See the light

This month’s launches and tried treatments harness the power of LED and hands-on expertise

Dermalogica Restore Post-Care treatment

Dermalogica’s latest treatment, Restore Post-Care, is a calming service designed to reduce discomfort after aesthetic procedures and support the recovery process to decrease downtime and enhance results. It can be used after microneedling, radiofrequency microneedling, non-ablative laser, fractional laser, IPL and peels.

The facial is centred around Dermalogica’s new Cooling Biocellulose Masque, which contains key ingredients including isopulegol, a natural cooling agent; hyaluronic acid with high water-binding capacity to hydrate; moisturising pro-vitamin B5; soothing madecassoside; and passion fruit seed oil. In the treatment, the mask is used alongside Dermalogica’s Pro Restore Concentrate, a clinically proven treatment booster created to accelerate wound healing for micro injury. The treatment also includes the use of red LED in combination with the Light Energy Masque, which amplifies the effects of light therapy using ingredients such as lindera root extract to improve skin resilience, radiance and hydration, and olive leaf extract to work on fine lines and wrinkles.

Dermalogica recommends salons set their own pricing for the Restore Post-Care treatment 0800 917 7147 / dermalogica.co.uk

Tried and tested…

Is Clinical Fire & Ice facial with Déesse Pro Light Therapy and Sculpta

The lowdown: Renowned facialist Sarah Brown offers the Is Clinical Fire & Ice facial with a twist from her treatment room at London department store Fortnum & Mason. The Is Clinical Fire & Ice Facial aims to bridge the gap between a mild facial and an invasive peel by combining glycolic acid with retinol to resurface skin and encourage cellular renewal.

I’d already tried this facial a few years ago and loved it, but with her expert knowledge, Brown was able to make the experience even more unforgettable by adding two other technologies to enhance results.

The experience: I was having a really tough week when I went to see Brown, which she picked up on immediately without me having to say a word and despite us having never met. After the consultation, I was settled on a warming bed where she cleansed my face with Is Clinical’s antioxidant-rich Cleansing Complex. She warned me as she worked down to my decolletage that this part of the body holds a lot of emotion. As soon as she started working below my neck, my eyes started to tear up.

I was genuinely amazed by her empathy and emotional insight and also her expert hands. She was patient with me as I settled back down and before the “fire” stage – the Intensive Resurfacing Masque, which exfoliates without peeling and was a bit tingly.

Throwing in a bespoke step, Brown put me under the Déesse Pro Light Therapy mask for 10 minutes on skin-healing mode, which combines red, blue and near-infrared light to help skin heal faster.

Then, it was time for the “ice” stage, where the cooling Rejuvenating Masque was applied to hydrate and soothe post-peel inflammation. The next technology introduced was the Sculpta device, which combines electrical muscle stimulation and radiofrequency and was used on each side of my face while the mask was on. I was shocked by the power in this device as it really put my muscles to work without being uncomfortable. I could feel the instant lifting effect as Brown used the device to sculpt.

To finish, she layered on Is Clinical’s Eye complex, Pro-heal, Moisturising Complex and Extreme Protect SPF 30. The verdict: It was such a privilege to experience a facial with someone so skilled and talented at what they do. The Fire & Ice facial never fails to disappoint but was made all the more special by Brown’s touch and presence as well as the devices she used to enhance the results. I left feeling renewed and hopeful and glowing. Business benefits: Making a well-known facial bespoke in this manner is a great way to upsell add-on treatments while also boosting results for the client… it’s a win-win.

Tried by Kezia Parkins

Recommended price for the Fire & Ice facial is £80–£150. Bespoke versions with add-ons can command a higher price. All devices are sold by Harpar Grace International 020 3868 6242 / harpargrace.com

Tried and tested…

Agnes dos Santos eyelash extensions

The lowdown: Agnes dos Santos offers vegan-certified luxury lash extensions, customised for every client by expert stylists at its London salon. The company also offers eyelash extension certified training for lash techs in classes or one-to-one setups, as well as mentoring masterclasses. 

