Skin inclusivity

From hyperpigmentation to professional treatment protocols, Dr Vanita Rattan tells Connie Cooper why the industry must take a more tailored approach to skin of colour

What first inspired your focus on treating skin of colour?

“The catalyst was personal. Shortly after medical school, I developed early onset melasma and realised there was very little clinical research or treatment guidance specifically for Brown skin. When I started reviewing the literature, most studies and professional treatments were designed around Caucasian skin. Even many over-the-counter products risked worsening pigmentation in darker skin tones. That experience led me to work alongside my mother’s cosmetics company and begin formulating products specifically for skin of colour. What I thought would take six months ultimately became a five-year research and development journey.”

What did that teach you about treating hyperpigmentation in darker skin tones?

“It taught me that every ingredient, concentration and combination matters. We conducted extensive testing to understand what percentages of active ingredients such as retinol could be tolerated safely in skin of colour, while still delivering results. The goal was to address stubborn pigmentation without triggering inflammation or postinflammatory hyperpigmentation. That work eventually led to the launch of the Hyperpigmentation Clinic, which specialised in treating pigmentation concerns in Black and Brown skin across multiple international locations.”

How has your work evolved since then?

“Following the pandemic, we shifted our focus from clinics to education and product development. I began sharing formulation insights directly with consumers on social media. Today, our community has grown to more than 3.5 million followers, and they play an active role in product development. Rather than creating products in isolation, I involve the community throughout the process, asking what concerns they want addressed and which ingredients interest them most. That collaborative approach has been incredibly powerful.”

You launched a facial specifically for Black and Brown skin. Why was that needed?

“Because skin of colour often behaves very differently to Caucasian skin during professional treatments. Melasma, acne, texture irregularities, dullness and fine lines are among the most common concerns we see. However, the treatment protocols that work safely on lighter skin can sometimes trigger pigmentation in darker skin. Even the sequence of procedures matters. For example, when combining radiofrequency and microneedling, the order should be adjusted to minimise pigmentation risk. Our facial has been designed around the biology of skin that pigments more easily and requires a more controlled, anti-inflammatory approach.”

What are some of the misconceptions about skin of colour that persist in the industry?

“The biggest misconception is that all skin can be treated the same way. Historically, dermatology education and clinical studies have overwhelmingly focused on lighter skin, meaning many practitioners simply haven't received adequate training. Understanding pigmentation pathways, inflammation and melanocyte behaviour is essential.”

What adjustments should therapists make when treating skin of colour?

“The first priority is protecting the melanocyte and minimising inflammation. Practitioners should avoid aggressive or excessive exfoliation and be cautious with treatments that create unnecessary trauma. Therapists should assess previous use of hydroquinone, history of keloid scarring, diabetes, medications and how the skin responds to ingredients such as retinoids. Importantly, signs of a compromised skin barrier may not present in the same way they do on Caucasian skin.”

Looking to deepen your understanding of skin of colour? Don’t miss Dr Vanita Rattan’s live stage session at Professional Beauty London, on October 4-5 at Excel London.