THE ART OF bespoke brows

Bespoke brow services offer clients brows that suit their face, skin and lifestyle. Ellen Cummings finds out how the brow experts create super-personalised looks

A one-size-fits-all approach isn’t applicable in beauty, especially when it comes to brows. Bespoke brow treatments that take into account a client’s individual face and eye shape, brow hair type and skin tone are now the gold standard for achieving natural, flattering results, and brow artists have adapted to carefully balancing client preferences with their expert knowledge to create a look that suits each client.

The demand for bespoke brows has grown in recent years as clients become more knowledgeable about brow treatments and expect a high level of artistry and personalisation. “Clients’ expectations have evolved as the brow industry has grown,” explains Leisa Roberts, founder of the award-winning Brow HQ salon in Chester.

She adds, “It’s no longer acceptable to offer a basic brow treatment alone. All of our salon treatments include bespoke brow mapping, custom-blended colours and a variety of solutions, techniques and products.”

The consultation

For both Roberts and Nez Hasan, a global semipermanent makeup artist specialising in brows, the initial consultation is a crucial stage in the treatment process. This step allows them to understand a client’s goals, lifestyle, and skin and hair type, which all play a role in shaping the final look.

Hasan explains her approach, saying, “We have our consultations via email with photos and concerns shared. At the appointment time, I will first look at their brows while we are having a general chat and see the brow movement to get a rough idea of which treatment will suit them the best.

“Once I start pre-drawing the brows, I have a better answer, depending on the skin colour and brow hair type and colour.”

Similarly, Roberts emphasises the importance of understanding a client’s lifestyle and brow preferences early in the consultation: “We ask questions in terms of what it is our clients would like to achieve. We ask, ‘If we were to wave a magic brow wand, what would your brows look like and how long would you like them to last?’,” she explains.

By discussing factors like lifestyle and exposure to sunlight, Roberts assesses the durability needs of each client’s brows, helping to select a treatment that aligns with both their daily life and desired style.

Once the client’s preferences are established, you can assess their natural brow structure and face shape. Hasan and Roberts each bring their own methods to this process, but both share the goal of achieving a look that enhances, rather than overpowers, the client’s natural beauty.

Mapping the brows

“It’s more important to assess suitability first and the amount of hair the client has,” Roberts shares. Using brow mapping techniques like the three-point mapping and golden ratio mapping process, Roberts tailors the shape to each client’s natural bone structure. “Colour and shape are always bespoke according to the client’s natural features,” she explains, highlighting that factors like eye size and face shape also influence whether a client might be better suited to a fluffy, bold brow or a more subtle, arched shape.

Hasan shares a similar philosophy when creating a look that flatters each client’s face shape and eye size. “For style, I will look at the natural brow shape, how high or low it sits, and how we can give the client a younger eye look. If they have round eyes, I will give them straighter brows with a soft arch that lifts the eyes,” she explains. By carefully considering each client’s features, Hasan ensures that the final result harmonises with their natural look.

Choosing a treatment

One of the key decisions in customising a brow treatment is selecting between semipermanent makeup (SPMU) and non-semipermanent options. Both Hasan and Roberts agree that this choice depends on factors like the client’s existing brow fullness, symmetry and how long they want the treatment to last.

According to Roberts, clients with “a good natural brow that’s quite symmetrical and full” often benefit from nonsemipermanent options like lamination or hybrid tints because these treatments can enhance the natural shape without major changes. However, clients with sparse brows, minimal symmetry or very fair hair may prefer semipermanent techniques like microblading or powder brows, which add more lasting structure and colour.

Hasan adds, “If I think SPMU doesn’t suit them, I will advise them to try other treatments first.” She often recommends powder brows for clients with curly or coarse brow hairs because it offers a rich, dark finish that stays defined for longer than microblading. She notes that clients with flat or ashy brows typically see the best results with microblading, as it can bring out a softer, natural colour that suits their skin tone.

Navigating trends

Not every brow request is ideal for a client’s natural features, and both brow artists have developed approaches to tactfully guide clients toward a look that enhances rather than overwhelms their appearance. “If it’s something I cannot do because it wouldn’t suit their face or features, I will softly say I think it won’t suit them or it won’t work well,” says Hasan “If they’re convinced, I will explain that the treatment will give them a base and a stencil to use to go over, and it will suit their natural features much better.”

Roberts echoes this, stressing that honesty is key to building trust. “Our clients appreciate our honest and professional advice,” she says. By explaining how different treatments work and what effects they achieve, brow artists can help clients to choose a brow style that aligns with both their features and their lifestyle.

When it comes to trends, both experts prioritise timelessness over styles. “I don’t think I have ever followed the trend with SPMU. It has always been ‘please, as natural as possible’ with my clients,” Hasan shares.

Roberts is also cautious about trends, explaining that her team’s expertise and knowledge of techniques ensure they can deliver flattering results that feel fresh but that won’t end up looking outdated in a few years.

Aftercare is an essential aspect of brow treatments because it can significantly impact the results. Hasan and Roberts both offer tailored guidance based on the treatment type, ensuring clients know exactly how to care for their new brows.

Customising aftercare

Roberts has implemented a system to provide aftercare instructions. “We have specific aftercare cards for all treatments, which are given out and emailed to all clients after their treatments,” she says.

Hasan adapts her aftercare advice based on her years of experience. “Most treatments have different aftercare,” she explains. “Over the years, I added and changed the aftercare from taking into account the healing process with my clients.” These approaches to aftercare ensure clients receive tailored advice to help them maintain their brows.

When it comes to treatment results, Hasan has noticed that clients are more realistic in their expectations of semipermanent makeup than they once were. “People know what to expect when they are healed, and they understand that a good artist will do their job well, but the results will depend on the client’s own skin,” she observes.

As client awareness and demand for bespoke beauty treatments continue to grow, brow artists are leading the way in personalised treatments. From detailed consultations and customised aftercare to balancing trends with timeless looks, the brow industry has evolved to celebrate each client’s natural beauty.