Professional Beauty
Professional Beauty


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News

Exposome named skincare trend to watch, as microbiome products drive UK sales

The trend for skincare that treats the microbiome is set to develop to encompass the exposome – a term used to describe the effect of environmental aggressors on the structure of the skin.

In new research, analyst Mintel found that microbiome skincare is currently driving the UK facial product market, with more than 37% of the world’s microbiome skincare products launched in the UK last year.

Mintel’s Jane Henderson, global president of the beauty and personal care division, said, “In the next five to 10 years, the skincare industry will expand from simply focusing on the microbiome to also include the exposome – external environmental factors like pathogens, fungi, pollution and plants that interact with our DNA and affect our health.

“This will inspire new product development that takes a bespoke and holistic approach to skincare and health, such as exposome-measuring wearable devices, bespoke ingestibles, personalised DNA nutrition, and products that boost skin health and personal air quality.”

The research also showed that 71% of UK skincare launches in 2018 were in the prestige/luxury category, up from 54% in 2008, while budget and mass-market products accounted for just 10% of launches, compared with 14% 10 years ago.

When it comes to make-up, the “clean” beauty revolution has taken over, with the UK the leading European market for colour cosmetics billed as toxin-free in 2018, accounting for 21% of all global launches in this trend. The UK market was valued at £2.1bn in 2018.

Scottish salon offers clients free tans in reaction to body-shaming stories

Scottish beauty salon She is Beauty offered its clients free spray tans for a week in reaction to a story about an Australian tanner who told her customer to lose weight or pay extra. The generous initiative was in response to a body-shaming text message conversation that went viral.

In the exchange, an Australian tanner asks her client what size she is, with the customer saying, “I’m a size 10–12 AU. Why is that?” The tanner replies: “My regular clients are a max size eight. It’ll be $20 extra as there’s more surface area if you know what I mean”, adding, “If you don’t want to pay a $20 surcharge maybe lose a little! Not trying to be mean, it’s just the industry.”

She is Beauty took to Facebook to condemn the tanner’s actions: “No matter what your age or size is, you will never be made to feel uncomfortable in our salon. As my way of an apology for this girl’s ignorance I’m offering free spray tans to everybody for the week beginning February 25.”

The story also sparked industry outrage, with celebrity tanner Jules Heptonstall commenting: “This is not industry standard. You should never ever be charged more or less because of your body shape.”

Chrissi Sainsbury, from Hair Extensions by Chrissi, added: “It’s like saying you would charge more to paint someone’s nails if they were a bit longer. You just wouldn’t.”

Nail and waxing salon Mooeys outlines plans for five new sites

Nails and waxing specialist salon chain Mooeys is launching a franchise scheme, with the goal of opening five new salons in the next two years.

Owned by director Amy Lewis, the mid-range, quirky brand already has two successful salons in southeast market towns Horsham and Farnham, but wants to expand its remit.

“The brand is really strong and I want to grow it. I want to use the franchising scheme to help guide beauty therapists who want to set up their own business but don’t know how to go about it,” said Lewis. “Beauty therapists are really creative but aren’t necessarily always good business people.”

The franchise fee is £19,500 and includes management training, therapist training, support with recruitment, help with business plans, full marketing collateral and website set-up. The franchisee would need to do the shop fit out, with Lewis’s assistance, and buy the Phorest online booking system.

Two franchises are already slated to open in Salisbury and Haslemere by the end of June, with premises secured. Lewis would then like to open a further three in 2020.

“I want to do it right and do it properly, which is why the number isn’t huge. I want people to get the right amount of support when they invest in a franchise with Mooeys,” adds Lewis.

Jiva Spas makes European debut with London’s Taj Hotel

Indian hotel group Taj has opened its first Jiva Spa in Europe at Taj 51 Buckingham Gate in London.

The new spa offers Ayurvedicinspired healing therapies combined with a contemporary Mediterranean wellness philosophy.

It features three treatment rooms (two singles and one couples’ room), a relaxation area with vitality pool, steam room, sauna and an “emotional shower”; as well as fitness facilities where guests and members can access personal trainers.

The spa will offer Jiva’s healing therapies, which are inspired by the rich and ancient wellness heritage of India and include Vishuddi – an exfoliation using silk gloves followed by full-body lymphatic drainage massage and an Indian herb wrap.

The spa has also partnered with British brand Temple Spa, whose Western influence makes for a diverse treatment menu, with experiences like the Champagne and Truffle Deluxe Treatment – a 90-minute luxury facial that includes lifting massage and uses the brand’s Truffle skincare line.

Taj Hotels runs Jiva Spas in locations including India, Abu Dhabi, South Africa and Maldives.

In brief

// Wax Logic has appointed a new distributor for England, Scotland and Wales. Wax Logic UK will be headed up by husband-andwife team Niko and Annie Foffano, who will be looking after all new and existing accounts.

// The value of the sun care products market is forecast to register a 4.2% compound annual growth rate in the next five years, with the global market size reaching US$13.5 billion (£10.3bn) by 2024, according to the Sun Care Products Market 2019 Global Industry report.

