14 mins
News
Nearly half of UK adults report stress-related skin conditions
Almost half (42%) of the UK population believe stress has had a negative impact on their skin and hair.
Dry skin tops the list of stress-related beauty concerns, affecting three in 10 people, according to new stats from wholesaler Capital Hair & Beauty.
The most common hair and skin conditions Brits struggled with in the last year were:
1. Dry skin (29%)
2. Hair thinning and loss (22%)
3. Acne and breakouts (19%)
4. Inflammation (12%)
5. Eczema (11%)
The study, which surveyed 2,000 UK adults, showed that money issues were the top contributing factor, with 35% saying this was their biggest stressor last year, closely followed by the stresses of family life, which was a factor for 32% of people.
Others attributed their stress to their jobs, with over a quarter (26%) saying their work life increased their stress levels last year.
People within the generation X group, aged 45 to 54, were revealed to be the most stressed, with 30% saying their stress levels were high last year.
Over a quarter (27%) of this age group showed physical signs of stress, with hair thinning particularly common.
However, many women aged 45-54 are within menopausal age, which is also a cause of hair loss.
Geographically, the top cities suffering from hair or skin issues because of stress are:
1. Nottingham (53%)
2. Cardiff (52%)
3. Leeds (49%)
4. Newcastle (47%)
5. London (45%)
The biggest aesthetics trends set to shape the market this year
Trends in the aesthetics industry are evolving, with a focus on collagen-boosting treatments and holistic wellness taking centre stage, according to the latest findings in the Next by Galderma report.
Pharmaceutical company Galderma created the report in collaboration with trend forecaster WGSN to offer insights gathered from a global network of aesthetic practitioners and industry influencers. The report projects the aesthetics market will reach a value of $25.9bn (£20.2bn) by 2028, underlining the sector’s growing significance in holistic beauty and skincare routines.
Among the key findings are three core macromovements driving industry growth: increasing accessibility, advancements in science and technology, and social community normalising aesthetic treatments.
The report also identified six top trends:
1. Proactive beauty: a focus on prevention over correction.
2. Mindful aesthetics: emphasis on natural results and sustainability.
3. Fast aesthetics: a rapid rise and fall of trends influenced by social media.
4. Beauty fandom: inspired by niche idolisation and digital communities.
5. Expressionality: embracing individuality and diverse beauty standards.
6. Cancelling age: a shift towards preservation-focused terminology and holistic approaches to ageing.
News in brief
St Moritz Hotel’s Cowshed Spa in Cornwall has revealed plans for a £2m upgrade. Opening in June, the refurb will involve a rework of the Soho House property's pool area into a wellness space with outdoor hydro pool, steam room and sauna, ice fountains and sensory showers. The design has been managed by 3idog Interior Design.
Nez Hasan, celebrity cosmetic semi-permanent make-up (SPMU) artist, has launched The Nez Hasan Perfection and Confidence Online Academy, a platform to support SPMU artists in their careers in the industry.
The Spa at Carden is trialling womenonly spa sessions, providing the opportunity for inclusivity among spa guests who may not usually be able to enjoy a spa environment due to cultural or religious reasons, or for women who suffer from body-confidence issues.
The Set Collection has partnered with Therabody, the wellness tech company behind Theragun. From April, Hotel Café Royal in London, Lutetia in Paris and Conservatorium in Amsterdam, will be the first hotels to offer the full range of Therabody’s wellness products in the hotels’ rooms and Akasha spas.
After almost two years of war, it continues to be business as usual for many of CACI’s Ukrainian beauty clinics. However, therapists have reported that increased stress levels are affecting clients’ skin. “Many have problems due to a high-stress factor and chronic lack of sleep,” said clinic owner Hanna Bezyk. “We are noticing clients coming in with conditions, such as acne, rosacea, and sensitive skin.”
Most common beauty businesses in UK revealed
Nail salons clinch the top spot as the most popular beauty trade in the UK, according to a recent report by Money.co.uk Business, analysing data from 20 big cities.
