Business tips

ASK THE EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

What should I consider when choosing an LED device for cosmetic treatments?

When selecting an LED device, one of the most important considerations is whether it holds the right credentials. FDA clearance and CE marking indicate that a device has been rigorously tested for safety and efficacy. It’s also worth choosing a multi-functional device. A single system should ideally meet a range of skincare and wellness needs and be suitable for use anywhere on the body, offering greater value and flexibility in a professional setting.

Based on NASA’s seminal research, the effective wavelengths are blue, red and near-infrared. These have been widely shown to increase adenosine triphosphate (ATP) production in cells compromised by ageing, illness, disease or lifestyle factors. Blue addresses acne, while red and near-infrared help decrease inflammation and increase micro-circulation, bringing oxygen and nutrients.

There is no credible research supporting therapeutic value for wavelengths outside blue, red and near-infrared. By contrast, these three wavelengths are backed by thousands of peer-reviewed clinical studies demonstrating significant benefits when used correctly. In beauty, red and near-infrared are especially desirable because of their ability to stimulate fibroblast activity and boost collagen and elastin production.

Treatment protocols also play a major role in effectiveness. The maximum time for photon absorption by the cell membrane and mitochondria is 30 minutes. Extending treatment time beyond that does not increase benefit, but there is no limit to the number of times a device can be used on the same patient. In areas such as wound healing, practitioners often observe accelerated results, with progress achieved in one month that might otherwise take three months without light therapy.

Distance from the skin is another important factor. According to the inverse square law, the closer the device is to the treatment area, the greater the photon absorption. Increasing distance reduces the amount of usable light energy. This is where flexible panel devices have an advantage over rigid systems, as they can contour closer to the skin and maintain consistent light delivery across a larger area.

Safety should always be front of mind. Professionals should research the clinical evidence supporting any brand they are considering and prioritise devices with FDA clearance and a CE mark. Clean, freshly washed skin is recommended for best results. Despite marketing claims, there are no rigorous clinical studies showing a synergistic effect between LED treatment and serum penetration. Practitioners should also be mindful of medications that may cause photosensitivity and carry out thorough consultations.

In light of recent ASA rulings, it’s also vital to communicate benefits accurately. Choosing an FDA-cleared device ensures that indications for use have been properly established. Building knowledge through clinical papers, and working with providers that offer training and ongoing support, helps therapists confidently and responsibly explain LED’s benefits to clients.

Looking ahead, emerging developments include hair restoration, where red light can prolong the anagen phase, and non-invasive lipo-therapy, which is pain-free, preserves fat cells and has no known complications.

PAM CUSHING

Pam Cushing is an aesthetic nurse with 20 years’ experience. Her passion for skin and managing skin disorders means she is sought after by brands as a consultant educator for skin brands and devices.

How can I use skincare to enhance makeup longevity in colder months?

As the winter months set in, many of my clients and fellow professionals notice that achieving smooth, lasting makeup becomes more challenging. The culprit isn’t the foundation or the technique – it’s the skin beneath. Cold air, indoor heating and lower humidity all conspire to deplete the skin’s moisture barrier, leaving it dry, tight and textured. Proper winter skincare prep is not just a luxury, it’s the foundation for beautiful, long-wearing makeup.

Understanding winter skin

During the colder months, our skin experiences a perfect storm of stressors. Outdoors, chilly winds and low humidity strip away natural lipids that keep the skin supple. Indoors, heating systems further dehydrate the skin, drawing out moisture and compromising its barrier function. The result is a dull, flaky complexion that resists even the most skillful makeup application.

When the skin’s surface is uneven or dehydrated, foundation tends to cling to dry patches, settle into fine lines or appear cakey. In my decades as an aesthetician and educator, I’ve seen that the difference between makeup that sits on the skin and makeup that melts beautifully into it is often determined by the care taken before the first drop of foundation is applied.

Professional prep techniques

Every skin type requires a thoughtful approach to winter prep.

For dry or mature skin: Begin with gentle exfoliation to remove surface dryness. Follow with hydrating serums and rich emollients to restore suppleness and elasticity.

For combination skin: Balance is key. Hydrate the drier areas of the face with lightweight serums while controlling oil in the T-zone. Finish with a moisturiser that seals in hydration without heaviness. Balanced skin holds makeup evenly, preventing shine or patchiness. For oily skin: It’s a common misconception that oily skin doesn’t need hydration, especially in winter. When oily skin becomes dehydrated, it overcompensates with excess sebum, leading to unwanted shine and makeup slippage. Opt for non-comedogenic hydration and a gentle exfoliant to keep pores clear and texture refined.

