Ask the experts

Imagine this: one of your therapists comes in late for the third time in two weeks. You know they’re having some issues at home, but it’s more than that. There’s been a lack of overall motivation in the past few months.

This employee is always complaining about someone or something and you need to address this in their upcoming review, but you don’t want to lower their motivation levels even further. What do you do? Before you say anything, figure out what your objective is. Do you want to find out what is behind their recent behaviour? Do you want to find a way to increase their productivity? Do you want an apology? Depending on your choice, the conversation will veer in different directions. For example, if you want to inspire your therapist to be more productive, don’t start by pointing out their wrongdoings or demanding an apology. This may sound obvious but it is one of the most underused techniques in conversation.

Think about the person you will be speaking to, because every one of your employees is different. It’s ludicrous to think that one management strategy fits all, considering that everyone has different trigger points and motivators. Before having the tough conversation, think about who you are about to address, what makes them tick and which words are right for them.

Lastly, have a courageous conversation with yourself. There is absolutely no point in approaching a difficult situation if you don’t want to resolve it. Often, we have been so badly hurt by someone that our barriers are just too high to have a productive conversation.

In those times, a discussion turns into an excuse to argue and that’s not progress. Once you know your objective, you’re set to choose the right words and tone, which will allow your therapist to accept feedback more positively.

I want to master negative space nail art. Where do I start?

Negative space nail art has taken the UK by storm and I have two methods – beginners and more advanced – to help you create the look with ease. The first is perfect for intermediate nail techs and involves masking tape. Start by applying a sheer or nude colour to the client’s nails and cure. Then, using masking tape, block out the areas of the nail that you want to be negative space and make sure you press the tape on firmly to avoid any seepage.

With your tape neatly in place, paint the desired areas with your colour of choice and cure. Gently peel away the tape to reveal your design and finish with a top coat.

For more advanced techs I recommend doing the look freehand. Apply your sheer tone and cure, before using a fine striping brush to block out the areas to be coloured in so that you can keep your lines sharp. Then, fill them in with your chosen shade.

However, don’t overload your brush with too much product as this will make it harder to keep your design tidy – a little goes a long way. Instead of dipping your brush into the product, decant a small amount onto a palette, load your brush and then roll it to remove any excess.

And, if at first you don’t succeed, use a gel brush lightly saturated in isopropyl alcohol to clean up any errors. If you’re new to nail art, you could first try a stamping plate, such as those made by :YOURS, for a helping hand to achieve a precise nail design.

How do I perform an intimate wax on a client with mobility issues?

As a wax specialist, you will have many different types of clients come through your door – pregnant, elderly and people with reduced mobility. It’s important you know how to manage these customers and that you’ve got the tools in place.

Bolsters are brilliant for putting under clients’ hips for support and I often use them with male customers because they have a limited hip range in comparison to women. For elderly clients, try waxing one side at a time. It might take a little longer and involve some extra stretching but it gets the job done effectively and comfortably for the client.

Pregnant clients need to be positioned at a 45-degree angle during treatment and that can be quite difficult with waxing because we ask people to lie down – the flatter the client is the more everything is stretched out.

Position your client at the right angle and then ask them to gently pull up their bump before you start waxing. As the client is sitting this way, you might have to angle yourself differently or use smaller sections and a mix of stretching techniques to get a good pull on the wax, especially for hairs that are harder to reach.

How can I make it as a session make-up artist?

Being a make-up artist is a fantastic career that gives you the chance to travel the world, meet interesting people and make a living doing what you love. However, there are five traits you need to be successful:

1. Vocational training – make-up artists are expected to have hands-on experience and technical knowledge, and this is something you can’t find in a lecture hall. Vocational training gives you a taste of what it’s like to be in the industry.

2. A strong portfolio – you need to photograph everything you do. Building up a portfolio showcases all the amazing work you’ve done and you need this to land jobs.

3. Great people skills – you could be working with models, actors, designers, stylists and crew members, and that’s a lot of personalities in one place. A good make-up artist knows how to get on with everyone.

4. Plenty of stamina – the job can be tiring, so stamina (or loads of coffee) is key. You’ll be the first one on set in the morning and the last one to leave. It doesn’t always leave much time for sleep.

5. Enthusiasm – you’re going to need tons of it working in film, TV, theatre and fashion. Media is a fast-paced industry that’s hard to keep up with but promises loads of exciting experiences.

What do I need to include in my salon’s social media strategy?

A powerful social media presence has become an increasingly important way to inform and connect with clients. By executing a strategy that combines organic, user-generated and paid-for content, you can communicate your services in such an effective way.

Your strategy needs to be clear and concise – whether you’re looking to increase sales or simply engage with a new Facebook audience through targeted advertising, a strong message is key as this will reinforce your brand.