// Boxer Anthony Joshua has joined the CACI fan base after enjoying the brand’s bespoke facial with ambassador and celebrity facialist Shane Cooper. TV presenters Laura Whitmore, Denise Van Outen and Rochelle Humes have also taken to Instagram to show their love for CACI’s hydrating Hydro Mask.

// Cynosure has partnered with MATA (Medical Aesthetic Training Academy) and CIBTAC (Confederation of International Beauty and Cosmetology) to provide endorsed manufacture-led training in aesthetic laser technologies. Cynosure customers who complete the brand’s product training will automatically complete more than 30% of a formal qualification.

// Gerrard International has unveiled a new-look website, which is now fully responsive and simplified for quicker ordering. The site also shows the full breadth of the company’s beauty portfolio and features a journal section to keep customers updated with what the company is up to.

London spa Grace Belgravia closes, blaming Brexit

Women’s-only private members’ wellness club Grace Belgravia has closed, citing uncertainty around Brexit, among both investors and members, as the reason.

London-based Grace Belgravia ceased trading in late February. The club opened in 2012 in the city’s wealthy Belgravia neighbourhood with five treatment rooms and a wet spa. It worked with QMS Medicosmetics, Aromatherapy Associates, Natura Bissé and CACI.

The club’s website displayed a message from founder and chief executive Kate Percival saying the spa had been “a period in our lives that we will always value and we would like to thank everyone who has been part of that journey”.

However, a previous statement that has since been removed from the site explicitly blamed Brexit for the decision. It read: “One word explains why — Brexit. American investors pulled out of funding the company last week because of their increasing concerns about the impact of an aggressive and chaotic Brexit.”

Percival also revealed that many of the club’s high-spending members had already left the UK or were reluctant to renew their memberships given the uncertainty of where they will live after a decision on Brexit is made.

New chair and board for UK Spa Association

Lisa Barden
Adam Chatterley

Lisa Barden has taken the helm at the UK Spa Association (UKSA), as founding chairman Charlie Thompson steps down.

Barden, a spa consultant, has served as vice president since 2017. Thompson steps down after six years, having driven membership growth from 20 to more than 400 spas. He will remain director.

The Association also announced a new board, effective from March. This includes beauty business strategist Adam Chatterley as vice chair, along with new members Jean Paul-Blissett, spa designer and chief executive of Melt Design Hub; Clare Dickens, head of spa at Zelens; Stacey Moore, spa manager at Orsett Hall Hotel; Paolo Andrea Dalla Fina, owner of London Serenity; Emma Pridding, resort sales manager at Carden Park Hotel; Pamela Griffin, co-founder of PS Lifestyle; Abi Wright, founder of Spabreaks.com; and Mark Perkins, spa director at One Spa at Sheraton Grand Hotel and Spa.

In brief

// Medik8 founder Elliot Issac has set up The Zipper Foundation – a charity dedicated to making positive changes around the world. The foundation’s first act was a £10,000 donation to Human Society International to help save 200 dogs from a dog meat farm in South Korea. The inspiration for the charity came from Medik8’s office dog Zipper, who recently passed away.

// Lash brand Nouveau Lashes has launched the Super Natural campaign to raise awareness of its low-maintenance LVL lash lift treatment. Launched in partnership with brand ambassador and actress Michelle Keegan, the digital campaign will educate beauty lovers on the treatment.

// Beauty business SkinBase held a “fee-free” day across its 2,000 UK-based salons, treating its therapists to more than £300,000 worth of free treatments in 24 hours. “Our complimentary treatment days are all about thanking [our] therapists for representing our brand,” said SkinBase co-owner Leesa Keys.

// The Federation of Holistic Therapists (FHT) will host its annual Training Congress on May 19–20, covering a range of topics including therapyspecific modalities. A day pass costs £50 for FHT members. Book at fht.org.uk/congress

// Elemis has collaborated with fashion brand RIXO on a limited-edition skin radiance Elemis x RIXO Beauty Edit kit. The brand has also announced a partnership with British Airways to provide amenity kits for its First cabin customers.

46% of Brits stockpiled their favourite beauty products ahead of Brexit

British women have been stockpiling their favourite beauty products pre-Brexit, with many believing the prices would go up after March 29.

According to research by beauty brand Foreo, 46% of women who use European skincare brands thought the price of their must-have products would skyrocket post-Brexit, with more than one in 10 stockpiling their favourites. Millennials were more likely than any other age group to stash supplies – one in four (26%) were reportedly bulk buying before the Brexit deadline.

A quarter of those surveyed (25%) also said they would struggle most if Brexit led to product shortages in the beauty sector over any others, including long or short-life food products, medication or medical supplies, household products, alcoholic beverages, tobacco or cigarettes.

Waxing elite launch hair-removal event Wax Live 2019

Waxing industry pros Andy Rouillard, Mat O’Marah and Toni Keable are launching Wax Live 2019 – a day of hair-removal education.

