2K aesthetic.

Head over to syrupnails to learn more about this look and how to create it.

Alma Lasers signs Kate Hudson as ambassador

Alma Lasers has announced award-winning actress, entrepreneur, and influential figure in beauty and wellbeing Kate Hudson as its new global brand ambassador.

Hudson is known for her performances in films such as Almost Famousand 2022 Netflix hit Glass Onion: A Knives Out Mystery.

Beyond her acting, she is admired for her philanthropic efforts and her authentic approach to wellness. Hudson has partnered with Alma to front its global educational campaign to look “Beyond The Trend” in aesthetics, which aims to showcase the empowerment of embracing natural beauty, while Alma commits to delivering safe, effective, and evidence-based solutions.

The campaign highlights Alma’s products, including Alma Harmony, Soprano, Opus and PrimeX, and how they have helped people with body confidence.

Fresha expands into new markets with launch of platform in nine languages

Salon booking and payment platform Fresha is now available in nine languages, including Spanish, French, Italian, Brazilian Portuguese, Dutch and Nordic languages.

This latest move unlocks markets in Europe, the Americas and Africa, and allows partners and customers to navigate the platform end-to-end in their own language.

As part of its growth strategy in global markets, Fresha is investing in accessibility for more users worldwide.

Fresha’s users can now set any of these nine languages as the default for their business account, client notifications, and marketing communications.

Harpar Grace International to distribute RevitaLash

Athena Cosmetics, parent company of RevitaLash Cosmetics, has formed a partnership with Harpar Grace International (HGI), UK distributor of skincare, beauty, and wellness brands including IS Clinical and Déesse Pro. Harpar Grace will now distribute lash growth product Revitalash in the UK. The collaboration marks an exciting new chapter for RevitaLash

Cosmetics as they aim to enhance their presence in the global market.

Revitalash Cosmetics president Lori Jacobus said, “We are excited to join forces with Harpar Grace International. Their..relationship-first aproach with best-in-class business solutions aligns with our vision of providing the very best products and services to our customers.”

RevitaLash added that the collaboration would bring new opportunities to reach consumers through an omnichannel strategy.

Diary dates

// October 14–16 Salon International ExCeL London

An international exhibition featuring the world’s top hair brands as well as creative stages and a business education programme. 020 7351 0536

// October 15–16 Olympia Beauty ExCeL London

Now under the Professional Beauty Group umbrella, Olympia Beauty will run alongside hair show Salon International. 020 7351 0536

// October 18 UK Spa Association Autumn Networking Event 2023 The Municipal Hotel Liverpool

UKSA will meet again for a networking event in partnership with Sothys. 07384 628932

// October 19–20 CCR ExCeL London

Trade show featuring education, networking and aesthetic manufacturers, suppliers and brands. 020 3196 4370

// November 6-9 Global Wellness Summit Doha, Qatar

Spa leaders will convene, with this year’s theme being “A Time of Transformation”.

// November 10 Aesthetic Medicine Ireland RDS Dublin

The show returns to Ireland, offering a conference, live stages, demos, product launches and more. 020 3841 7365

This article appears in October 2023

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October 2023
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Editor's Comment
It’s a huge month for the beauty industry
Government consultation on aesthetic procedure licences: have your
What does the Government aesthetic treatment consultation mean for beauty?
With the aesthetic licensing consultation casting uncertainty on the future rules around treatments such as radiofrequency and electrolysis, beauty therapists are being urged to have their say
We take a look inside PB’s digital world
Redefining Resveratrol
Caudalie’s best-selling anti-ageing range Resveratrol Lift has had a face-lift – here’s what’s new
Insider Beauty
Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market
Insider Spa
Spa businesses continued to perform well as
Insider Nails
Nail treatment business in August was
Treating Adipocytes
Mechanical stimulation can have impressive effects on treating adipose tissue. The team at LPG explains how
Satisfaction Guaranteed?
The customer is always right. Right? Well, we all know it’s sometimes not quite so simple. Hellen Ward shares her advice for dealing with difficult clients
On the scene
Behind the scenes at the parties, launches and events in the world of beauty, aesthetics, spa and nails
Ask the Experts
Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business
How can laser transform your business?
Michael Perks of SkinLab Cheshire discusses how Skyncare’s laser hair removal machines have helped grow his business
Talking to… Nathan Taylor
The nail artist and owner of home salon Buff Bar Bristol tells Kezia Parkins how he is redefining what it means to be a nail tech while championing for other underrepresented artists
Better together
With combination treatments rising in popularity, Lollie Hancock finds out why radiofrequency and microneedling may be the perfect combination to give your clients their best skin ever
An evolution of fractional RF inspired by laser technology
Reverso fractional RF combines tissue ablation and protein coagulation for optimum results...
Brighten & Tighten
A few of the best hybrid radiofrequency microneedling devices that promise enhanced results
Here come the brands
Discover some of the suppliers you can connect with at Olympia Beauty 2023 on October 15–16, with exclusive show offers and discounts you can’t get anywhere else
Going live
With three packed programmes, the live education at Olympia Beauty promises insight and innovation whatever your specialism
Challenge Yourself
Looking to put your skills to the test as a nail tech or massage therapist? Compete in the Nail and Massage Competitions at Olympia Beauty to get recognised as one of the best in the business
Paws for thought
The number of dog-friendly locations is on the rise, but should beauty businesses follow suit? Ellen Cummings explores whether you should allow pooches alongside pampering
Out of the wood
Wood therapy is the Brazilian body sculpting technique everyone is talking about. Kezia Parkins gets the expert lowdown
Merry and Bright
A first look at the professional brands’ festive gift offerings to help you plan your seasonal retailing
Inclusivity means salon success!
The National Hair and Beauty Foundation breaks down why embracing inclusivity is one of the keys to salon success
The truth about blue light
Despite being used in a number of beauty treatments, blue light is also commonly pointed to as a cause of some health concerns. Ellen Cummings asks the experts whether blue light is really bad for you
True to life
A strong brand is vital to attract the right clients. Brand marketing expert Ruth Zawoda Clea explains how to align your brand with your mission to increase authenticity and customer loyalty
In the kit with... Maria Rylott-Byrd
The corneotherapist and co-founder of Skin Professionals UK shares her five favourite products from her 30-plus years in the industry
Lift Up
Treatments to lift and tone the skin and muscles on both face and body come under the spotlight this month
Nailed it
The latest launches include new nail collections, and innovative technologies to take your treatments to the next level
Share your story
Élan Laser Clinics chief executive Anna McCartney on the power of sharing stories when it comes to skin surveillance
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