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NEWS

Data shows beauty industry has grown 1.1% during the coronavirus pandemic

Despite being heavily impacted by the coronavirus pandemic, the number of businesses operating in the professional beauty sector grew 1.1% between January 2020 and December 2021.

The beauty industry’s resilience was underpinned by the growing numbers of micro-businesses launching in specific categories during the Covid-19 pandemic, according to new figures from analyst Local Data Company (LDC), commissioned by the British Beauty Council.

The number of nail salons increased by 9.1% in this period, beauty salon numbers by 7.7% and barbershops were up 8.9%.

The sector also outperformed similar markets such as leisure, which saw a 3.3% decline in the same period. British Beauty Council said the research demonstrated the sector’s “strength, flexibility and resilience despite the significant challenges businesses have faced.”

The council added that an increasing need for consumers to find health and wellbeing services to address psychological and emotional issues, stemming from stress and burnout, had helped the sector buck the overall trend.

Millie Kendall OBE, chief executive of the British Beauty Council, commented on the data: “It has been an extremely challenging time for our sector – salons were closed for more than 200 days of lockdown. Many have sadly not been able to reopen, and we still have some tough months ahead of us.

“However, data to date reveals that we have been nothing but resilient. We have a ‘long tail’ of our industry that is made up of thousands of small independents.

Most have survived and thrived because they speak to so many things that the modern consumer is looking for, such as ways to support businesses rooted in local communities, and easy, relatively low-cost self-care.

“But beauty business owners are particularly flexible and forwardlooking. Individually, these microbusinesses may be small, but collectively, they are mighty.”

17% of UK women have knowingly purchased counterfeit beauty products

Just under a fifth (17%) of women have knowingly purchased a counterfeit product online, with beauty, fashion and accessories the most popular items, found new research from the Government’s Intellectual Property Office.

Social media has had an impact on this figure too. Of those who admitted to purchasing counterfeit products, just over a fifth (13%) of female participants aged 16–60 said they were influenced by social media endorsements.

A further 3% admitted to proactively searching for counterfeit items using social media posts and channels to assist in their searches, the report found. Meanwhile, of those 17% who knowingly purchased a counterfeit product online, 70% were 16-to-33-year-olds, and those in that age bracket are responsible for generating 77% of the demand for counterfeit products.

Beauty cosmetics is the third most investigated counterfeit product segment in the UK, with £2.2 million worth of fake products seized by police in 2019 and 2020. Of those who knowlingly purchase counterfeit products, 20% are habitual buyers – generating half (53%) of the demand currently.

News in brief

Sammy Gharieni, chief executive of the Gharieni Group, will receive the “A Life of Beauty” award at Beauty Düsseldorf on March 4. The award honours those considered driving forces in the industry and comes as the Gharieni Group celebrates its 30th anniversary this year.

Carlisle clinic VL Aesthetics has launched a campaign to help domestic abuse survivors through donated beauty products. Regifting Beauty supports Cumbrian charities The Freedom Project and Refuge. Dr Munir Somji’s Dr Medispa clinics and Dr Natalie Geary’s Light Touch Clinic have also joined the campaign.

Babtac’s annual Beauty Conference is returning following a two-year hiatus.

The event, taking place at the Fairmont Windsor Park Hotel on May 8, will provide networking opportunities as well as talks from industry leaders. Visit babtac.com for more information.

Management software Timely has added a Covid-19 vaccination policy setting to its booking platforms. Timely customers can choose to enable the policy, which requires clients to confirm they meet vaccine requirements, as part of the booking process.

Newly opened, The Clinic at Holland Park is a universal destination for aesthetics, beauty, and wellness.

Founded by consultant oculoplastic surgeon Richard Scawn and AllBright co-founder Debbie Wosskow OBE, the clinic is home to experts delivering treatments that focus on wellbeing.

The new Covid-19 financial support: what it means for beauty and spa businesses

The leading beauty associations have called on local authorities to open up access to the new additional financial support packages to more beauty businesses after many have struggled to access funds

In December, Chancellor Rishi Sunak announced the new financial support for UK businesses that faced disruption because of the Omicron variant.

In England, this came in the form of Additional Restrictions Grants, with claims made via local authorities.

Welsh economy minister Vaughan Gething later announced that £120m of funds would be available to retail, hospitality, leisure, and tourism business in Wales affected by the change in restrictions to alert level two.

Scotland’s First Minister Nicola Sturgeon then outlined how £107 million is being allocated to support businesses impacted by the spread of the Omicron variant, £19m of which was to support the beauty sector.

However, many salons have since reported that their local authorities have turned them down when they applied for the grants.

In January, associations including the NHBF, British Beauty Council, Babtac, UK Spa Association and FHT wrote to every local authority in England urging them to allocate their Additional Restrictions Grant (ARG) funding to the personal care sector.

In evidence, the groups asserted that, “despite being one of the larger contributors to the high street, we were not afforded similar additional targeted support by central Government”. They also highlighted, “as a close contact service sector, these businesses do not have the ability to diversify to offer services via other platforms”.

