Business tips

ASK THE EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

How can I help a client with peeling and splitting nails?

Peeling and splitting nails, also known as onychorrhexis, are one of the most common concerns nail professionals see in the treatment room. In many cases, this can be a completely normal part of ageing, or something that is hereditary. However, it can also be caused by repeated trauma to the nails, nutritional deficiencies, or even as a side effect of certain medications. Understanding the root cause is key, as not all cases can be “fixed”, but most can be managed and improved with the right professional care.

When working on nails that are already peeling or splitting, technique and tool choice are critical. One of the biggest causes of further damage is using a nail file that is too coarse. On the natural nail’s free edge, professionals should never use anything lower than a 240-grit file, as coarser files can cause instant splitting. Glass nail files are particularly beneficial, as their very fine grit helps to seal the free edge, reducing further peeling and splitting. They are an excellent retail recommendation for clients to use at home.

If carrying out nail enhancements such as hard gel, gel polish or acrylic, a coarser grit (around 180) can be used on the product itself. However, once the natural nail is exposed, it’s essential to switch back to a finer grit, such as 240 or 320, to avoid unnecessary trauma.

One treatment professionals should actively avoid is soaking the nails in water during a manicure. Water causes the nail plate to expand, which can worsen peeling and splitting as it dries and contracts. Waterless manicures are therefore the best option for compromised nails and are increasingly popular in professional settings.

For clients looking for immediate improvement, short press-on nails can offer temporary protection, helping to prevent further splitting while the natural nail grows out. Keeping them short is key to avoiding additional stress on the nail plate. Alongside this, hydration plays a major role. Regular use of cuticle oil helps keep the nail flexible and resilient, rather than brittle and prone to breakage. Ingredients such as vitamin E, jojoba oil and rice bran oil are particularly beneficial, while biotin supports the keratin structure of the nail.

In-salon, a builder gel manicure is one of the most effective services for clients with peeling or splitting nails. It provides protection, adds strength and allows the nail to grow out healthier over time. Recovery time varies; hereditary or age-related splitting won’t fully resolve, but can be well managed, while damage caused by improper product removal may take several months to grow out completely.

The single most important message for clients is that while peeling and splitting nails can’t always be prevented, they can almost always be improved. Regular appointments with a nail professional, combined with ongoing care between visits, can make a dramatic difference to how nails look and feel.

JULIE KANDALEC

Julie Kandalec is a celebrity manicurist based in New York. She has more than 25 years of experience and has worked with celebrities including Emily Blunt, Jessica Chastain and Camila Cabello, and is now focusing on education and mentorship.

Why does skin pH matter so much for skin health?

I rarely hear people discussing the role of pH in the skin, and yet increasing evidence suggests it is one of the most important factors impacting skin health. Staying up to date on the latest research is therefore essential when advising clients on the appropriate selection of topical products.

What is pH?

Potential of hydrogen, or pH, is simply a measure of how acidic or alkaline something is. Human skin is naturally slightly acidic, and this acidity is not incidental. It is essential for effective skin barrier formation, enzyme activity, microbial balance and the control of inflammation.

Healthy adult skin generally has a surface pH between 4 and 5.8, with consensus that healthy facial skin should sit around 4.5 to 5.5.

pH levels across the skin's layers

Just beneath the stratum corneum, the living layers of the epidermis have a near-neutral pH of around 7.4. This creates a steep two-to-three-unit pH gradient between the acidic surface and the deeper layers. This gradient is essential for forming and maintaining the skin barrier.

The slightly acidic surface activates enzymes responsible for ceramide production, including ß-glucocerebrosidase, phospholipase A2 and acid sphingomyelinase.

Ceramides are the lipids that seal the spaces between the skin cells and create a strong barrier. When the skin surface becomes more alkaline, ceramide production drops and barrier function weakens.

An acidic pH is also crucial for maintaining a healthy skin microbiome. Beneficial bacteria such as staphylococcus epidermidis thrive at a pH of around 5, while harmful bacteria including staphylococcus aureus, E. coli and pseudomonas proliferate in more alkaline conditions. As skin pH rises, the microbial balance shifts in favour of pathogenic species.

pH also acts as a key signal guiding the final stages of skin cell differentiation. As keratinocytes move upwards, they pass through pH-defined zones that activate or deactivate enzymes controlling filaggrin breakdown, lipid processing and corneocyte shedding. If the skin does not acidify properly, these processes are disrupted, leading to abnormal differentiation, thicker skin and a weaker barrier.

