Managing PIGMENTATION

Hyperpigmentation is one of the most challenging skin concerns for clients and beauty therapists – here is the experts’ advice

Whether it’s due to sun exposure, hormones or post-inflammatory responses, managing hyperpigmentation requires a tailored approach.

1. Understanding the causes

To provide effective treatment, therapists need an understanding of what causes pigmentation. Lesley Corridan, education manager at Dermalogica UK, explains that hyperpigmentation occurs when excess melanin is produced in certain areas. “Triggers range from UV exposure, which increases melanin production, to inflammation, where the skin’s healing response can leave darkened marks,” she says. Hormonal fluctuations are another factor. “During pregnancy or with hormonal contraceptives, elevated levels of oestrogen and progesterone can increase melanocytestimulating hormone,” Corridan says. “This can lead to pigmentation, often appearing as the ‘mask of pregnancy’.”

2. A thorough consultation

The first step in addressing hyperpigmentation is understanding each client’s unique skin type, triggers and history. Gladys Sambo, education curriculum executive at Dermalogica UK, says that comprehensive consultations are crucial, especially for melanin-rich clients who are more susceptible to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). “We can’t always determine how a client’s skin will react based on appearance alone,” she explains. “By understanding their ethnic background and lifestyle, we get a clearer picture of what might trigger pigmentation.”

Rachel Stevens, a professional skin therapist and owner of Skin Health Studio, adds that understanding clients’ routines and any previous treatments is essential. “Knowing how their skin has responded in the past helps me tailor a treatment plan. I ask questions about any triggers, like stress or recent UV exposure, so I can build a more informed approach.”

3. Educating clients on realistic expectations

Setting realistic expectations is key when it comes to pigmentation treatments. Stevens says, “Clients understandably want quick results, but pigmentation is often a long-term journey. I explain that a 70% reduction in pigmentation is a realistic success marker. It’s about helping clients see progress, even if it’s gradual.”

Sambo suggests using photographic documentation. “It’s sometimes hard for clients to be objective about their skin when they’re frustrated,” she notes. “Photos taken at regular intervals show them the positive changes.”

4. Tailoring approaches for melanin-rich skin

Melanin-rich skin is particularly prone to PIH, so a cautious approach is required to avoid aggravating pigmentation. Sambo warns, “The temptation is to go all in with strong treatments, but aggressive approaches can exacerbate pigmentation.” Instead, she recommends gentle ingredients like lactic acid and vitamin Cto brighten without irritating.

She also highlights the importance of SPF. “With conditions like melasma common in Fitzpatrick 4 to 6 skin, SPF is nonnegotiable,” Sambo says. “Protecting skin from UV prevents new pigmentation and deepening of existing marks.”

5. Consistency in treatments and home care

Consistency is crucial in managing hyperpigmentation, says Corridan. “Skin isn’t a static organ; it’s constantly interacting with hormones, UV and pollutants. Even minor fluctuations can trigger pigmentation, so consistent care is key.”

Stevens adds, “Pigmentation can’t be fixed overnight. Setting realistic expectations with clients and educating them on the importance of regular treatments and home care, like SPF and antioxidant-rich serums, makes all the difference.”

6. Supporting clients through hormonal triggers

Hormonal pigmentation, such as melasma, can be particularly challenging. “Since we can’t control hormonal fluctuations, we focus on managing skin health during those surges,” says Sambo. This often involves a regimen of brightening and hydrating ingredients, along with gentle resurfacing, to maintain evenness and glow.

Corridan highlights that stress hormones can also play a part. “High stress levels cause the release of ACTH hormone, which can bind to melanocytes and activate pigment production,” she explains. Offering clients stress-relieving treatments and encouraging calming skincare routines can help manage pigmentation triggers.