Professional Beauty
Professional Beauty



How can I effectively treat rosacea using LED?

Rosacea and sensitive skin can be treated with blue light. Well documented for its anti-inflammatory effects and its skin healing abilities, blue LED has the most superficial wavelength at around 415nm. It destroys cutibacterium (formerly known as propionibacterium, present in P.acnes) and inhibits the growth of the stratum corneum. However, you can also treat a fragile, sensitive skin differently. This is when yellow LED becomes your treatment hero. I’m not talking about mixed light (red and green to produce yellow) but pure, high-density, monochromatic yellow LED. It is one of the longer wavelengths, penetrating the skin to 590nm. This is the depth of the skin where the nerve supply and lymphocytes are, where we’re able to treat sensitive skin most effectively.

As well as its calming and soothing action, yellow LED reduces congestion and stimulates the production of lymphocytes to remove the toxins that the blood can’t handle. It has a profound effect on the skin when treating sensitivity and rosacea.

For ultimate results, use red LED in conjunction with yellow. The benefit of this combination is to re-energise the cells, bringing better skin function, including regeneration and renewal. Now, you are able to treat sensitivity and rosacea and offer age-defence benefits.

To amplify the effect of LED further, a new generation of light-activated skincare is available when treating sensitive skin and rosacea. The use of light-activated colloidal silver has an antibacterial, antiseptic and anti-inflammatory effect. It’s a powerful anti-microbial against staphylococcus aureus, which is present in acne rosacea. Along with this ingredient, other calcium-rich ingredients are a must when treating rosacea.

Cells need oxygen for their ability to function and be healthy. Oxygen is provided by the microcirculation. During the onset of rosacea, cells become “suffocated”, and this is because there is a lack of calcium in the cells, which leads to a lack of oxygen and oxygenated blood.

The microcirculation becomes restricted, resulting in a lack of oxygen reaching the cells. So, you then see superficial redness and flushing and the development of rosacea begins.

For enhanced results on rosacea, Katherine Daniels’ Photo-Dynamic Therapy system combines hands-on treatment and medical-grade technology, including skin resurfacing, dynamic light-activated skincare, phototherapy and a prescriptive homecare routine.

Kirsti Shuba is co-founder of Katherine Daniels. She has more than 30 years’ experience in the beauty industry and is passionate about science in skincare.

What happens to the skin when it’s stressed and how can I treat it in salon?

Stress has a profound impact on the skin, leading to long- and short-term changes. When we are going through a stressful time, we see this physically reflected in the look and feel of our skin.

Evolving research is revealing a close relationship between the brain and the skin. When our bodies experience stress, the brain triggers the release of a specific set of hormones. The skin not only responds to the hormones released elsewhere in the body, but it also secretes them itself in response to the stress. Stress hormones cortisol and adrenaline act directly on the skin and can alter skin cell growth, increase sebum and inflammation, and impair the skin’s immunity.

In the short term, stress hormones can be beneficial, helping us deal with perceived threats efficiently. However, with prolonged exposure to stress – this includes emotional, physical, chemical and even external from pollution – the whole system becomes dysregulated. One of the impacts of this is the sustained production of cortisol.

Compounded over time, high concentrations of cortisol are shown to compromise immunity and skin barrier function. This can result in a dull, fatigued appearance and aggravated signs of ageing such as lines, wrinkles and loss of elasticity. It has also been directly linked to both the development and flare ups of skin conditions such as acne, eczema and psoriasis.

DNA damage, shortening of telomeres and glycation may also be triggered by the skin’s response to stress. Research suggests the body’s inflammatory response to psychological stress is one of the factors causing free radical damage, which is thought to be responsible for many of the signs of ageing.

Stressed skin can be soothed with relaxing treatments that help the mind unwind at the same time, but therapists and clients should combine active skincare products with targeted ingredients that treat the visible signs of stress.

Antioxidants are crucial in helping to protect the skin from free radical damage and environmental aggressors. The new Environ Focus Care Youth+ Malachite-NP Complex Seriénce Night Serum was formulated by our research and development team with a powerful antioxidant, malachite extract, which is proven to boost skin immunity and defend against environmental stressors.

To combat the visible signs of stress, incorporating specific peptides into your skincare routine can help soothe tension and soften expression lines. Within our newest Focus Care Youth+ night serum innovation, we use all-in-one peptide argireline amplified, which targets the effects of fatigue and relaxes expression muscles, and matrixyl morphomics which helps smooth the appearance of lines while assisting to re-establish vital skin connections and structural support.

Peptides in combination with antioxidants and de-stressors used at night can be an effective way to soothe stressed skin so that your clients wake up refreshed and radiant.

Dr Des Fernandes is founder and scientific director of professional skincare brand Environ, where he researches and develops new products.


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This article appears in the August 2021 Issue of Professional Beauty

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This article appears in the August 2021 Issue of Professional Beauty