Consequences of disrupted pH

Research shows that skin with a pH below 5.0 has better barrier function, improved hydration and less scaling than skin with a higher pH. Elevated skin pH has been linked to inflammatory conditions such as rosacea, as well as acne and dermatitis.

Balancing pH with skincare

Topical skincare products can alter skin pH and influence the microbiome. Products formulated around pH 4 have been shown to improve barrier function more effectively than neutral or alkaline formulations. Products with a pH up to 6 are generally well tolerated, which is particularly relevant for mature skin.

Where possible, recommend skincare products with a pH below 5.5 to optimise skin health. Zinc-based sunscreens are an exception, as they are difficult to formulate below pH 7; this can be mitigated by layering with an l-ascorbic acid serum, which typically has a pH below 3.

Reputable skincare companies should disclose product pH within a narrow range, indicating good quality control. If this information cannot be provided, or only a wide range is given, caution is advised, particularly for clients with altered microbiomes, dehydrated skin, or sensitive, inflammatory conditions.

DR GINNI MANSBERG

Dr Ginni Mansberg is a physician specialising in women’s health, menopause and all things skin. She is also a GP, TV presenter, podcaster, author and co-founder and medical director of Evidence Skincare (ESK).

How can I avoid burnout by implementing structure in my business?

The year was 2014, and I was two years into owning my salon. Everything looked perfect on paper; we were booked, busy and growing. Services were high value, customer care was strong, clients were happy and my team was paid well. But behind the scenes, I was burning out fast.

Like many owners, I was wearing every hat: service provider, bookkeeper, HR manager, trainer, merchandiser, front desk and cleaner. While my team delivered good services, they showed up late, left early and didn’t consistently go the extra mile. I felt frustrated that they didn’t “just know” what I expected. In reality, the problem wasn’t them – it was that my expectations lived only in my head.

What I didn’t realise at the time was that I lacked the tools to run a sustainable business. I had technical skill, strong people skills and great customer service, but no formal understanding of profit and loss, standard operating procedures, structured training or team development. Somehow it worked for a while – until it didn’t.

The turning point came when I saw tension creeping into every corner of the salon: staff arguing over commission, clients leaving without rebooking, disengagement behind the desk. I eventually sought support and began learning how to build structure into my business. That’s when everything changed.

One of the first and most impactful shifts was documenting the client journey. I created clear, repeatable protocols from check-in to check-out so my team wasn’t improvising and I wasn’t constantly stepping in. We defined non-negotiable consultation questions, how to guide guests through services, how to educate clients on maintaining results and how to confidently secure rebooking.

This immediately improved client retention, increased confidence across the team and removed a huge amount of mental load from me as the owner. It’s now one of the first systems I recommend to salon owners who feel stretched despite full books.

The second major shift was establishing consistent communication and growth rhythms. Previously, there was no clear pathway for raises, promotions or performance discussions. Monthly one-to-ones became protected time for feedback, development and problem-solving, while quarterly reviews allowed for deeper coaching.

Most importantly, I created transparent growth pathways outlining what mastery looked like at each stage and how team members could progress. Once expectations and opportunities were visible, motivation increased and tension eased.

What surprised me most was that clear expectations didn’t scare my team – they anchored them. When I finally communicated what had lived invisibly in my mind, my team met those expectations consistently and appreciated the clarity. They hadn’t been failing; they had been aiming for a target that was never named.

“To be clear is to be kind” became my guiding principle. From that clarity came stronger systems, higher retention, increased profitability and a business that could function without me being present every day. Eventually, I stepped fully into leadership and later sold the salon at a significant profit.

I didn’t burn out because I cared too much. I burned out because I was asking my nervous system to do the job of structure. When we stop trying to be the system and start building systems that can hold us, everything changes – for our teams, our businesses and ourselves.

JENA BERENBERG

Jena Berenberg is a former salon owner who scaled and sold a seven-figure wellness business after rebuilding it through systems and financial literacy. She is now a consultant and coach, supporting salon owners in building businesses without burnout.