London emerged as the prime location for beauty businesses due to its high household disposable income, averaging £31,094 per person.
Coventry leads outside London for waxing, skincare and hair salons, while Bristol tops the poll for nail and lash technicians. Wolverhampton is the hotspot for budding make-up artists.
The Office of National Statistics noted a steady rise in beauty businesses, hitting 49,295 in 2023.
For nail salons, London boasts the highest gross disposable household income and search demand, followed by Bristol, then Coventry.
Similarly, London dominates in lash technician and make-up artist businesses, with Bristol and Wolverhampton following.
In the waxing salon category, London took the lead, trailed by Coventry and Sheffield, each offering low competition and a demand for services. In London, for example, there are just four specialist waxing salons per 100,000 people, according to the report.
The Spring Budget 2024: what it means for the beauty industry
The beauty and hair industry's calls for a lower rate of VAT for our service-led market were not answered in the Spring Budget on March 6.
However, Chancellor Jeremy Hunt did announce a VAT registration threshold increase from £85,000 to £90,000 from April 1.
There will also be a cut to national insurance by 2p from April 6 and an extension on the Government loan scheme for small businesses until March 2026.
The Chancellor said the economy is expected to grow by 0.8% this year and 1.9% next year and continue on this trend until 2027.
He also announced a continuation of Government funding for those struggling with cost-of-living pressure for six months and an increase to the child benefit earning threshold.
Caroline Larissey, chief executive at the National Hair & Beauty Federation said: "We’re pleased...with the raising of the VAT threshold, taking into account inflation. However...we welcome further discussions with HM Treasury around future VAT reform to ensure a fairer system and to help level the playing field in the hair and beauty sector.”
Babtac and Cibtac chief executive Lesley Blair MBE said she welcomed the increase to the VAT threshold but added, “As one of the hardest hit industries during and post-pandemic (estimated to be an average financial loss of £11,603 on earnings), we believe far more needs to be done to encourage the emergence of new talent and growth in our sector.”
News in brief
Everlasting Brows has launched a salon and training academy in London. The salon features three treatment rooms and an education space for training. It offers an array of brow and lash treatments as well as dermaplaning, mesotherapy and facials.
Swiss skincare brand Cellcosmet has partnered with the Lucie app to bring six facials to clients in London and the Cotswolds. The partnership means clients can book at-home facial and body treatments from experienced therapists with no compromise on their usual luxury spa standards.
Daniel Thwaites Spa Group has enhanced its cancer care training with the Amethyst Trust, which is approved by the Standards Authority for Touch in Cancer Care (SATCC). Training covers a range of treatments suitable for guests with or recovering from cancer.
Laila Asid has joined Harpar Grace International (HGI) to support the international expansion of owned wellness technology brand Déesse Pro. Asid joins HGI as global head of sales, with over 20 years of expertise in global sales strategy and operations within the cosmetics industry.
Soho Farmhouse in Oxfordshire has partnered with London salon Skinwork to bring its skin coaches to the spa this spring. Treatments on offer include the City Cleanse, Clean + Contour, Skin Fix, and Pro. Glow facials.
World Spa & Wellness Awards 2024 winners revealed
The spa and wellness industry’s finest were recognised at the World Spa & Wellness Awards 2024, which took place at Grade II-listed venue The Brewery, London, on Sunday, March 3.
The winners
• Spa of the Year: Asia & Australasia
sponsored by 111Skin: RAKxa Integrative Wellness
• Spa of the Year: Europe
sponsored by Swissline: Six Senses Douro Valley
• Spa of the Year: Middle East & Africa
sponsored by Biologique Recherche: Cinq Mondes Spa at Raffles The Palm Dubai
• Spa of the Year: North & South America
sponsored by Elly Lukas College: Golden Door
• Spa Leader of the Year
sponsored by Gharieni Group: Asela Jayaweera, Sharq Village & Spa, a Ritz-Carlton Hotel
• Spa Team of the Year
sponsored by RKF Luxury Linen: The Spa at Mandarin Oriental Hyde Park, London
• Sustainable Spa of the Year
sponsored by Elemis: Lefay Spa Lago di Garda
• Worldwide Health & Wellness Destination of the Year
sponsored by Lemi Group:
Sha Wellness Clinic The winners of the Professional Beauty Awards were also announced at the event. Check them out from page 73.
