CELLULAR rejuvenation

Polynucleotides, exosomes and skin boosters have been hitting headlines. Kezia Parkins explores how each one works and who is safe to train in them

Barely a week goes by without a new hot and trendy ingredient in skincare, but some of the most talked-about recently have been polynucleotides, exosomes and skin boosters. These advanced therapies help to rejuvenate the skin at a cellular level, offering a more effective and targeted approach than many more traditional methods. But what exactly are these treatments, how do they differ, and what benefits do they offer in beauty? We ask the experts.

Polynucleotides: the DNA repair masters

“Polynucleotides are natural biopolymers made up of long chains of nucleotides, the building blocks of DNA and RNA. In aesthetic medicine, polynucleotides are often derived from natural sources like salmon DNA and are used for their regenerative properties,” says Dr Elif Benar, a medical doctor and dermatologist who runs Dr Elif Clinic in London.

These molecules have been used in medicine for years, particularly in wound healing and tissue regeneration. Their application in skincare is relatively new but they are gaining popularity fast.

How they work:

When applied to skin, polynucleotides penetrate the dermal layer and stimulate repair of damaged DNA in cells. This helps reverse the effects of ageing by promoting cell turnover and boosting production of collagen and elastin. As a result, skin appears firmer and smoother.

Benefits:

• Enhanced skin regeneration: By promoting repair and regeneration of damaged skin tissues, they are particularly effective for treating scars, stretch marks and fine lines.

• Collagen production: By stimulating fibroblast activity, polynucleotides help increase collagen production, which improves skin elasticity and firmness.

• Anti-inflammatory properties: Polynucleotides have been shown to reduce inflammation, making them suitable for sensitive skin types or postprocedural care.

• Hydration: They boost the skin’s moisture retention, resulting in plumper, more hydrated skin.

Differences from exosomes and skin boosters:

Polynucleotides act by stimulating the skin’s natural regenerative processes at a deeper level. They encourage cellular repair, collagen synthesis and tissue regeneration, which can improve skin quality over time. While exosomes focus on intercellular communication and skin boosters focus on hydration, polynucleotides provide structural and regenerative support.

Delivery system:

“Polynucleotides are often injected into the dermis to stimulate skin regeneration and improve skin quality over time. This method is commonly used for facial rejuvenation, as well as on the neck, hands and décolletage,” says Dr Benar. “They can also be found in certain creams or serums designed to enhance skin repair and hydration and are often used in conjunction with other aesthetic treatments to boost results.

Thanks to their anti-inflammatory and regenerative properties, polynucleotides are ideal for post-procedure care for laser or microneedling to accelerate healing and minimise downtime.

Who are they best for?

Dr Benar says that those experiencing loss of elasticity, fine lines and wrinkles will really benefit from the regenerative properties of polynucleotides.

Also, those who suffer from skin damage from environmental factors, scarring or post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and skin conditions like dermatitis and rosacea will benefit.

“Patients looking for a treatment that offers more than just temporary hydration or plumping will find polynucleotides a valuable option due to their deep regenerative effects,” says Dr Benar.

Who should perform this treatment?

Polynucleotides are mostly carried out by medic injection – especially the ones derived from DNA. “Therapists can feel safe using polynucleotides that are synthetic providing they are administerred via electroporation or ultrasound,” says skin expert and trainer Andrew Hansford, founder of ACH Aesthetics. “Medical treatments based on injections can often be used by the beauty market using techniques that push products and ingredients into the skin.”

If you’re unsure whether you are allowed to be using a product and how to use it, you should always speak to the distributor.

Exosomes: the cellular communicators

Exosomes are tiny vesicles secreted by cells that play a crucial role in intercellular communication. Not to be confused with polynucleotides, some exosomes like E-50 are also collected from the testes of salmon.

“They are nano-particles that are naturally released from cells, especially stem cells,” says Dr Sof Rimouche, who runs Dr Sof Plastic Surgery in Cheshire. They carry proteins, lipids and genetic material from one cell to another, influencing various cellular processes, including regeneration, inflammation and immune responses. In skincare, exosomes are derived from stem cells of humans, animals or plants and are used to enhance skin rejuvenation. Human-derived exosomes are illegal in most parts of the world but synthetic formulations are becoming more readily available.

“People can be put off when they hear about synthetics but I always remind them of insulin, which has been synthesised for over 20 years and is something people cannot live without, and, of course, HRT,” says Hansford.

“Synthetically made exosomes can be created to be human compatible, meaning they work with our body’s natural regenerative power without the danger of taking on genetic cargo. They are closer to our DNA than those from plants or animals and should, therefore, be more effective.”

How they work:

Exosomes penetrate the skin and deliver their cargo of growth factors, cytokines and other bioactive molecules directly to skin cells. This process helps to stimulate collagen production, reduce inflammation and promote skin repair.