Plan your content in advance and share it regularly, showcasing your best treatments, products and services, and remember, strong visuals are important when posting as they grab people’s attention.

It’s also critical to show an approachable personality. Easy suggestions include implementing a regular question and answer session on Twitter, responding to all messages quickly and engaging with customers regarding both positive and negative feedback.

Another useful tactic is to offer the client something that makes it worth their while, whether that’s an insider tip, exclusive discount or competitions. There’s a reason social media is all about the word engagement

I want to make the move from therapist to manager. How do I do it?

Being a manger is about overseeing the business as a whole – managing a team, taking care of the operation and being responsible for the day to day. To succeed, you need to have walked in the path of the team you’re managing; hard work, determination, willingness and passion are the key credentials.

So, when you start out in the industry, you need to have a long-term plan to make the most of every opportunity. Firstly, never say no. You need to impress and prove that you can get on with it, without fuss, and this includes tasks like tidying up or doing laundry.

You should also gain knowledge of all areas of the business you are working in; you will be trusted with tasks such as stock taking, ordering, staff rotas and reception. These give you a valuable insight into how the business operates, understanding costs and controlling budgets. Never turn down an opportunity to develop your skills. As you progress, you should become more business aware and look to take courses that will support your growth, ensuring competence in areas such as computer skills, accounting, budgets, payroll and reporting.

Don’t be afraid to move to progress. If you’ve reached a stagnant point, look for roles that take you up the ladder, such as team leader, supervisor, head of beauty, manager, or director. Also, it’s OK if your career trajectory takes time; my journey from beauty student to general manager took 23 years.

How can I make my therapists confident in retailing waxing products?

Sometimes therapists are reluctant to retail, due to a lack of confidence or because they simply forget, and it’s a missed opportunity. Salon regulars will really benefit from using the correct homecare in between treatments and it’s an easy way to boost your profits.

Skin goes through some trauma when it’s waxed, so it’s completely normal for clients to experience redness, ingrown hairs and breakouts – caused by stimulation of the sebaceous gland when pulling on the follicle.

At the end of the treatment, give aftercare advice in written form, notifying clients of what they need to do, and then talk them through it.

Your clients should moisturise daily, even if they are prone to oily skin and breakouts. Recommend a light lotion that will help minimise blemishes and the appearance of ingrown hairs. Exfoliating is also a must, so talk them through your range. Remember, the client will need to avoid doing this for three to four days immediately after their wax, but should then aim to exfoliate two to three times a week after that.

By continuing with products at home post-treatment, your clients can extend the longevity and effectiveness of the result, while your business gains from repeat custom and profit.

What are the benefits of prebiotics and probiotics for skin?

To maintain a healthy-looking complexion, the most important thing is to protect and respect the skin’s delicate eco system and ensure it has a good barrier function.

A prebiotic is a substance that can enhance populations of beneficial microflora (bacteria present in the large intestine). It is effectively a fertiliser or food source for microbes, selectively stimulating the growth and/or metabolic activity of specific bacteria. In contrast, probiotics are live bacteria. In simple terms, prebiotics are the food that feed live probiotics so they flourish on the surface of the skin. A carefully cleansed and healthy skin surface is essential to keep skin in good condition.

Prebiotics are sourced from all vegetables and plants, obtained from the natural sugars sucrose and maltose. They have been shown in-vitro to stimulate the growth of beneficial resident flora, to help useful bacteria compete with the detrimental bacteria, making it harder for them to become problematic.

A prebiotic’s bio selectivity as a substrate means that it has potential as an agent to protect the skin’s ecosystem and could assist in keeping it constant or restore the balance to a normal, steady and healthy state.

How does retinol work to target the signs of ageing?

Retinol is a derivative of vitamin A and an antioxidant, which means it helps to neutralise the free radicals that destroy healthy skin cells. It is one of the most effective anti-ageing ingredients for cell regeneration and collagen production.

Retinol helps to encourage cell regeneration and ensure that new collagen continues to form as a person ages. As a result, it has been shown to reduce wrinkles and improve skin texture.

As collagen is replenished and old skin cells are shed, hyperpigmentation fades, fine lines recede and skin starts to reveal a brighter, smoother texture. There are several different retinol products available on the market, so it’s best to take the time and do your research, looking for a reputable brand that uses highquality, food-grade ingredients.

Extremely sensitive skins may find retinol irritating at first, but the key is to help clients build their tolerance over time. Advise them to introduce it slowly by using small doses of the product three times a week and then start using it more frequently from there. You could also look for a product that uses a time-released retinol which is gentler on skin, and therefore less likely to cause irritation, such as the retinol in my Retinol Youth Renewal Serum. PB