Demand for beauty supplements hits UK high
The beauty and personal care supplements market soared in 2023, with 57 times more products available compared to 2021, according to Centric Market Intelligence.
Consumers are prioritising convenience for enhancing hair, skin, and nails, said the report, which examined the UK market’s performance from 2021 to 2023.
Beauty supplements remained relatively stable in price, while personal care supplements averaged £28.90. Sold-out rates peaked at 22%, and discounts fell by 44% across all categories in 2023.
Centric Market Intelligence expert Elizabeth Shobert commented, “Consumers are increasingly embracing the blurred line between beauty and health.
“We expect these trends to continue to pick up steam globally and we also expect to see increased innovation around product format, application and efficacy in the coming years.”
News in brief
CND had some glamorous outings recently, with Barbie director Greta Gerwig (pictured) wearing pale pink shade Winter Glow on the Bafta red carpet, while nail artist Julie Kandelec used the brand in Christian Cowan’s spring/summer 2024 collection at New York Fashion Week.
Temple Spa has been awarded Best Spa Product Brand in The Luxury Spa Edit Awards 2024, while best Medi-spa Product Brand went to 111 Skin. Nominees are picked by spa, beauty and wellness experts, and winners are determined by public vote. Spa winners included Corinthia London as Best Global Urban Spa Hotel and Kamalaya, Thailand, as best Global Holistic Haven.
The Gainsborough Bath Spa has partnered with skincare brand Omorovicza to launch five Mineral Cure Rituals to its Spa Village, including two gold spa treatments: Golden Massage, a body treatment that showcases the anti-inflammatory properties of gold, and Gold Hydrating Mineral Facial, harnessing the skin-strengthening power of colloidal gold.
Skincare brand Zelens has appointed Mark Whysall as general manager. Whysall brings over 25 years of experience in the industry, having worked with global groups such as L’Oreal and LVMH.
Model and entrepreneur Sofia Richie Grainge has been named global brand partner for Skinceuticals. Julien Chardon, the brand’s global general manager, said, “Sofia’s high standards for skincare innovation and her confidence in dermatologist expertise perfectly embody the values of Skinceuticals.”
CTPA manifesto calls for new Government strategy for beauty industry
The Cosmetic, Toiletry, and Perfumery Association (CTPA) has released its first-ever manifesto ahead of the next general election.
It calls for the next Government to develop a strategy for the cosmetics and personal care industry to secure the continued sustainable growth of the sector, laying out 12 key asks, underpinned by the pillars of essentiality, regulation, science, sustainability and business.
Some of the 12 requests include a strategy that establishes a commitment to integrate the use of animal-free methods into the safety assessment of chemicals, a formal structure for dialogue and cooperation be set up between the UK and EU for decisions regarding the cosmetics industry, and direct participation from the industry in the Extended Producer Responsibility (EPR) consultation process.
The CTPA hopes the manifesto could lead to the first Government-supported strategy dedicated to the cosmetics, personal care and beauty industry.
The next general election is due to be held before the end of January 2025.
Beauty leaders launch collaborative business book Leading From the Heart
Joan Scott, chair of Habia, and 20 other international business professionals have compiled a book of stories that detail how to create a profitable enterprise by putting people and relationships at the heart of your business.
The leaders featured in Leading From The Heart primarily come from the service sectors, including law, health and beauty, spas, hairdressing, cosmetics, financial services and hospitality, where interpersonal relationships are vital for success. Those featured from the beauty industry include Samantha Sweet, co-founder of Sweet Squared, salon owners Clare Porter, Paila Clipsham and Andrea Simpson, former spa group manager Kay Pennington, and Dermalogica education manager Candice Gardner.