Benefits:

• Anti-ageing: They boost collagen production, visibly reducing fine lines and wrinkles and enhance skin elasticity and firmness.

• Regeneration: By promoting the regeneration of skin cells, exosomes help to repair damaged skin and improve the appearance of scars, hyperpigmentation and other skin imperfections.

• Inflammation reduction: Exosomes have anti-inflammatory properties, making them ideal for rosacea or acne.

Delivery system

Exosomes are often applied topically to the skin in combination with light microneedling, which is also becoming popular in trichology.

“Exosomes promote hair growth by enhancing the activity of hair follicle cells, improving blood circulation in the scalp, enhancing the communication in between cells and reducing inflammation,” says Dr Rimouche. “The treatment involves applying the exosomes topically or post microneedling, where they can stimulate dormant hair follicles, increase hair density and potentially reverse hair thinning.”

Who is it best for?

“Anyone looking to improve their skin condition will benefit from Exosomes,” continues Dr Rimouche.

“It is also especially recommended for those with inflammation such as acne, psoriasis, eczema or rosacea. Also, those who suffer from large pores, pigmentation and dark undereye circles will see superior results.”

“Exosomes can be transformative for really deep pigmentation and melasma,” adds Hansford, “especially for the deeper Fitzpatrick tones who may be more cautious of peels.”

Differences from polynucleotides and skin boosters:

While polynucleotides focus on DNA repair, exosomes are more about enhancing cellular communication. They don’t just repair; they instruct the cells to behave more youthfully, which can have a broader impact on overall skin health. Additionally, exosomes can address a wider range of skin concerns due to their multifaceted effects on the skin.

Who should perform this treatment?

As no exosomes have been approved by the likes of the Food & Drug Association (FDA) or the MHRA, they are not allowed to be injected. “Exosomes are not an injectable, they are implanted via microneedling, which opens up the regenerative power of exosomes to the beauty market,” says Hansford.

Skin boosters: the hydration heroes

Skin boosters are injectable treatments designed to improve skin hydration, texture and elasticity. Unlike traditional dermal fillers, which are used to add volume to specific areas, the aim of skin boosters is to work by evenly distributing hyaluronic acid across the skin to enhance its overall quality.

“Skin boosters are essentially there to hydrate and improve the health and quality of the skin and can be used anywhere from the under eyes, face, neck or body,” says Dr Ash Soni, who runs The Soni Clinic in London.

How they work:

Skin boosters are typically made from hyaluronic acid, a substance naturally found in the skin that retains moisture. When injected, they attract water to the treated area, leading to increased hydration and a plumper, more radiant appearance.

Benefits:

• Deep hydration: Skin boosters provide intense hydration, making them ideal for dry or dehydrated skin.

• Improved skin texture: By boosting hydration, these treatments help to smooth out rough or uneven skin, giving it a more refined texture.

• Elasticity enhancement: The increase in moisture helps to improve skin elasticity, reducing the appearance of fine lines and giving skin a firmer look.

Differences from polynucleotides and exosomes:

Skin boosters primarily focus on hydration and improving the skin’s surface texture, while polynucleotides and exosomes target deeper cellular processes. Skin boosters are an excellent option for those looking to enhance their skin’s appearance without altering its structure, whereas polynucleotides and exosomes offer longer-lasting rejuvenation by addressing the underlying causes of skin ageing.

“A big advantage of skin boosters is that they are typically quicker to work and kick in than polynucleotides or exosomes, which need a bit more time to get going,” adds Dr Soni.

Delivery system:

Skin boosters can be injected deep into the skin’s dermal layers or applied more superficially using mesotherapy.

Who are they best for?

Skin boosters are an excellent option for those who have dry skin or are looking to enhance their skin without altering its structure. “A big advantage is that they are typically quicker to work and kick in than polynucleotides or exosomes, which need a bit more time to get going,” adds Soni.

Who should perform this treatment?

Skin boosters are usually injected, putting them in the domain of medics, but beauty therapists should look into mesotherapy and microneedling in order to use them for their clients, says Hansford.

“Skin boosters are classed as a medical device so therapists shouldn’t be injecting them but unfortunately many are,” he adds. “However, you can use them very superficially… It’s not going to work in the same way but this can achieve an amazing glow for a couple of weeks.”

Better together?

Choosing between polynucleotides, exosomes and skin boosters depends on your client’s skin concerns and goals. If they are looking to repair and rejuvenate the skin at a cellular level, polynucleotides or exosomes may be the best choice. If hydration and improved skin texture are your client’s primary concerns, skin boosters provide a quick and effective solution. These treatments are particularly beneficial for those with dry skin.

Many clinicians may go for a combination approach, using polynucleotides, exosomes and skin boosters together to achieve ultimate skin rejuvenation. By understanding the unique benefits of each, you will be able to work with your client and their skin to come up with the best protocol for them.