SHED SOME LIGHT

Deciphering which laser or IPL is right for your business can be confusing. We share some expert advice on how to make an informed choice

Doing your research before investing in a laser or IPL device is vital. Ensuring you choose the right system for you can not only save you time and money, but can make or break your salon’s reputation. While laser and IPL machines are hugely versatile, the most common salon uses are hair removal and skin rejuvenation.

Lasers for hair removal

Although all wavelengths used for laser/ IPL hair removal are suitable for the removal of the hair itself, they are not all necessarily appropriate for all skin types I–VI on the Fitzpatrick scale. “Lighter colour skin can be treated with any of the wavelengths, while darker skin requires wavelengths that are not as well absorbed by melanin, which means they go deeper into the skin, bypassing most of the skin’s epidermal melanin,” says Kerry Belba, laser trainer and clinic director of Laser Skin Solutions in Bournemouth. “Lasers and IPLs emitting light between approximately 650nm and 1100nm can all be used to permanently reduce hair but each has its advantages and limitations.”

Some of the main systems in use now are Alexandrite, Nd:YAG, diode and IPL, and each has its own strengths and weaknesses.

“Alexandrite 755nm lasers can effectively treat all hair colours, including finer, lighter hairs providing there is some melanin present; however, they can be uncomfortable and are only really suitable for white skin types I to III,” explains Belba.

“Diode laser 810nm is a popular choice due to its ability to treat a wide range of skin types. These were the first lasers to be used for “in-motion” or “pain-free” modes with energy being delivered gradually to the skin for maximum comfort. However, not all diodes have “pain-free” modes.

“Nd:YAG 1064nm is considered the safest of all lasers for treating dark skins due to its long wavelength. But due to the depth of penetration, it can make treatment more uncomfortable. Low melanin absorption means efficacy can be limited on fine or fair hairs,” continues Belba.

“Intense light sources, commonly referred to as IPL devices, are popular due to their versatility and ability to treat a wide range of skin types. However, quality and spec varies enormously and treatment outcomes depend very much on peak power output and how the energy is delivered in terms of pulses, pulse durations and delays,” she advises.

Lasers for skin rejuvenation

When selecting a laser for skin resurfacing, Dr Nick Lowe, consultant dermatologist at Cranley Clinic in London, explains there are several parameters to consider. “Some lasers are what we call chromophore specific. So, you can use the Alexandrite and related lasers to target pigment or you can choose lasers with non-specific absorption,” he explains. “These longer wavelength lasers like the erbium yag and the CO2 are strongly absorbed by water within the skin or the tissue, so they don’t require a specific chromophore.”

Another factor is non-ablative versus ablative. Non-ablative is usually used for mild to moderate skin issues while ablative lasers are used by medical professionals for more severe conditions. “The decision is dependent on what is required in terms of the depth of injury, the intensity of the energy, the density of the delivery and the laser tissue interaction,” explains Dr Lowe.

The use of fractional lasers for skin rejuvenation has become more popular recently, as Dr Lowe explains. “Fractional lasers are able to fragment the laser beam into minute microscopic channels. This is a way of scattering the beam, of being more in control, and also, because you’re skipping areas, of achieving a more uniform effect and less severe surface damage.” By adjusting the energy as well as the density, operators can scatter those micro thermal zones more widely. “With an increase in energy you can vary the depth of penetration, which offers much better control and variability than the older lasers,” explains Lowe.

Fractional lasers can be used to treat a wide variety of indications such as facial and neck rejuvenation, some body skin rejuvenation, and scars and stetch marks. Some can also treat pigmentation.

Intense puled light (IPL) is also often recommended for rejuvenation treatments, particularly to treat vascular and pigment issues.

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