Bio-hacking and postbiotics among top seven wellness trends for 2022

Holland and Barrett’s Wellness Report has revealed bio-hacking and postbiotics are set to trend in 2022, with fermented supplements and collagen also on the rise.

The report predicted seven wellness trends: amino acids, which work with your body’s natural rhythm; postbiotics, which boost the immune system and reduce digestive symptoms; and adaptogens, which are plant-based substances to help the body during stressful times.

Also set to trend are collagen products; fermented supplements, which will leave the fridge and become more accessible in supplement form; and nutrient bio-hacking, as consumers aim to better understand their gut microbiome.

Complete nutrition is also set to grow in popularity, with consumers searching for nutrition with minimal effort as they return to life on-the-go post-pandemic.

News in brief

Professional Beauty’s Jack Diamond, Peter Bishop and Matt Price will be taking part in the Three Peaks Challenge to raise money for the Hair & Beauty Charity. Joined by friend Ben Teicht, the team will climb Ben Nevis, Scaffell Pike and Snowdon within 24 hours on March 4. Find out more and sponsor them at professionalbeauty.co.uk/3peaks.

Made for Life Organics has partnered with The Academy of Clinical Training in Scotland to extend its Cancer Touch Therapy training. Trainers Emma Williams and Nicci Anstey will work alongside the team to in launch the SATCC-approved courses in February at The Academy of Clinical Training, Glasgow.

TempleSpa raised £177,000 for mental health charity Mind in 2021. The brand donated £6 from each sale of its Repose Relaxing Night Cream during October, bringing the total donation since 2017 to more than £470,000.

Tech start-up Captivatium has launched “smart nails”. The Smart Nails Set allows users to access thousands of nail art looks through an app, where they can select a style which will be transmitted onto the Smart Nails and applied using medically approved adhesive tape.

Revive Collagen has appointed Sarah Power as general manager with a global remit. Formerly general manager at L’Oréal, Power has more than 20 years’ experience and has worked across both professional and consumer channels. Power will be overseeing strategic growth for Revive.

74% of dark-skinned consumers struggle to find beauty products for their skin type

While inclusivity is top of the agenda in the beauty industry there’s still a long way to go, with 74% of people with dark skin finding it hard to find the right products for their skin.

New research by skin health brand Lycored surveyed 1,285 consumers in the UK and US with skin tones ranging from white to dark brown or black on the Fitzpatrick scale.

More than half (64%) of people with dark brown or black skin said they do not believe the beauty industry does enough to meet the needs of people of all skin tones, while only 24% of people with white skin felt the same way.

Interestingly, given that 74% of those surveyed with dark skin said they find it hard to find products for their skin tone, dark-skinned consumers are more likely to look for skincare tailored to their skin tone.

White or fair-skinned consumers are also much less likely to purchase a product designed for their skin tone, with 33% of fair-skinned people buying skincare marketed to them, compared to 56% of those with light brown skin and 54% with brown skin, the report found.

Consumers with dark skin cited “healthy glow” and “radiance” as their main skincare goals.

Millie Kendall and Helena Grzesk named in the Queen’s New Year Honours List 2022

The British Beauty Council’s chief executive Millie Kendall (pictured left) and chief operating officer Helena Grzesk (right) have been recognised in the Queen’s New Year Honours List for 2022.

The awards recognise the impact of their collective endeavours to help support the beauty industry during the coronavirus pandemic and beyond – both at The British Beauty Council and in Grzesk’s previous role of general manager of the UK Spa Association Kendall has been awarded an OBE and Grzesk was given an MBE on January 1.

Grzesk said: “This award is a demonstration of the positive steps forward we have taken in being recognised as a global leader in innovation and education. We are so truly proud of the work we have achieved to date – this is the culmination of that work.”

Kendall added: “It’s an honour to be recognised in this way… This award signifies a change in how our sector is viewed, and an appreciation of not just my work but the monumental efforts of The British Beauty Council and its partners in affecting that change.”

News in brief

Comic and author Shaparak Khorsandi chose CACI Synergy as her first ever professional facial, after admitting she was new to all beauty treatments. Khorsandi had the treatment at CACI’s London flagship, Lisa Franklin Clinic Privé, in Knightsbridge.

Prestige beauty sales saw a 46% increase in the week before Christmas. UK consumers spent £161.6 million, an increase of £26.5m from 2020. Sales in bricks-and-mortar stores increased by 64% compared to 2020 due to the lack of lockdown restrictions compared to the previous year.

Mavala supported two women’s wellbeing charities over Christmas: Brighton Women’s Centre and West Hampstead Women’s Centre. The skin and nail care brand donated a range of its lipsticks with the aim of boosting self-confidence through a festive treat.

Spa booking agency SpaSeekers has signed a deal with O2, giving spas access to O2 Priority users to offer spa experiences and perks. The partnership enables spas partners to boost revenue from spa experience and voucher sales.

