WHAT IS slugging?

As one of the most searched for skincare hacks on TikTok, “slugging” seems to be taking over your clients’ routines. Ellen Cummings asks the experts for their opinions on the trend

People slathering their skin in petroleum jelly, otherwise known as “slugging”, is seeing a resurgence on social media, currently the fourth most searched for beauty trend on video platform TikTok.

Used as the final step in a skincare routine, slugging has been hailed by some as a glow-giving miracle – but what effect does it actually have on your clients’ skin?

How does slugging work?

“Slugging is the process of applying an occlusive product – typically overnight – to your skin,” explains Claire Williams, founder of Wow Facial.

“Occlusives are oils and waxes that form a physical layer on your skin to help protect it and aid in healing.

“When you apply a thick layer of an occlusive agent like Vaseline or Aquaphor, you’re preventing water loss and dehydration of the skin — which is referred to as transepidermal water loss in dermatology.”

Williams adds, “The primary benefit of slugging is to improve the skin barrier function and prevent transepidermal water loss. By sealing the skin with an ointment, [people] can help prevent and minimise this water loss.

“Locking in this moisture is what keeps your skin hydrated, which makes for a plump and more youthful appearance.” Advanced facial aesthetic doctor Ahmed El Muntasar adds, “Slugging forms a layer that stops oxygen coming onto the skin, which is actually the main cause of dehydration.”

Slugging’s potential benefits don’t end there though. “The occlusive barrier that these products create doesn’t just generally help your skin health,” comments Williams.

“Slugging can also work to make your other skincare products more effective. Applying product beneath the occlusive barrier theoretically helps your other skincare products, such as serums, penetrate more deeply because they won’t evaporate.”

What are the drawbacks?

This all makes slugging sound like a skincare saviour, but that may not be the reality for everyone; clients who have oily or acne-prone skin could suffer from more breakouts if they try slugging.

Dr Tara Francis, advanced facial aesthetician and founder of Enhance by Dr Tara in London, explains, “With all this being said, the best candidates for slugging would be those with sensitive and dry skin, not acne-prone or oily skin.

“Why? As well as preventing water loss and sealing the skin’s barrier, slugging can also cause more acne, trap dead skin and increase oil.”

Consultant dermatologist Dr Malvina Cunningham agrees: “Used for dry skin conditions, slugging can be very helpful. However, using an emollient such as Vaseline and applying a thick layer to your skin when you are prone to breakouts can do the opposite and be too occlusive, leading to worsening breakouts.”

Acne breakouts aren’t the only possible issue with slugging, with increased milia also being a common complaint.

Williams explains, “When applied to delicate areas, like under the eyes, slugging could cause milia, which are small, painless white bumps that appear when keratin gets trapped beneath the skin’s surface.

“Milia occur more commonly when people are using a heavy product around the eyelid or the eye area. For that reason, I wouldn’t recommend using the technique on the entire face – only focus instead on treating particularly dry spots.”

"The best CANDIDATES FOR SLUGGING would be those with SENSITIVE AND DRY SKIN, not ACNE-PRONE or OILY SKIN"

Are there any skincare alternatives?

If slugging isn’t working for your clients, don’t worry – there are simple alternatives. In fact, “a deep, quality moisturiser could do the exact same thing”, says Dr El Muntasar.

Dr Cunningham also recommends substituting slugging with a moisturiser. “Particularly if your clients have combination skin or skin prone to breakouts, I recommend staying away from slugging and to use a smart moisturiser instead that is packed with humectants that help hydrate the skin.

“Look out for glycerine, shea butter, hyaluronic acid, ceramides and niacinamide, which are some of the most commonly used, but there are many others.”

The verdict

Although slugging might be beneficial for clients suffering from dry and dehydrated skin, people with acne-prone skin should steer clear.

Dr Cunningham says, “As with all trends in skincare, slugging is not personalised, and your clients need to know whether it’s right for them. For many skin types, slugging is likely not a good idea.”