THE HOME needling trend

In the second in our TikTok Truths series, Ellen Cummings looks at the rise of non-professionals doing microneedling and how beauty therapists can communicate the risks of DIY treatments to clients

With microneedling usually being at the higher end of the price list on beauty business’ treatment menus and multiple sessions recommended for best results, some people have taken matters into their own hands, carrying out microneedling at home to cut costs and demonstrating the treatment on social media channels such as TikTok.

“Home microneedling devices are used to mimic or enhance the results of professional microneedling procedures,” explains Jody Taylor, founder of SkinDeep Clinic in Epworth and a microneedling specialist. “They are designed to have the same benefits as professional devices to improve acne, ageing concerns, scarring and to enhance skin.”

While some trained professionals sell home-use devices to clients to maintain treatment results, it is also possible for the public to buy a huge variety of devices online, including rollers, stamps, and pens with a needle cartridge. “These come in varying needle lengths, from 0.15mm up to 2mm, and prices start from as little as £15,” says Taylor.

Quality of treatments

While people carrying out their own microneedling at home might be saving themselves money, are they getting the same standard of treatment? The short answer is no.

“Professional in-clinic treatments are performed by trained therapists who know the skin and its responses to treatment applications,” says Joanne Leahy, head of training at 3D Aesthetics. “Professional devices can also contain other technologies to enhance the results of microneedling; for example, radiofrequency.”

Dr Ahmed El Muntasar, GP and advanced facial aesthetic doctor, adds, “Professional treatment is much more precise because we use machines and devices where how deep the needle goes is very calculated.

“Plus, we make sure that the needles go in and out at a 90-degree angle, whereas with home dermal rollers, the needles could go in at one angle and leave at another, so it doesn’t leave perfectly straight lines on the skin – it can leave wedges.”

In addition to more precise techniques, the devices used are also very different. Rhiannon Smith, training manager at Lynton Lasers, says, “Typically, home-use devices have shallower needles, whereas needling carried out in a clinical environment uses longer depths that are more effective for treating concerns such as acne scarring, stretchmarks, wrinkles and skin laxity. Devices used in clinics have also usually been through rigorous testing.”

Taylor adds that professional devices may have a class IIb medical device conformity from the Medicines and Healthcare products Regulatory Agency (MHRA). “The MHRA is responsible for ensuring that medical devices meet standards of safety, quality and efficacy, she says. “The needle cartridge used in these devices will ensure no backflow of fluids into the main device, the needles are made from surgical steel and are contained in sterile packaging with needles supplied for single use only.”

" Professional IN-CLINIC TREATMENTS are performed by trained THER APISTS who know THE SKIN and its responses to treatment APPLICATIONS "

Associated risks

Another big difference between professional and at-home microneedling is the increased risk of complications when treatment is carried out by someone who isn’t trained or qualified and may be using a sub-standard device.

“There are many risks from at-home needling,” explains Taylor. “The main concern is that needles are often reused, cheaply made or blunt – these needles will not puncture the skin with the same efficacy as a professional needle, putting the consumer at risk of scarring, infection and other adverse reactions.”

Smith adds that “there have also been reports of needles from home-use devices breaking away from the device and lodging themselves in the skin”.

Meanwhile, Taylor continues, “Many consumers are unaware of contraindications to microneedling treatment and may carry out these procedures at home when really they are unsuitable, leading to further skin complaints.”

Contraindications for microneedling include active acne, eczema, psoriasis and pregnancy, among others. The products used by consumers to glide the microneedling device over the skin or which they’re aiming to get the skin to absorb may cause as many issues as the device, with Taylor explaining that people are risking “granulomas, allergic reactions, scarring, pigmentation and infections”.

Although platforms like TikTok and YouTube are rife with people offering advice on needling techniques, beauty professionals are well aware that training isn’t as easy as watching a five-minute video. Taylor says, “Microneedling is an aesthetic therapist Level 4 qualification progression course for therapists with a NVQ Level 3 or equivalent in beauty therapy. These units have been designed for those who wish to progress as a skin specialist.”

Communicating risks to clients

In the age of DIY treatments and skincare hacks, some clients might think microneedling is simple enough to do themselves after they’ve gone down a TikTok rabbit hole. The experts have several tips on how to persuade clients that professional microneedling treatments are safer than using a device they’ve picked up online.

“Therapists can explain that the treatment performed in a professional environment is controlled and monitored, keeping the client safe and enabling the therapists to achieve the best results possible,” says Leahy.

Taylor comments, “When I’ve had a client who has expressed an interest in carrying out at-home procedures such as microneedling, I have always explained the differences in the quality of the devices available, why the treatment is different and the risks it can pose. I give the client options of suitable products or other at-home devices they can use to promote the in-house treatments they have.”

Explaining the potential risks of non-professional microneedling is key to helping clients make an informed decision. Dr El Muntasar says, “Basically, [therapists should] tell clients they can cause a lot more damage to the skin than good. If the device is not sanitised properly then infections can occur.

“If the client is a person of colour, they can end up causing a lot of pigmentation because they’re creating trauma to the surface of the skin and the skin can produce melanin around it. If they have active spots, they can cause scarring and the pus of the spots can spread infections. Microneedling can be very traumatising if it’s not done right.”

However, some clients might still choose to do their own microneedling with equipment and guidance that they have received from a trained professional. Samantha Kendrew, training and development manager at Gerrard International, explains, “For safe use at home, all needle lengths need to stay below 0.5mm so as to not pierce the skin. If needles pierce the skin the risk of reactions or issues are greatly increased, and this must be performed by a trained professional.

“It is important therapists complete a full consultation to ensure clients are suitable for microneedling, especially if they are planning to perform it at home. I would advise any therapist to be completely honest with clients about the risks and offer details about the best aftercare.”