Spotlight on... SPILANTHOL

With alternatives to injectables seeing a rise in popularity, Ellen Cummings gets the expert lowdown on nature’s answer to wrinkle relaxants

While it seems as though the list of wonder skincare ingredients is constantly growing, spilanthol stands out from the crowd thanks to its wrinkle-reducing effect which has been proven through clinical testing on the face, neck and décolleté, demonstrating wrinkle reduction via instrumentation, expert grading and self-perception.

“Often referred to as a ‘natural botox’, or its marketing name ‘biobotox’, it is a natural and fast-acting muscle-relaxant due to its ability to relax subcutaneous muscles when applied topically,” says Cigdem Kemal Yilmaz, a chemical engineer and founder of Skin Masterclass.

Its benefits make it a prime candidate for skincare superstardom, so it might be something you want to think about adding to your products or treatments. “It’s natural, gentle, effective and has fast and long-lasting benefits; a list that checks many of the boxes of what people are looking for,” explains Emily Philen, senior manager of scientific affairs at Murad.

Furthermore, non-invasive professional treatments and products that contain botanical-based ingredients are becoming increasingly popular, adding to the allure of spilanthol.

“Given spilanthol’s ‘natural botox’ effects, it’s highly possible that a shift towards using it as a replacement or precursor to injectable treatments will gain popularity, especially as more research about its efficacy comes to light,” adds Yilmaz.

What is it?

Spilanthol (C14H23NO), or spilanthes acmella flower/stem extract as it appears on INCI lists, is a naturally occurring bioactive compound found in the asteraceae family of plants. The plant is native to tropical and subtropical regions; Murad sources its spilanthol from two partners in South Africa and Madagascar, which only harvest the upper flower buds to preserve the natural development of the rest of the plant.

This plant has been used in traditional medicine for centuries thanks to its analgesic properties, often being called the “toothache plant” due to its ability to reduce pain. Also known as electric daisy or paracress, this ingredient can be found in skincare creams, gels and serums.

Yilmaz says that it’s relatively stable as a skincare ingredient but, like many botanical extracts, its stability and effectiveness can be influenced by formulation, packaging and storage conditions.

How does it work?

“Renowned for its high alkylamides content (proven to be excellent markers of anti-ageing efficacy), spilanthol works primarily through its musclerelaxing properties, which help reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles,” explains Yilmaz.

“Spilanthol interacts with ion channels in the neuromuscular junction, particularly affecting sodium and potassium ion channels. This interaction helps inhibit the transmission of nerve impulses to muscles, reducing the involuntary contraction of facial muscles. This leads to a reduction in the appearance of dynamic wrinkles, such as those caused by repetitive facial expressions such as frown lines and crow’s feet.”

Philen adds, “One in-vitro test was done on an artificial dermis model, which showed contraction of fibroblasts and interlinking collagen fibres; this action could be attributed to a firming or tightening mechanism of action.”

Spilanthol has also been noted for its antioxidant, moisturising and soothing benefits, as well as a mild local anaesthetic effect, which can all contribute to protection of skin and helping maintain youthful or less-stressed skin.

Who is it suitable for?

Another benefit of spilanthol is its near-universal application. “Wrinkles and laxity are extremely common symptoms of ageing skin and stressed skin, so the smoothing of texture and firming from the spilanthes acmella flower extract are beneficial to anyone experiencing visible sign of ageing or stress – in other words, everyone,” comments Philen.

Yilmaz says spilanthol can also help reduce inflammation and redness in inflammatory skin concerns such as rosacea and acne vulgaris. She adds, “It is also beneficial for dry skin concerns thanks to its hydrating properties, and can help calm sensitive skin, reducing the likelihood of adverse reactions.”

However, there is limited data on the safety of spilanthol use during pregnancy and breastfeeding. Since it is a bioactive compound, it is advisable for clients to consult a medical professional before using products which contain spilanthol if they are pregnant or breastfeeding.

What can it be combined with?

Combining spilanthol with other skincare ingredients can enhance its benefits and address multiple skin concerns simultaneously. Spilanthol has also shown effective skin penetration properties that improve the absorption of other active ingredients of a cosmetic product, which contributes to its increased efficiency, making it an attractive option for product formulators.

Yilmaz explains, “Due to its versatility and tolerability, it works well with many well-known ingredients such as hyaluronic acid (which complements the muscle-relaxing action of spilanthol by plumping the skin), peptides (to boost collagen production), vitamin C (to brighten and boost spilanthol’s antioxidant properties), niacinamide (to boost its soothing and antiinflammatory properties), and ceramides (to maintain the skin hydration and barrier function), as well as soothing agents such as aloe vera.”

Nevertheless, if clients are using active ingredients in separate formulations, such as an AHA toner or retinoid serum, it’s advisable to avoid combining these with spilanthol to avoid skin irritation.