ASK THE EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

How can I tailor semi-permanent make-up treatments to clients with hair loss?

“I started my career offering treatments within hair salons and it was while being in this environment that I became more exposed to the sensitivity of hair loss for both men and women. I have clients coming to me for a number of treatments but the most common are scalp micropigmentation, and permanent eyebrow and eyeliner make-up. That said, they all want the same thing, which is to feel good and more confident about themselves, and what an honour it is to be able to create such a thing.

“When I’m working with a client who is experiencing hair loss, I ensure there’s an in-depth consultation to really know more about them, their medical history, style and the results they are looking for. Unfortunately, on some occasions I can’t provide micropigmentation to a client after the consultation, which is why they are so important – for example, if a client is pregnant, waiting on a diagnosis or suffering with certain cases of alopecia where pigment would not hold. When this does happen, I will offer an alternative doctor or option because it is important that I offer the safest standard of care to everyone.

“Every micropigmentation treatment is tailored around the client. No treatment, shape or design is the same and no one shape fits all. For example, some people have small areas or patches of hair loss, while others have no hair at all. I always suggest a more natural finish to clients, especially those who are having permanent make-up for the first time. I want my work to look the best it can, and I want clients to look and feel the same way too.

“That said, some women and men, especially those who are going through a transitional phase of chemotherapy or radiotherapy, don’t always want micropigmentation on the brows to cover the sparse areas, and instead opt for a natural eyeliner to create definition and shape around the eyes.

“Permanent eyeliner is wonderful when lashes are no longer present – you are not only framing the shape of the face, but opening the eyes and creating density.

When working with a client with hair loss, the important thing during treatment is that they feel comfortable and confident in the service you are providing.

Design, shape and colour is all agreed collaboratively and it’s important to consider their medical conditions (if any), as well as their daily make-up and skincare routine and, ultimately, their wishes.”

Gina Collins owns Gina Collins Cosmetic Academy and Gina Collins Beauty Clinic. She has 25 years of industry experience and is an expert in micropigmentation.

Which supplements and ingredients help the mechanisms of ageing best?

“With ageing, regenerative processes in the body that were once swift and efficient begin to slow down, molecular and cellular damage starts to accumulate, and the risk of disease increases. We see the impact of ageing clearly on the skin, which becomes thin, rough and dry. It can take on a sallow tinge, and damage to blood vessels leads to spider veins. We tend to develop irregular pigmentation and wrinkles, skin starts to sag and the risk of skin cancer increases.

“Ageing is a complex process and many theories have been developed to explain the changes that occur. Over time, telomeres – the protective caps at the end of each strand of DNA – shorten, leading to DNA damage. Many of these cells stop replicating permanently (known as cellular senescence) and stem cells lose the ability to replace them. Tissues become unable to regenerate.

“There is also a decrease in the functioning of mitochondria, the powerhouses of the cell, leading to oxidative stress, a major contributor to age-related changes. All of these mechanisms lead to “inflammaging” – the chronic low-grade inflammation that characterises diseases of ageing such as heart disease, arthritis and Alzheimer’s, as well as many age-related changes in skin.

“While healthy behaviours, such as exercise, managing stress, a good night’s sleep and quality diet are essential to minimise the impact of ageing, there is growing research on therapies that target the mechanisms of ageing. Ingredients that show potential include vitamin A, which improves DNA repair and may decrease telomere attrition, delaying senescence. Omega 3 fatty acids have been shown to decrease inflammation and oxidative stress, and increase telomere length. These ingredients can all be found in Advanced Nutrition Programme’s Skin Ultimate. Lastly, beneficial bacteria, such as those in Skin Youth Biome, reduce inflammation and support the immune system.

As well as acting on the mechanisms of ageing directly, these ingredients provide a host of other benefits that counteract the effects of ageing on the skin – two worth highlighting are vitamins A and C. In addition to its role in DNA repair, vitamin A normalises the growth and differentiation of keratinocytes, leading to a thicker epidermis, increases the quality of collagen and elastin produced, increases production of hyaluronic acid, and improves the skin’s immune system.

“Vitamin C is an antioxidant that regulates pigmentation, strengthens capillary walls and is an essential co-factor in building collagen.” When combined, these benefits lead to plumper, smoother skin with even pigmentation and fewer wrinkles.

Dr Gaby Prinsloo is the new medical director at the International Institute of Anti-Ageing (IIAA). She has studied functional medicine, nutrition, meditation, mindfulness, psychology and sleep.