We explore the trends set to impact clients’ nail art and colour choices for spring/summer 2018 and the pro brands’ new SS18 colours techs need to translate them

FEATHER LIGHT

Shiaparelli

Gelish

Ralph & Russo

@nicoles_nails

@lanneasnails_spraytan

@okiemamanails

Ralph & Russo

Topshop

Sophia Stylianou and iZ for Paul Costelloe

@liliumzz

Feathers proved a favourite among designers looking to create texture on the SS18 catwalks, making these trimmings hot for the coming season. Saint Laurent, Givenchy and Ralph & Russo all worked feathers into their collections. Whether they were a subtle addition to footwear, or used all over on a statement piece of couture, feathers made a continuous appearance.

Transforming this trend to nails makes for beautifully intricate nail art. You can choose to spread the design across every finger or add it to an accent nail for a more wearable look that still has the wow factor. The trend is perfect for spring and summer as it can be layered with any colour, but it makes an extra statement in black over a spring staple pastel.

KIT BAG

Feather nail art usually begins with a pretty neutral such as In My Zone from Artistic’s Mud, Sweat and Tears SS18 line, or a pale pastel like Jessica’s Lavender Lush or almost-white Lavish. Experiment by using a strong but natural colour for the feather detail, such as the bold green Envy from The Edge Nails’ Annika SS18 collection or Margaret Dabbs’s new Cornflower shade. Using a shimmer like Morgan Taylor’s new My Other Wig is a Tiara will create soft, feathery edges, or you could even try a super-fine glitter such as Lecente’s Peach Ombre Powder to achieve the effect

TASSEL TRIMS

Another key texture covering the runway this season was Tassels, flowing from head to toe in a variety of fabrics or kept simple in subtle fringe detailing. Chanel favoured plaid tassels on the catwalk, while Acne went for floaty fringing cascading from crochet dresses and Ralph and Russo opted for chic floor-length tassels, adding animation to muted pastels and black and white. These tassels translate best to nails through fine line detailing that cascades either upwards from the cuticle or down from the free edge. Instead of stripes from top to bottom, use light strokes that fade out for a tassel-like effect. The intensity of this trend can be placed in your clients’ hands, with the freedom to select any shimmer, solid or matte colour combination to pull it off.

KIT BAG

If you’re going for the waterfall effect any combination goes. Bold pastels like Morgan Taylor’s All the Queen’s Bling, Gelish’s Ruffle Those Feathers or the pale aqua Taffy from CND’s Chic Shock collection will create a strong base, or create a truly blank canvas with a superpale pink such as Jessica’s Cheeky. Try layering with metallic shades for the tassels such as Golden Buddha from LCN’s summer Night Out in Bangkok collection or iZ Beauty’s shimmery Sapphire Stone. If you want all the tassel with none of the hassle, try Snowflake Frosting from Biosculpture’s Dreamers collection, which contains pretty strands

RUBBERISED TEXTURE

Designers were all over rubberised materials this season. This spring/summer trend has evolved from the vinyl craze that hit in autumn to become bright, bold and impossible to miss. Full-on rubber clothing was a favourite for Balenciaga, Dior, Givenchy and Fenty, as well as Calvin Klein, where the thick material was gathered with drawstrings to create shape.

Converting this trend to the nails makes for a simple yet stunning finish. Use your brightest statement colours like red, orange, yellow, shocking pink and royal blue. Experiment with a two-tone or ombré finish to add depth and be sure to finish it off with your glossiest, most hard-wearing topcoat for added rubber-like shine that lasts.

KIT BAG

The rubber trend is all about going bold so the hot pinks of Gellux’s Helter Skelter, Artistic’s Wo-Man Up and Gelish’s All the Heart Desires are the perfect starting point. If your clients prefer a bright red or orange, check out OPI’s We Seafood and Eat It, from the Lisbon collection, LCN’s new Red Lips shade or Wild Side from The Edge Nails’ Annika line. For something a little less in your face, CND’s bright pastel-yellow Jellied or Biosculpture’s bright Aqua Clouds give the trend a lighter spring twist.

TRANSPARENT EFFECT

The catwalks were flooded with sheer fabrics and see-through accessories that brought an ethereal feel back to spring with barely-there pieces. Taking the underwear-as-outerwear trend one step further, designers including Thierry Mugler and D Squared2 layered completely sheer dresses over block-coloured underwear.

You can channel the transparent trend on clients’ nails by embracing the negative space nail art look. Skip back to page 54 for a simple way to master it. Alternatively, pick a super-sheer colour or clear polish for your base then accentuate with embellishments or glitter to replicate the look of the shimmering gossamer dresses that were seen on the Helmut Lang, Preen and Georges Hobeika catwalks – and are sure to filter through to the high street this summer.

KIT BAG

Whether you’re working on a negative space design or channelling the catwalk trend with a gossamer-fine finish, your go-to base colour is likely to be a pretty pink or nude. Reach for Gelish’s Curls Pearls, a barelythere pink, or try Jessica’s Pinkies Up for a slightly stronger shade. Gellux’s Coconut Shy offers up a peachy finish, while OPI’s Made it to the Seventh Hill and CND’s Candied give a stronger pastel-pink base. To add shimmer for that on-trend ethereal finish, try iZ Beauty’s lilac-toned Amethyst Angel or go bolder with Lecente’s Taupe ombré powder. PB