SOFT & sultry |

3 mins

SOFT & sultry

From subtle soft-glam to smoky “siren eyes”, leading MUAs Joy Adenuga, Nikita Baffour and Nadia Fihema tell Lollie Hancock which trends to brush up on ahead of SS23

Credit: Make-up: Joy Adenuga

Eye-grabbing graphics

We hope you’re not bored of bold and beautiful graphic eye looks just yet, as, according to celebrity make-up artist and skincare expert Joy Adenuga, the trend is living to see another season. Don’t worry, though – the look is moving away from sultry blacks and browns in favour of a brighter update.

“For SS23, the graphic eye will be back but with colours,” explains Adenuga, whose client list includes the likes of Leigh-Ann Pinnock and Bridgerton’s Golda Rosheuvel.

To give the look a modern twist, Adenuga suggests adding “hints of colour paired with the regular black liner, or the liner drawn out in spring-inspired colours or bedazzled with gems”.

Her top tip to create the look on your clients is to “keep it simple by starting your liner work with a dark brown eyeshadow and an angled liner brush”.

“This is because an eyeshadow is easy to neaten compared to using a liquid or cream eyeliner – if you make any mistakes, use a slightly damp cotton wool bud to correct,” she adds. Once you’ve laid the foundations with eyeshadow, you can go in with your cream, gel or liquid liner for a more intense look.

Credit: Hair: Craig Chapman, Photographer: Christopher Jeney

Powder power

Matte is back with a modern take for SS23, according to MUA and content creator Nikita Baffour. Explaining the processes behind her prediction, Baffour says, “With the rise of skincare content, many people began opting for the minimal make-up looks that enhance their beauty rather than mask it, leading consumers to skin tints and lightweight foundations.

She adds, “While these trends are here to stay, a trend I believe will skyrocket this year is soft matte skin.”

Get your powder puffs at the ready, as Baffour believes there will be “a rise in the use of powders in creating a more modern version of the ’90s skin movement, with many starting to create the effortless skin look we know and love with less shine”.

Unlike the ’90s look you’re probably picturing, Baffour notes that this version of matte skin takes a softer approach, reflecting the love for “barely there” and “clean girl” make-up that has grown over recent years for a soft glam look.

“This does not mean full coverage,” she explains, as “a ‘less is more’ look is still in, people now just want their make-up to last all day with minimal top-ups and hassle.”

To recreate this look on your clients, Baffour stresses the importance of prep, sharing, “A good tip for creating soft, matte skin will always be the use of primers. Controlling oil production allows more flexibility in the range of foundations that can be used. You can still opt for your favourite skincare routine, just mattify the oilier areas.”

Credit: make-up: @amir.mkp, hair: @zoeadamshair, model: @roimata

Sexy siren

Huda Beauty’s education manager for the UK and Ireland, Nadia Fihema, says the “Siren Eye” look, popularised by TikTok, is going to continue into SS23.

Explaining why the look remains so popular, Fihema shares, “It’s sexy and sultry, plus an eyeliner is an easy addition to transition your look from daytime no-make-up make-up to play time in just a few minutes.”

To create the look on clients, Fihema says there are three essential products: setting powder, a pencil eyeliner and a liquid liner. If you’re wondering why you need powder for an eyeliner look, Fihema explains, “Set your eyelid using the setting powder – this ensures no oil is on the lid and your liner won’t smudge up.

“It helps the pencil or liquid liner glide, and it reduces any discolouration on the eyelid,” she adds.

As for the pencil liner, Fihema suggests using a brown shade to tightline the upper lash line for a more natural look, explaining that it “helps create definition and allows you to work to your natural eye shape”.

She adds, “I pull it out at the outer corner, upwards and outwards, focusing on a light lift rather than towards my brow. Then, I lightly smudge it out with a small, angled brush, creating a guide for my liquid liner.”

Finally, add liquid liner, starting at the centre of the lash line to suit your client’s eye shape. “The key is to focus on elongating the eyes and playing up on the outer corners – don’t work towards the brow as this doesn’t allow room to really flick it out,” advises Fihema. “Instead, work towards the temple as this will give you a better shape and more play area.”

This article appears in March 2023

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March 2023
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