The event, which is taking place in Coventry on Sunday, April 28, is a seminar programme split into two education streams – practical skillbased demos, from brows to boyzilians; and marketing-oriented talks, including how to boost your profits and your confidence. The speaker line-up includes waxing pro and salon owner Sam Marshall, Salon System educator Lisa Stone, and PB Awards finalist and owner of Peaches Wax Bar Kerri-Ann Angus. Attendees will also receive a three-course networking lunch and goody bag full of waxing essentials.

Book your ticket: waxlive2019. eventbrite.co.uk

Sustainable Spa Association launches to promote ethical spas

A new association is gearing up to launch, with the aim of accrediting and championing spas that meet high standards of sustainability.

The Sustainable Spa Association (SSA) will be a not-for-profit membership model, established by spa professionals Lucy Brialey, distributor of nutrition brand Hech and former group head of spa for Aspria, and Robert Cooper, managing director of eco towel manufacturer Scrummi Spa.

The aim is to educate spas, salons and brands on their environmental impact and promote profitable, long-term operational sustainability strategies. Members can gain SSA Accreditation, graded from standard through to platinum, by using the association’s self-assessment tool. There is then an option to achieve an industry standard grading that will be audited by the SSA.

In brief

// Distributor Sweet Squared is hosting two-hour Light Elegance (LE) Wow Workshops throughout the UK in April, with LE educators giving techs an overview of the brand and demoing products. Check out the dates at mysweetsquared.com/education/course/315

// Sinclair Pharma is rolling out regional events across the UK after its successful launch at the Heakthxchange Academy in Manchester in February. The event saw UK aesthetic practitioners cover how to get the best results using the Sinclair Pharma portfolio. The roadshow will be visiting Darlington and Birmingham in April and London and Bristol in May.

// All Saints Spa in Suffolk has teamed up with Elemental Herbology to offer the brand’s selection of holistic therapies and products. “It’s the perfect setting for [the brand], with the spa’s emphasis on restoring balance and relaxation,” said Elemental Herbology managing director Carolyne Beck.

// Margaret Dabbs has launched its range of hand and foot treatments into The Wellness Clinic at Harrods, London, including the Medical Pedicure.

//The Global Wellness Summit 2019 is accepting submissions for its fourth annual Shark Tank of Wellness competition. Open to students, the Dragons’ Den style competition will see finalists present their wellness concept idea to the “Wellness Sharks”, with the winner receiving $10,000. The application deadline is May 15.

CACI unveils modern rebrand

Machines brand CACI revealed its new image at Professional Beauty London in February. The decision was taken to refresh the brand’s look in a bid to better reflect its evolved treatment offer, which now includes more than just devices for anti-ageing facials.

Managing director Dean Nathanson commented: “I felt that the CACI brand was still primarily focused on the core CACI non-surgical face lift treatment and our materials only identified with women of a certain age.” The brand wanted to represent its entire clientele, including men and younger clients looking for solutions to problem skin, as well as those in their thirties interested in preventative treatments.

CACI’s brand colours now draw from a neutral palette, while new brochures, advertising and display materials feature a diverse mix of models rather than celebrity endorsements.

Salon System announces expert lash squad

Professional beauty brand Salon System has annoucned the creation of a lash squad for 2019; four lash experts to be the faces of its range of lash products. The team will be available to provide support to salon accounts with training courses and techniques, and comment to media on new products and trends.

The lash squad is: Ruth Atkins, Salon System educator and lash and brow specialist with 30 years as a make-up artist under her belt; Lisa Stone, a freelance beauty educator with experience working on new products; Sammm Agnew, a make-up, body painting and prosthetic design specialist; and Lauren Alice, a freelance make-up artist who has worked for leading consumer magazines and with celebrities. Salon System’s lash product range includes strip and individual lashes, tints and a lash lift.

Diary Dates

// March 23-24 Aesthetic Medicine Live Olympia London Top-level conference and exhibition aimed at clinic owners and teams. 020 7351 0536 aestheticmed.co.uk

// April 3 UK Spa Association Spring Networking Event Rudding Park, Harrogate An event for members and non-members of the association to meet and network.spa-uk.org

// April 7–8 Natural and Organic Products Europe ExCeL, London Trade event with a natural beauty and spa section. 01273 645154 naturalproducts.co.uk

// April 28–29 Scottish Hair & Beauty SEC, Glasgow Beauty trade show including barbering section with stages and competitions. 01332 227698

// May 6–7 World Spa & Wellness Asia Le Méridien Phuket Beach Resort, Thailand Asia edition of the World Spa & Wellness conference with networking and brand showcase. 020 7351 0536 worldspawellness.com/asia

// May 17–19 IMATS Olympia, London Make-up show for trade with classes and exhibitors. +1 360 882 3488 imats.net

// May 19–20 Beauty UK NEC, Birmingham Trade event for beauty with awards and forums. 01332 227680 beautyukshow.com

This article appears in the April 2019 Issue of Professional Beauty

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This article appears in the April 2019 Issue of Professional Beauty