Skin Philosophy Training to hold Science of Skin masterclass in April in London
Skin Philosophy Training has announced its Science of Skin Masterclass event on April 28 in London, offering a deep dive into the latest advancements in skin science.
The Masterclass is tailored for professionals aiming to enhance their proficiency in skin treatments and will delve into skin anatomy, explore effective techniques for skin analysis and consultation, address diverse skin conditions like pigmentation and rosacea, and demonstrate how to integrate advanced modalities into treatments to achieve optimal results for clients.
The event aims to serve as a networking hub as well as an educational platform. Contact info@skinphilosophy.training to book.
Diarydates
// April 21–22
Professional Beauty & Hair Ireland RDS, Dublin The Ireland edition of the show features leading suppliers, stages and awards. 0844 586 8195 professionalbeauty.ie
// May 10–20
Aesthetic Medicine Live Olympia London The medical aesthetic show returns with new product launches and both clinical and business education programmes. 020 7351 0536 aestheticmed.co.uk/london
// June 8
Global Wellness Day Worldwide The annual event is a not-for-profit day where spas raise awareness about living well. +90 216 571 49 00 globalwellnessday.org
// June 9–10
Professional Beauty & Hair Glasgow Scottish Event Campus, Glasgow The first Scottish edition for the show promises three live stages and the biggest brands. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/professional-beauty-hair-glasgow
// June 23–24
Spa Life UK Convention Cotswolds Water Park Hotel, Gloucestershire Meetings and education to help spa professionals grow their businesses. 01268 745892 spa-life-international
// July 12–13
Face Conference Business Design Centre, London A UK aesthetic medical conference. +33 (0)1 58 56 74 00 faceconference.com
GDC Beauty Group appoints general drector
GDC Beauty Group, owner of skincare brand Germaine de Capuccini, has appointed Ana Pons Talens as general director.
Previously corporate director for the group, Pons Talens has over 15 years’ experience in the financial sector.
Commenting on her new role, she said, “We have several ambitious projects and new launches ahead, which is so exciting.
“During this year, as we celebrate the 60th anniversary of one of our brands, Germaine de Capuccini, we as a group reflect on our journey and plot future ambitions.
“Always aiming to generate a substantial and positive impact on society, we will persist in working together, valuing our people and improving each day in order to continue to earn the trust of our customers.”
3D Aesthetics conducts clinical research for its 3D Emlift device
3D Aesthetics has conducted a controlled clinical study with full results to be released in spring. The study of its 3D Emlift device, which uses high intensity focused electromagnetic energy combined with radiofrequency, suggests it delivers great results for skin elasticity and skin firmness compared to a previous clinical study against botulinum toxin.
Dr Abs Settipalli, who collaborated with 3D Aesthetics on the clinical trial, said, “Scientific peer-reviewed evidence already exists to show the pro-ageing effects of botulinum toxin, such as elasticity loss. It therefore stands to reason that an approach which doesn’t reduce skin function and elasticity would give a better outcome than toxin in this anti/pro-ageing regard.
He added, “I personally believe not enough people are aware of the damaging effects of toxin in the long term.”
Some of the results noted so far include, 88% of participants feeling their appearance is younger, 100% feeling their skin is firmer and tighter, 94% noticing a visible lift, 82% seeing an increase in muscle tone and 94% noticing a reduction in wrinkles.
The Gharieni Group launches new brand Metawell
Gharieni Group has launched Metawell, a new brand to represent its technologybased wellness products.
Metawell is the final phase in the spa, medical and wellness equipment manufacturer’s restructuring process. The group now operates three brands: Gharieni, Bentlon and Metawell.
Metawell will encompass the group’s existing collection of mind and body wellness products such as experience beds, loungers and equipment that integrate sound, vibration, light and water.
In addition to repositioning the Gharieni brand and launching Metawell, the Group has integrated Dutch brand Bentlon into its portfolio. Acquired recently, Bentlon specialises in serving contemporary small spa and salon operators.