ASK THE Experts

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

Can I use active skincare ingredients on clients with sensitive skin?

There’s an old-school belief in skincare that “strong” means harsh. Many people (including some beauty professionals) have long thought that unless your skincare products make your skin tingle, burn or turn red, they’re not working hard enough. But in reality, this couldn’t be further from the truth. That burning sensation and redness are not signs of your skin being “activated”. They’re actually symptoms of inflammation, which can be incredibly damaging, especially to sensitive skin.

When skin gets irritated, it triggers an inflammatory response, which is not only uncomfortable but can also speed up ageing and increase risk of pigmentation. For sensitive skin types, this is even more of a concern because prolonged inflammation can disrupt the skin barrier, making skin even more dry and inflamed.

But these days we know that clients don’t have to choose between having dry and sensitive skin and using effective skincare actives. With the right products and a bit of know-how, you can still help your clients enjoy the benefits of powerful ingredients without compromising their skin health.

Active ingredients for sensitive skin

There are plenty of ingredients that work wonders without causing irritation. It’s all about choosing the right ones.

• Retinal: Retinoids have a reputation for being harsh, but retinal (a gentler form of vitamin A) offers all the antiageing benefits. It boosts collagen, reduces fine lines and improves skin texture, without the same risk of irritation as traditional retinol.

• Niacinamide: Known for its soothing properties, niacinamide strengthens the skin barrier, reduces redness, combats pigmentation and improves the appearance of pores. It’s perfect for calming skin while delivering results.

• 4-N-Butylresorcinol: This ingredient works as a powerful inhibitor of the enzyme tyrosinase, essential for the formation of pigment. It has been shown to be the most potent inhibitor of tyrosinase – more powerful than hydroquinone. It is an effective brightening agent that helps reduce hyperpigmentation and melasma. It’s strong on dark spots but gentle on skin.

• Polyhydroxy acids (PHAs): PHAs have larger molecules than AHAs or BHAs. They provide mild exfoliation with proven benefits for ageing and pigmentation. They also hydrate skin and strengthen the skin barrier. They don’t increase sensitivity to UV, and they are tolerated by even sensitive skin types.

Skincare to avoid

Even if you’re using the right actives, your product’s formulation can still have a huge impct. Be cautious about certain excipients (the inactive ingredients that make up a formula) such as:

• Perfumes and fragrances: They smell great but can cause irritation or allergic reactions.

• Preservatives: While necessary for keeping products fresh, some can irritate and disrupt the skin barrier. The days of “if it burns, it’s working” are long gone. Modern skincare has evolved, and high-quality actives can improve your clients’ skin without leaving it red, irritated, or inflamed. Ingredients like retinal, niacinamide, 4-N-Butylresorcinol and PHAs can help achieve healthy, glowing skin without the irritation; just remember to keep an eye on those sneaky excipients.

Dr Ginni Mansberg is a GP, TV presenter, podcaster and author. She specialises in women’s health, menopause and skin and is also co-founder and medical director of Evidence Skincare (ESK).

What are the emotional benefits of facials for clients?

We all know the impact that facials can have on clients’ skin health. However, the benefits extend far beyond the aesthetics; facials offer significant emotional and psychological advantages.

As a beauty therapist, you are in a unique position to offer a much-needed reprieve from the stresses of clients’ daily lives. Your gentle touch and the rhythmic motions of facial techniques stimulate the parasympathetic nervous system, which is responsible for the body’s rest and digest functions. This can lead to a decrease in cortisol levels (the stress hormone) and an increase in the release of endorphins, the body’s natural mood elevators. By offering professional facials, you are not just treating the skin; you are providing a holistic experience that promotes mental and emotional wellbeing.

The emotional benefits of professional facials are also closely tied to self-esteem and confidence. When clients see visible improvements in their skin, it can have a profound effect on how they feel about themselves. Clear, radiant skin is often associated with health, vitality and youthfulness, which can significantly boost a client’s self-image.

Moreover, the personalised attention and care you provide during a facial treatment can make clients feel valued and special. This feeling of being cared for can enhance their sense of self-worth, making them more likely to return for future treatments and to recommend your services to others.

Building strong, trusting relationships with your clients is essential for long-term success in the beauty industry. Professional facials provide an excellent opportunity to deepen the emotional connection with your clients. The one-on-one time you spend with them during a facial allows you to engage in meaningful conversations, listen to their concerns and provide personalised advice. This level of attention fosters a sense of trust and loyalty, as clients feel that you genuinely care about their wellbeing.

Furthermore, the regularity of facial treatments creates consistent opportunities for interaction. Over time, this repeated contact helps to solidify the therapist-client relationship, making your clients feel more comfortable and connected to you. This emotional bond is invaluable, as it not only encourages repeat business but also turns clients into ambassadors for your services.

Facials are a powerful way to enhance your clients’ emotional wellbeing while also elevating your practice. By offering stress relief, boosting self-esteem and fostering emotional connections, you are providing more than just an aesthetic skincare treatment – you are offering a holistic experience that nurtures the mind, body and spirit. As a trained beauty therapist, you have the skills and expertise to make a significant impact on your clients’ lives.

Hannah White is head of education at skincare brand Monuskin and device manufacturer Carlton Professional. She was previously manager at Chapel Spa, gaining experience in treatments and staff training.