The experience: I visited the Agnes dos Santos salon the day before my extension appointment, where I was greeted by salon manager and lash expert Daria Wojtasik for my patch test and consultation. She went through the options, showing me examples of the lashes and explaining the process, giving me a clear understanding of what we’d be able to achieve with my natural lashes as a base. Wojtasik pointed out that due to my complexion and dark blonde hair, their brown lashes may be a good option for me.

I filled out a consultation form before Wojtasik attached a couple of lashes as a patch test. I was given homework, to find some reference images, and off I went for 24 hours.

The next day, after a problem-free patch test, I showed Wojtasik pictures of natural-looking, fluttery lashes, with the brief of “my lashes but better”. We agreed dark brown lashes would be fun, and that I’d like a lifted look, as I curl my lashes every day anyway.

The process itself was relaxing, the salon was quiet, with spa-style music, and lying down for an hour couldn’t be described as strenuous. For thickness, Wojtasik chose a 0.15mm lash to give a light mascara effect, using 7mm and 12mm lengths and mixing sizes in-between for a realistic look. After the appointment, I was given an aftercare leaflet and an eyelash spoolie to help keep my lashes tangle-free. Wojtasik advised that I avoid sleeping on my side the first night, along with other tips to help retention.

The verdict: I’m really pleased with my new lashes. They define my eyes without being over the top, and the dark brown helps them look natural against my colouring. The consultation was incredibly thorough, and Wojtasik listened well to achieve a look I was happy with. I could tell she prioritised the health of my natural lashes, which was reassuring.

Business benefits: A good set of extensions will keep clients coming back for infills, and when the natural lash health is prioritised, there’s scope for years of repeat custom. Retailing lash shampoo or full aftercare kits can bring in extra revenue.

Tried by Erin Leybourne

Agnes dos Santos charges £179 for a full set of eyelash extensions. 020 7602 7040 / agnesdossantos.com

Tried and tested…

Relax Signature Facial

The lowdown: Relax’s founder, Katie White, created the Signature Facial to offer clients the best of both worlds – a relaxing, nourishing facial that also provides visible results thanks to the inclusion of advanced techniques and technologies. Each facial is tailored to the client and can include tech such as high frequency, LED light therapy, microcurrent and microneedling, alongside facial and intraoral massage, depending on the client’s needs. 

The experience: I visited Relax’s flagship in Borough Yards, London, for a treatment with senior facialist Alexander Dodds. He started with a consultation to tailor the treatment to my skin goals; it was the middle of wedding season, so I wanted a glow with no downtime. Dodds decided on a facial with high frequency and LED light.

Dodds began with a double cleanse before applying the Centella Asiatica Facial Mask from Olixa, a soothing mask which also contains azelaic acid – this helped to fade some of the postinflammatory hyperpigmentation I was experiencing after recent breakouts. Dodds then moved onto the tech portion of the treatment, using a high frequency tool and LED to boost blood circulation and cell renewal, and in turn support collagen production. Dodds also included more traditional techniques, including facial massage movements and facial cupping, which further boosted blood flow and gave my skin an immediate lift and glow, as well as a much-needed hand and arm massage.

He finished with Relax’s Bounce Back Serum – with hyaluronic acid, glycerin, and glycolic and lactic acids – for hydration, as well as SPF 30 from Everyday Humans. 

The verdict: While I supplied Dodds with a vague “Glowing, I guess?” when he asked what I wanted from the treatment, his expertise meant he knew exactly what my skin needed and could adapt the facial accordingly. He did mention that microneedling would have benefited my skin even more, but we didn’t want to risk the downtime as I had a wedding a few days later. Nevertheless, I left feeling rejuvenated – from both the skincare and massage – and safe in the knowledge that the tech Dodds used would continue to benefit my skin beyond the immediate aftereffects.

Business benefits: Having a signature facial sets you apart because you’re providing something unique. Clients are typically willing to spend more on a bespoke and high-quality service, and you can adapt this to whatever you’re passionate about. This distinctiveness also helps to build brand identity and makes for a great focal point for your marketing. You can find tips on how to create your own signature treatment on page 43.

Tried by Ellen Cummings

Relax charges £105 for a 60-minute Signature Facial. 07983717304 /relax-ldn.com