ASK THE EXPERTS | Pocketmags.com

COPIED
4 mins

ASK THE EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

How can I effectively treat rosacea using LED?

Rosacea and sensitive skin can be treated with blue light. Well documented for its anti-inflammatory effects and its skin healing abilities, blue LED has the most superficial wavelength at around 415nm. It destroys cutibacterium (formerly known as propionibacterium, present in P.acnes) and inhibits the growth of the stratum corneum. However, you can also treat a fragile, sensitive skin differently. This is when yellow LED becomes your treatment hero. I’m not talking about mixed light (red and green to produce yellow) but pure, high-density, monochromatic yellow LED. It is one of the longer wavelengths, penetrating the skin to 590nm. This is the depth of the skin where the nerve supply and lymphocytes are, where we’re able to treat sensitive skin most effectively.

As well as its calming and soothing action, yellow LED reduces congestion and stimulates the production of lymphocytes to remove the toxins that the blood can’t handle. It has a profound effect on the skin when treating sensitivity and rosacea.

For ultimate results, use red LED in conjunction with yellow. The benefit of this combination is to re-energise the cells, bringing better skin function, including regeneration and renewal. Now, you are able to treat sensitivity and rosacea and offer age-defence benefits.

To amplify the effect of LED further, a new generation of light-activated skincare is available when treating sensitive skin and rosacea. The use of light-activated colloidal silver has an antibacterial, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effect. It’s a powerful anti-microbial against staphylococcus aureus, which is present in acne rosacea. Along with this ingredient, other calcium-rich ingredients are a must when treating rosacea.

Cells need oxygen for their ability to function and be healthy. Oxygen is provided by the microcirculation. During the onset of rosacea, cells become “suffocated”, and this is because there is a lack of calcium in the cells, which leads to a lack of oxygen and oxygenated blood.

The microcirculation becomes restricted, resulting in a lack of oxygen reaching the cells. So, you then see superficial redness and flushing and the development of rosacea begins.

For enhanced results on rosacea, Katherine Daniels’ Photo-Dynamic Therapy system combines hands-on treatment and medical-grade technology, including skin resurfacing, dynamic light-activated skincare, phototherapy and a prescriptive homecare routine.

Kirsti Shuba is co-founder of Katherine Daniels. She has more than 30 years’ experience in the beauty industry and is passionate about science in skincare.



What happens to the skin when it’s stressed and how can I treat it in salon?

Stress has a profound impact on the skin, leading to long- and short-term changes. When we are going through a stressful time, we see this physically reflected in the look and feel of our skin.

Evolving research is revealing a close relationship between the brain and the skin. When our bodies experience stress, the brain triggers the release of a specific set of hormones. The skin not only responds to the hormones released elsewhere in the body, but it also secretes them itself in response to the stress. Stress hormones cortisol and adrenaline act directly on the skin and can alter skin cell growth, increase sebum and inflammation, and impair the skin’s immunity.

In the short term, stress hormones can be beneficial, helping us deal with perceived threats efficiently. However, with prolonged exposure to stress – this includes emotional, physical, chemical and even external from pollution – the whole system becomes dysregulated. One of the impacts of this is the sustained production of cortisol.

Compounded over time, high concentrations of cortisol are shown to compromise immunity and skin barrier function. This can result in a dull, fatigued appearance and aggravated signs of ageing such as lines, wrinkles and loss of elasticity. It has also been directly linked to both the development and flare ups of skin conditions such as acne, eczema and psoriasis.

DNA damage, shortening of telomeres and glycation may also be triggered by the skin’s response to stress. Research suggests the body’s inflammatory response to psychological stress is one of the factors causing free radical damage, which is thought to be responsible for many of the signs of ageing.

Stressed skin can be soothed with relaxing treatments that help the mind unwind at the same time, but therapists and clients should combine active skincare products with targeted ingredients that treat the visible signs of stress.

Antioxidants are crucial in helping to protect the skin from free radical damage and environmental aggressors. The new Environ Focus Care Youth+ Malachite-NP Complex Seriénce Night Serum was formulated by our research and development team with a powerful antioxidant, malachite extract, which is proven to boost skin immunity and defend against environmental stressors.

To combat the visible signs of stress, incorporating specific peptides into your skincare routine can help soothe tension and soften expression lines. Within our newest Focus Care Youth+ night serum innovation, we use all-in-one peptide argireline amplified, which targets the effects of fatigue and relaxes expression muscles, and matrixyl morphomics which helps smooth the appearance of lines while assisting to re-establish vital skin connections and structural support.

Peptides in combination with antioxidants and de-stressors used at night can be an effective way to soothe stressed skin so that your clients wake up refreshed and radiant.

Dr Des Fernandes is founder and scientific director of professional skincare brand Environ, where he researches and develops new products.



DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?

Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

This article appears in August 2021

Go to Page View
This article appears in...
August 2021
Go to Page View
EDITOR’S COMMENT
This month, we’ve been busy here at PBHQ,
NEWS
Skinimalism trend set to drive global skincare market
PROFESSIONALBEAUTY.CO.UK
We take a look inside PB’s digital world
AHEAD OF SCHEDULE
It can be hard to manage both a salon and its online presence. Salon social media expert Debbie Lewis outlines how to batch, schedule and strategise, to create a social media plan you actually have time for
HELPING HANDS
With constant hand washing and sanitising, therapists are more prone to skin conditions and allergies. Matt Taylor, brand and education manager at Eve Taylor London, explains how to care for our hardworking hands
THE NATION'S FINEST
The scores are in and the shortlist for the Professional Beauty Awards 2021 can now be revealed
INSIDER BEAUTY
Our exclusive monthly benchmarking stats for each sector of the market
INSIDER SPA
OLIVER BONAS Making sure you have a steady
INSIDER NAILS
PRETTY LITTLE THING Upskilling is the word of
FINDING BALANCE
As lapsed clients return to salons and spas, we have a unique opportunity to maximise on their need for downtime and professional care, writes Hellen Ward
ASK THE EXPERTS
Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business
TALKING TO… KATHERINE FLOOD
PB’s Therapist of the Year 2020 tells Eleanor Vousden what it takes to stay at the top of your game, balancing a career with motherhood and the challenges facing therapists today
FALL HEADFIRST INTO AUTUMN
AW21 is a tale of two halves when it comes to nail art. From subtle hints of colour to attention-grabbing retro designs, Melanie Macleod uncovers the trends
GET THE LOOK
Translate the trends from catwalk to client with these AW21 colour collections from the pro nail brands
COLOUR CODE
Featuring influences from the ’90s and bold pops of colour, pro make-up artist Tamara Tott outlines the key make-up trends set to be popular with clients next season
THE HOT LIST
Looking to be inspired? Amanda Pauley explores eight of this year’s best beauty industry book and podcast releases to help get you motivated
TAKE COVER
If you have selfemployed therapists or techs working in your salon or spa, do you need to provide cover for them? Insurance specialist Christina Ryan explains
FAST & EFFECTIVE
Launches this month include faster lash and brow systems and deep-cleansing, anti-ageing facials
SMART SKINCARE
Launches this month include industry-leading sun protection, hydrating skincare and a chakra-balancing eye mask
WHAT MAKES A GREAT SALON BRAND?
A standout salon brand is more than just a logo and colours. Salon software provider Beu explains
ADVANCED NOTICE
Emma Bennett, owner of Skin Warrior, Beckenham, tells us why advanced technologies could be the key to your treatment rooms’ future success
Looking for back issues?
Browse the Archive >

Previous Article Next Article