CND education ambassador Victoria Trafford has been awarded a CND EMEA Education Star Award for 2021. Trafford created 250 educational videos for the Academy2 training platform while facilitating digital classes in 2021.

Beauty salons among businesses with highest cancellations due to Omicron

Beauty salons and hairdressers saw cancellations soar during December and early January, as clients stayed at home amid the spread of Omicron.

The Office of National Statistics (ONS) revealed that 16% of all businesses reported an increase in cancellations from customers in December, but that this figure increased to 50% for service companies, which includes beauty salons and hairdressers.

The rise in cancellations came after Prime Minister Boris Johnson announced Plan B restrictions, effective from December 8, advising people to work from home where possible.

A poll of the industry by the National Hair & Beauty Federation revealed that 40% of hair and beauty businesses were forced to close their doors temporarily between Christmas and New Year (28-31 December), as 84% experienced reduced business in this period due to high cancellation rates.

The poll also saw 54% of businesses report staff absences during the same period due to the self-isolation rules around Covid-19.

Eight hair and beauty professionals scoop prizes at the Collective Pride Awards 2021

Hair and beauty industry professionals have been recognised in the Collective Pride Awards 2021.

The event, launched by mental wellbeing and suicide prevention charity The Lions Barbers Collective, recognises beauty therapists, hairdressers, and barbers who go above and beyond for their local communities.

Professional Beauty Group is the official media partner for the awards.

The winners are: Beyond Business Award: Craig’s Barbershop; More Than Award: Stewart Roberts at Haircuts 4 Homeless; Against The Odds Award:

Tyler Gray from the Hair@theAcademy team; My Saviour Award: Georgia Bell at Society in Rotherham; and Sam Wall Unsung Hero Award: Paul Lofthouse.

There are also three Special Recognition Awards: Lifetime Achievement Award: Leanne Hughes, hair lecturer at Abingdon & Witney College; Exceptional Educator Award: Mary Pugsley at Hair@ theAcademy; and Exceptional College: Milton Keynes College. The winners’ ceremony will take place on April 4 at the Barber Surgeon Hall in London.

Aromatherapy Associates, Made For Life Organics and Davines form new B Corp Beauty Coalition

Professional brands Aromatherapy Associates, Davines Group and Made For Life Organics are among 26 beauty companies with B Corp Certification that have joined together to form new coalition B Beauty.

The coalition is working to reduce the industry’s environmental footprint and raise public awareness of connecting beauty with responsibility.

Its mission is to deliver “beauty for good”, enabling collaboration and exchange between companies; identifying and sharing better practices; implementing improvement actions and publishing their outcomes; helping consumers more easily navigate the category; and influencing the beauty industry to trigger broader changes which can improve its social and its environmental footprint.

“We have decided to form a coalition to leverage our combined strengths and deliver tangible benefits to beauty customers, communities, and the planet we share,” said Davide Bollati, founding member of the B Corp Beauty Coalition and president of Davines.

Espa’s five-day Essentials training course now Cibtac-endorsed

Spa brand Espa’s five-day Essentials training course, which educates beauty therapists in the brand’s treatment protocols, is now endorsed by Cibtac.

The quality-certified programme aims to provide knowledge from some of the best training managers in the industry, ensuring therapists are efficiently and effectively active for therapies.

Daniel Golby, managing director at Espa, said: “We’re delighted that our Essentials training course is now officially certified by Cibtac. Education is at the heart of our business and now has never been a more crucial time to invest in higher-level teaching.”

Salon Services launches new in-store nail shopping experience for professionals

Salon Services has unveiled a new in-store nail shopping experience for customers, making it easier to shop brand favourites such as OPI and Gelish, as well as new affordable brands like Gellux and 2AM.

Nail techs can now test all nail colours in store, and thanks to a revised stock layout, can easily differentiate professional-only products from those that are for everyday consumer use.

“We’re excited for our customers to experience our revitalised extensive nail offering, which allows for a simpler and easier browsing and shopping experience,” said Racheal Walsh, category controller at Sally Beauty.

Diary dates

// February 7 and 10 DIBI Milano Filler Code Lives Online The brand’s national educators will host the education on Zoom on February 7 and Instagram on February 10. instagram.com/xpert_professional

// March 4–6 Beauty Düsseldorf Messe Düsseldorf Fair for cosmetics, nails, and spa. +49 211 4560 7602 beauty-dusseldorf.com

// March 6–7 Professional Beauty GCC Festival Arena, Dubai The biggest industry event in Dubai includes live stages and workshops. +971 (0) 4375 7300 professionalbauty.ae

// March 10–14 Cosmoprof Worldwide Bologna Fairground District, Bologna, Italy Expansive beauty exhibition with separate dates for packaging, perfume, and beauty. +39 02 796420 cosmoprof.com

// April 3 World Spa & Wellness Awards London Prestigious awards ceremony celebrating the best spa operations across the globe. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/wswawards

// April 3–5 Professional Beauty London ExCeL London The show is back as a two-day physical event with product launches and education, followed by a one-day online event. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/london

This article appears in February 2022

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This article appears in...
February 2022
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