Interview

TALKING TO… Buster Knight

The celebrity makeup artist tells Josie Jackson about working with A-list stars, learning from his mistakes and his advice for aspiring MUAs

Buster Knight is a powerhouse within the makeup industry. His portfolio of clients now includes Millie Bobby Brown, Kaya Scodelario and Priyanka Chopra Jonas, to name just a few, while his credits have appeared in publications such as Vogue, Attitude and Hunger – however, none of this success can be attributed to luck. Having worked in the makeup industry for almost 20 years, Knight has truly immersed himself into his craft, and it’s certainly paid off.

The journey to makeup artistry

When contemplating his future as a teenager, Knight never considered a career in makeup. “I always thought I would be a hairdresser, which is funny to think about now, because I’m awful at hair,” he admits. However, with a tattoo-artist father, Knight had always admired the artistic world. While studying, he was looking for ways to generate some income, which led to him working Saturdays on a makeup counter. “I only went to the interview because I wanted a job, but following my trial, I knew makeup was something I could be good at,” he recalls.

Reflecting on his early retail experience, Knight shares that there were times he wanted to throw in the towel – but now he looks back on those years with gratitude. “I got to meet so many cool people,” he shares. “You never knew what your next client would look like. Now I’ll pick a model for a shoot and I’ll know what I’m working with, whereas back then, you had to work with whoever came in. Not only did it teach me about my craft, but also about people.”

Carving his own path

Today, Knight works as a freelance makeup artist, prompted by his desire to dictate his own schedule and structure. “I never equated art with having a set 30-minute lunch break,” he explains. With a wealth of opportunities available to freelance makeup artists, Knight also wanted to ensure he took advantage of any work that might come his way. “I wanted to travel the world, to work backstage or on movie premieres,” he says.

Knight doesn’t deny that going out on your own can be daunting. However, passion and perseverance were both key to his success. “When I started out, I would just keep reminding myself that this was the interim, and to just keep going until I got to be where I wanted.”

Building a star-studded portfolio

When Knight first started his career in makeup, Instagram didn’t exist – but as soon as it rolled out, he recognised the power of its potential. “There was finally a way to showcase my work – and to get it to as many people as possible,” he recalls.

However, Knight also has more traditional methods of communication to thank for his success, including good old-fashioned word of mouth. “You realise very quickly that Hollywood is a very small place with a very small circle of people,” he says, “and so before you know it, one person speaks to another, and you get passed along. I’m very grateful for having very generous clients who sing my praises to as many people as they do.” Working with A-list stars for shoots and red carpets is something a lot of makeup artists aspire to; if you fall under this umbrella, Knight explains that while it may sound cheesy, it’s important to remember that celebrities are just people with jobs, too. “If you go into the room thinking, ‘they’re here to work, I’m here to work,’ then I think that’s the easiest way to succeed,” he adds.

With an impressive list of career achievements under his belt, Knight explains that it’s hard to pick just one “pinch me” moment. “There’s been so many,” he says, “but I think the first of those moments was shooting a Vogue cover with Annie Leibovitz.” He recalls standing in the middle of Texas, on a vast expanse of land, surrounded by big names such as Leibovitz – and in turn feeling very small himself. Not having had the opportunity to meet the renowned photographer before the shoot, Knight felt a sense of panic when she asked who had done the makeup. “But she turned around and said, ‘this is fantastic’ and I could have died right there.”

Mastering his craft

When asked about his process when creating a look, Knight explains that often his job doesn’t require him to reinvent the wheel, especially when working with a client who already has a profile – and as such, a distinct image. “Because of this, it’s not always about creating a new look per se, but making them look like the best version of themselves,” he says. This often involves identifying your client’s signature, and building your look off of that. “For Kris Jenner, for example, the focal point is often a black smoky eye – it’s never a lip.”

However, that’s not to say clients don’t turn to Knight’s expertise for collaboration. “Millie [Bobby Brown] is much more adventurous. She’ll tell me what her reference is, or what feeling she wants to invoke, and then I’ll go away and build a mood board, and we’ll find something together,” he explains.

Then, with some clients, Knight describes how he’ll be going through the motions, and will stumble upon something that looks really good. “It’s a process; every single client, every single job, every single experience is different,” he notes.

A lesson Knight learned early on is to accept when a look isn’t going as planned – and start again. “I would prefer to spend an extra 20 minutes doing that, rather than blagging it and saying it looks good. It’s my reputation, after all,” he explains. While some may feel apprehensive to follow this advice, Knight adds that a client will respect you more for it.

Tools of the trade

Makeup artists spend years building their kitbags, often filled with “holy grail” or “cult favourite” products. So, does Knight have any underrated gems he’s ready to reveal? He admits he’s “really into Korean beauty” at the moment, having immersed himself in the work of Korean makeup artists – watching YouTube videos with subtitles and taking notes.

When asked what he finds so appealing about this ever-growing export, Knight explains that he’s been impressed not only by the ethos of K-beauty, but its price point, too. “I’ve been trying Korean cushion foundations for £12 a pop – and they are incredible,” he shares. After using one on a client before a red-carpet appearance, he recalls being genuinely impressed when the photos came back. “I was wowed,” he adds.

These days, trends seem to be very divisive; some people love them, while others criticise them for their cyclical nature. Discussing his view on the matter, Knight reveals that he’s “very trend-driven” but tries to look at things objectively. Sometimes, trends reveal a new technique, or a new way to use a product he hadn’t previously considered. “However, sometimes I’ll acknowledge that something is just viral for being viral,” he adds.

It’s not just online content that provides a source of education for Knight, though. “Working as a makeup artist is a constant learning opportunity. You’re working with people, not a canvas, so you’re able to pick things up from your clients," he explains.

Words of wisdom

Expanding more on his advice for budding session artists, Knight suggests treating every client as though they are your dream client. “If you’d spend an hour doing skincare for Julia Roberts, why wouldn’t you for the client in your chair?” he asks. While some might call this approach manifestation, Knight simply explains that he believes by doing the work he wants to do, more of it will come his way.

As for the lesson he wishes he already knew when he started his career? “It’s not that serious,” he admits. Having always criticised his own work when comparing it to others, especially in the early days, it took time to recognise that it’s OK to take things slowly. “If you enjoy the journey, when you get to where you want to get, it’s so much more enjoyable,” he shares.