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SPRING forward

Makeup trends for spring/ summer 2025 include satin skin, raspberry tones and Y2K vibes. Erin Leybourne asks the experts how to channel these into wearable looks for your clients

Fruit twist

Summer 2023 saw strawberry makeup, 2024 was tomato, and after a black cherry winter, we could be in for a raspberry spring/summer this year.

Raspberry makeup was mentioned by Mac Cosmetics as part of its predictions for 2025. Carly Utting, senior artist for Mac, discusses the concept and why she thinks it’s going to be in this spring/summer season.

“Rich deep reds and warm cinnamon crimsons were a huge hit over the holidays. We saw huge popularity for deep berry lipstick combined with smoky pinks and cranberries on the eye, and raspberry makeup is the summer sister to that. Think transparent jelly-like pinks and watermelon glossy cheeks,” she says

Utting and Mac have some other predictions for the spring and summer: “Last season was dedicated to flashes of soft colour. We saw pops of violets and blues and we expect to see lots of cool plums and purples reaching the high streets and other beauty brands,” she adds.

“Nude, contoured lips with a powdery skin is in constant rotation every fashion week. We’re predicting a huge resurgence for soft balmy powdered skin and a matte, contoured lip.”

Y2K revival

The music industry always creates inspiration in beauty and fashion. Last year, Charli XCX’s Brat album was a cultural phenomenon and this year looks nostalgic for the 2000s.

Popular artist Tate McRae has been serving noughties popstar in her music videos, and R&B group Flo are gaining traction after their debut album release. Social media has also seen a resurgence of various ’00s styles – the hashtag #2000s has 3.2m posts on TikTok.

We asked London-based session makeup artist Callista Lorian Thomas how to modernise the ’00s look. “Y2K makeup tends to be characterised by lots of shimmer, pastel pinks and blues and a skinny brow. In the noughties the application had a very effortless, carefree feeling – and subsequently ended up looking quite messy on the average person,” she says.

“To update this, the application needs to have more intention. This can be achieved by using modern blending techniques and layering products. For example, in the ’00s a single glitter shade would be used all over the lid, but laying down an eyeshadow base and crease transition shade in a neutral colour before applying glitter or shimmer to the lids and over the brow bone will modernise the look.” She adds, “Adding additional features to the eye makeup – such as graphic liner, cluster lashes or stick-on gems – will also keep the look fresh.

If the eye is the focal point, Lorian advises keeping the lips pared down and neutral with a slick of shimmery gloss and a lipliner in a neutral shade. “To make the lips the focal point, keep the eyes demure and mindful with a soft wash of colour and a thick slick of black mascara,” she adds. “Frosted lipstick was a Y2K staple, so experiment with shimmer (especially anything with a silver, blue or pink reflect). In the ’00s, bright, white-based lipsticks and shimmers were regularly used alone, but to ground the look and bring it into 2025, outline with a deeper lipliner blended towards the centre.”

For the base, she says the key is not to overload the skin with heavy foundation as this will instantly make the makeup look dated. Instead, apply a fresh skin tint and keep the coverage to where it is needed. “Stay on ’00s brand with a soft pink blush to match your skin tone,” she adds.

Finally, when it comes to brows, skinny, overplucked and thinly pencilled-in arches were the order of the day in Y2K. “If you don’t have naturally thin brows and don’t feel like sacrificing your follicles for fashion, to modernise while staying true to the ’00s vibe, apply a slick of clear brow gel to tame stubborn hairs,” advises Lorian. “You can either brush the hairs out and upwards or follow your natural brow growth, and don’t sculpt or fill too much. Filling in gaps is fine, but you want to keep these looking organic – think Britney circa 2000. To modernise, keep brows minimal while elevating the natural shape. If you have thin brows, pencilling them in is a great option, keeping them skinny and symmetrical. No sperm brows please!”

Smooth as satin

Dewy skin has been the go-to look for the past few years, but it can be quite high maintenance. For a more effortless look, the “no-foundation foundation” and “satin skin” looks elevate and enhance natural beauty, while still keeping the skin’s texture and glow. Makeup artist to the stars, Lan Nguyen-Grealis shares how the two base looks differ, and her top tips for achieving them.

“The ‘no-foundation foundation’ look skips heavy coverage in favour of letting your natural skin shine through. Start with a hydrated base using a lightweight moisturiser or hydrating primer,” she says.

“Use a creamy concealer only where needed (under-eyes, blemishes or redness). Opt for a sheer skin tint or skip base products entirely. Add a touch of cream highlighter to the high points of your face for a healthy radiance. Finish with brushed-up brows, tinted lip balm, and mascara for a fresh, undone look.”

Moving on to the “satin skin makeup” look, Nguyen-Grealis describes this as “a soft, natural glow, somewhere between matte and dewy”.

To achieve it, she advises applying a lightweight, satin-finish foundation or BB cream that evens out skin tone while maintaining a skin-like texture, then using translucent powder only on areas prone to excess shine.

“Use a subtle cream or powder highlighter for a lit-from-within glow,” she adds. “Opt for cream or satinfinish bronze products to add warmth and definition.

“Keep lips and eyes soft with neutral tones and minimal shimmer or pair with a signature tone lip or eyeliner. It’s all about balance and a put-together look rather than a raw finish.”

This article appears in March 2025

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March 2025
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