For professionals, I also recommend incorporating a peptide-rich mist or mask during skin prep. A hydrating, peptide-infused formula helps calm and refresh skin, creating a smoother canvas and enhancing product performance before makeup application .

Common mistakes and solutions

Even the most seasoned makeup artists can fall into winter pitfalls. Here are a few that I see most often:

• Skipping hydration: Applying makeup to dry skin is like painting on sandpaper. Always ensure the skin is well moisturised and given time to absorb before applying primer or foundation.

• Over-powdering: In winter, excessive powder accentuates dryness. Use translucent powder only where needed and rely on skin prep to achieve a natural matte finish instead.

• Layering too quickly: Allowing each skincare product to absorb fully prevents pilling and ensures that subsequent layers, especially foundation, adhere smoothly.

Thoughtful preparation transforms how makeup looks and feels. Here are three professional tips to implement right away:

1. Double hydrate: Use both a serum and moisturiser suited to the client’s skin type to lock in lasting comfort.

2. Prime with purpose: Choose a primer that complements skin texture – hydrating for dry skin, balancing for oily.

3. Refresh throughout the day: A light hydrating mist can revive makeup and restore luminosity without disturbing the finish.

LYDIA SARFATI

Lydia Sarfati is an aesthetician and educator with over 50 years’ experience in the beauty industry. She is the founder and chief executive of seaweed skincare brand Repêchage, and the president of Cidesco Section USA.

How can I market tanning services during the winter?

Winter is traditionally the quietest season for tanning services. As temperatures drop and clients reach for thicker layers, many feel less urgency to maintain a bronzed glow. Social calendars slow down, holidays are over, and less skin is on show, naturally reducing bookings between January and March.

However, while demand shifts, it doesn’t disappear. Salons that understand winter tanning behaviour can stabilise revenue and strengthen client loyalty year-round.

Even in colder months, clients still book tans for confidence, mood-boosting benefits and to counteract the washed-out look that winter skin can bring. Unlike summer clients seeking a “holiday-ready” finish, winter tanners tend to want subtlety: a healthy, rested, natural glow suitable for everyday life. Positioning tanning as part of a wellbeing routine, rather than purely cosmetic, helps salons stay relevant during slower periods.

This means winter marketing needs a different tone. Summer campaigns focus on bronzed skin and pre-holiday excitement; winter messaging resonates better when it centres on self-care, confidence and healthy-looking skin. Professional spray tans offer instant benefits at a time when many people feel dull or tired: they even out redness, create a uniform skin tone, and elevate overall appearance. Clients frequently report a mood lift after tanning, something particularly valuable during darker months.

Salons can maintain visibility and stimulate bookings through targeted winter campaigns such as:

• “Winter Glow” limited-time offers

• Introductory bundles to convert curious clients

• Short educational content (prep tips, colour guides, how to choose winter-appropriate shades).

Your expertise is a crucial differentiator. Winter is an ideal time for spray tan professionals to demonstrate technical knowledge, particularly around colour matching for paler skin tones, avoiding orange hues, adapting formulas for dry winter skin and advising on aftercare. Sharing educational content, whether through reels, step-by-step posts or before-and-afters, helps reinforce credibility and positions the therapist as a trusted specialist.

The rise in winter weddings also presents a valuable opportunity. Showcasing imagery of soft, natural bridal glows helps reassure clients that tanning can look flawless and believable even in colder seasons. These visuals are highly effective for attracting both bridal parties and clients seeking a polished but subtle finish.

To turn occasional tanners into consistent, year-round customers, salons can introduce loyalty incentives or glow-maintenance packages. Monthly memberships with small added perks, such as a complimentary prep product or priority booking, can significantly improve retention. Add-on retail items such as exfoliation mitts, hydrating mists and skin prep kits also enhance results while increasing average spend.

Ultimately, maintaining momentum during winter comes down to visibility and consistency. Keep sharing results, educating clients and reinforcing the message that a professional tan is a confidence-boosting ritual, not just a summer luxury. Salons that lean into wellbeing-focused messaging and demonstrate expertise throughout the quieter months will not only sustain winter revenue but also enter spring with a stronger, more engaged client base.

LAURA JOHN-BAPTISTE

Laura John-Baptiste is the founder of Get Beautiful, a home-based beauty salon in Shepperton, Surrey, and the owner of Get Bronzed, a specialist spray tanning company.