4 mins
FACIALISTS’ skin secrets
Ever wanted to ask leading facialists their best-kept secret, or their most sought-after skincare advice? Lollie Hancock has the answers
When you’ve been working with skin for as long as the likes of Dija Ayodele, Abigail James, Lisa Franklin, Kate Kerr, Shane Cooper and Su-Man Hsu, you learn a trick or two to take your treatments to the next level.
To help pick up some tips and tricks from the masters of the field, we quizzed six of the industry’s top facialists about the questions they are asked the most and their top tips.
Never stop learning – Abigail James
As an award-winning aesthetician, Abigail James must stay on top of new trends and techniques, which is why her top tip for beauty therapists is to never stop learning.
“Invest in your education and continued learning,” shares James. “The more knowledge you have, the more confident you will be as a therapist and the better you can support your clients. We never stop learning.”
In terms of advice to pass on to clients, she says, “I tell clients to amp up their homecare with some results-driven skincare and make facial treatments a commitment to their ageing process.”
Consistency is vital – Dija Ayodele
For founder of the Black Skin Directory and author of Black Skin Dija Ayodele, who has treated skin health for a decade, consistency is the key to getting your clients the best results possible.
“My number-one tip for anyone getting treatments is to be consistent and regular,” shares Ayodele. “You should help your client to build a plan based around having a professional treatment with you every four-to-six weeks, based on their skin concerns and needs.
“This means you are working with the natural turnover of their skin cells, which is around 28 days. This consistency is so important, because that is what helps to not only build, but also maintain the results you are looking for,” she adds.
“If you slip off the four-to-six-week regime occasionally, the strength you have built up in your skin from your consistency otherwise will tide you over. If you stray outside the four-tosix-week pattern too much, however, you will lose the results you have been working on.”
Take time and use tech – Lisa Franklin
Having suffered from rosacea herself, Lisa Franklin is passionate about skin and finding solutions to concerns through her treatments and products. The question put to the award-winning skincare expert most often is: “How can I look younger without the use of injections, filler and surgery?” For Franklin, time is the most important aspect of achieving this. “When clients give me and my team the time, we can give them the results. Make them aware that, just like going to the gym, you won’t see drastic results after one gym class. But if you go consistently, the results will come,” shares Franklin. “Remind your clients that investing time in their skin will provide the results.” Technology also comes into play, as Franklin integrates tech into many of her treatments. “At my flagship clinic in Knightsbridge, we have the latest technology to rival any injection or surgery. We believe in feeding the muscle, not freezing it. All killer, no filler.”
Focus on cell function – Kate Kerr
With over two decades’ experience in skin treatment and rejuvenation, Kate Kerr knows a thing or two about skin.
Her top tip for facialists highlights her passion about skin, as Kerr encourages beauty therapists and facialists to “treat the skin as a whole organ, ensuring each cell type is functioning optimally, rather than just treating client concerns”.
When it comes to treating the skin, Kerr wants to create strong, resilient skin that is functioning perfectly. To achieve this, she recommends “ensuring the barrier is strong and intact, the cell turnover has been optimised, as has cell function, sebum production regulated, melanocytes stabilised, fibroblasts stimulated, and the skin is hydrating itself effectively”.
Kerr’s top tip to achieve this is to stop using moisturiser, which, she says, “sends a signal down to its water reservoirs that there is plenty of moisture in the upper layers of the skin and to halt production”. She adds, “This makes skin sluggish and lacking in moisture, making us reach for more moisturiser, exacerbating the issue.”
Stimulate blood flow and energy – Su-Man Hsu
Su-Man’s background training in pilates, shiatsu and traditional Chinese facial massage has led her to incorporate a lot of movement into her treatments – which happens to be her top tip.
“Our bodies are designed to move, and have to have enough movement to function,” she explains. “However, movement is not just about burning calories. It balances and stimulates every aspect of our physiology.
“Physical activity can help reduce many age-related chronic illnesses as well as improving our physical and mental health and our general wellbeing,” she explains, adding, “When I’m treating my clients with my facials, I immediately see the youthfulness coming back to their face as my technique is all about movement which stimulates the blood flow and the energy Qi flow. It’s the key to preserving the skin.”
Tailor your approach – Shane Cooper
Shane Cooper’s top tip for treating clients is simple: tailor your treatments. “I would definitely say to make sure you have a unique tailored approach to each individual,” he says. “The one-size-fits-all approach is something I’ve never gone by as, personally, I don’t think is right. For me, it’s all about making everything completely tailored and bespoke – it’s almost like having a big box of tools for every job that you’re going to be doing so you’re able to treat everyone.”