Ask the experts

What is glutathione and which skin concerns can it help with?

Glutathione is not just any old antioxidant – this is the “master” antioxidant. A tripeptide made from glycine, glutamic acid and cystine, glutathione is naturally produced in our bodies, peaking around the age of 20. It is extremely beneficial, both on the inside and the outside. It’s long been used in the supplement and IV industry, and with the glutathione market predicted to increase to £260 million by 2027 (according to Global Market Insights) now could be the time to bring this ingredient into your salon. The main purpose of glutathione is to protect the cells of our bodies from toxins, and it’s critical for cell health.

It works by clearing the body of free radicals and toxins. The skin is constantly exposed to oxidative stress, external pollutants and free radicals. This can lead to skin issues including hyperpigmentation, melasma, inflammation, fine lines, wrinkles and skin laxity. Glutathione can help with:

Overall brightening: Not to be confused with skin “lightening”, glutathione is renowned for brightening the skin, creating a glow. It encourages the regeneration of cells, which promotes a healthy-looking complexion and even skin tone. Its antiinflammatory properties also improve minor imperfections such as red spots, rough patches and acne.

Hyperpigmentation: Glutathione has anti-melanogenic properties because it inhibits the tyrosinase enzyme, making it an alternative to hydroquinone for reducing sun damage, hyperpigmentation and melasma.

Anti-ageing: A 2017 study published in Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology showed that glutathione helps to increase skin firmness and elasticity while smoothing fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps reverse the signs of premature ageing caused by free radical damage.

Currently, the use of glutathione within the beauty industry is limited – but it’s set to explode. Existing treatments are typically through supplements or IV infusions. So, if this is something you already offer your clients, you may be able to introduce glutathione seamlessly.

Glutathione skincare is also a fantastic option for clients looking to improve skin tone, texture and pigmentation. It works well on most skin types and, when combined in a stable formula, pairs well with other antioxidants, exfoliants and hydrators.

The Perfect Peel Superblend is a medium-depth, chemical peel blended with glutathione that is now available to the beauty industry. It brings the skin brightening and anti-ageing properties of glutathione, alongside melanogenesis inhibitors, antioxidants, hydrating agents, calming ingredients and antiinflammatories, combined at low percentages to maximise results while minimising risk and downtime.

Kelly Saynor is an aesthetic nurse prescriber, clinic director at Renew Medical Aesthetics in Cheshire, and clinical director of Medica Forte, UK distributor of The Perfect Peel.

How can I help my clients to make their tan last longer?

The key to a long-lasting tan is well prepared and hydrated skin. I always advise clients to start prepping the skin 24 hours before the tanning session – this will include removing any unwanted hair, exfoliating the body and moisturising all dry areas.

I also always ask them to bring loose-fitting, dark clothing to the appointment, which they can wear after the tan. It’s important clients don’t wear tight-fitting clothing that could rub off the tan before it’s had a chance to develop. You should also advise them to avoid deodorant and perfume before their appointment.

Before starting the tanning treatment, make sure your space is clean and clear of any obstructions. This should include a space for the client’s clothes and shoes. Have fresh towels, sticky feet, a head towel, baby wipes, moisturiser, plenty of tanning and buffing mitts, tanning solutions and disposable underwear to hand, and ensure your gun is clean before the client arrives.

When the client arrives and after filling in record forms, make sure deodorant, fragrance and make-up are removed from skin. Apply moisturiser to all dry areas, paying particular attention to hands, feet and elbows, because these are areas where tan can cling to the skin.

A professional tan should last around seven days with at-home skin maintenance. There are several things therapists can advise clients to do to maintain their tan. The first is to keep the skin well moisturised. Hydrated skin will help to lock in the tan, so advise your clients to use a shea butter-based moisturiser in the morning and evening to keep skin healthy and glowing.

To help a tan fade evenly, advise clients to gently exfoliate with an oil-free solution around day three. This will help to lightly buff away any dead skin cells and keep the tan even. Another option is to top up the colour using a gradual tan solution to increase skin moisture and add a dose of self-tan.

To benefit from a long-lasting professional tan, therapists should advise clients on the importance of maintenance and work this into their retail technique. Ensuring that your client leaves with a moisturiser will not only help the tan stay put for a longer period of time, it will also keep their skin hydrated and looked after between tan sessions.

It is also important to educate clients to lightly exfoliate their tan around day three or four, using an exfoliator to lift away any dead skin cells and avoid the tan going patchy. By incorporating an exfoliator with a moisturiser and retailing it as an aftercare kit, you know that your client’s tan and skin will be in good hands.

If clients would like to keep their tan topped up at home in between professional appointments, why not suggest a gradual tanning lotion to keep the tan glowing. Another retail option is face products, such as St Tropez Luxe Tan Tonic Drops or Purity Face Mist, because the tan on the face fades faster due to skincare routines.

Clients can also use a tanning mist to top up tan on the hands, chest, feet and hard-to-reach areas like the back. Retailing tanning products is all about building up clients’ at-home tan toolkit to help maintain their natural glow in between professional tans.

Michaella Bolder is a master facialist, skincare expert and ambassador for St Tropez, who specialises in both spray gun and hand application techniques to deliver a realistic and natural effect.

What do I need to consider when introducing new spa treatments?

One of the biggest challenges in running a profitable spa or salon business is the difficulty of recruiting therapists. This challenge is echoed internationally, leaving many spas in the situation of having to manage a busy treatment schedule with skeleton staff.

As a result, we’re now seeing a huge increase in spas looking for new and exciting therapies that require minimal staff time and training. However, in an industry that is always changing, it can be a challenge to find solutions to this problem while retaining the high-quality experience our clients deserve. Here are four things to consider when introducing treatment solutions that require minimal staff time:

1. Know your market: To find the best treatments that can be done with minimal staff supervision, it is important to fully research and evaluate a variety of options and look at what others are doing around you. Is there a service that is popular in your area or a trend you could jump on? Perhaps you can gather feedback from your current guests about their needs and desires when it comes to their spa time. Consider treatments such as self-service facials or body treatments like rasoul mud chambers that guests can perform on themselves with minimal guidance.

2. Consider “add-ons” or upgrades to your existing facilities: Do you have ample relaxation space? Perhaps you can consider introducing a menu of add-ons for your guests to upgrade to and enjoy in this area. This can include products such as LED face masks, headphones for guided meditation, foot treatment masks or removable eye treatment patches. Don’t forget to lean on your product houses for their advice and expertise when it comes to introducing more products to your business – they are there to help you.

3. Invest in technology and automated treatments: Do you have an empty treatment room that needs using? See this space as a means to incorporate something different into your spa, such as a small water experience. Floatation can give your guests an interesting wellbeing experience and results-driven treatment, while adding to the profit and saleability of your packages. A treatment like this can increase word-ofmouth recommendations and stimulate social media sharing.

4. Don’t see this as temporary: See this challenge as an opportunity to deliver wellness to your guests in a different way. Think facility investment, rather than purely treatment menu. In these challenging times, you must invest in your space and facilities to see a profitable return.