Show of hands

Facial massage is back in the spotlight as an event prep essential. Ellen Cummings looks into its booming popularity and gets the experts’ top tips

Despite all the gizmos and gadgets available for facial treatments, we all know there’s still nothing quite like a hands-on massage. Facial massage has a miscellany of benefits, both mental and physical – the human touch provides a natural boost of dopamine and serotonin and reduces cortisol while the manual action encourages circulation and lymph drainage.

There have also been some studies which suggest that applying physical pressure can generate a biological response from skin tissue, particularly fibroblasts, although more extensive studies need to be carried out.

While more advanced treatments like microneedling and laser will have more noticeable and longer-term impacts on the appearance of the skin, facial massage can have an immediate effect with no downtime. Abi Oleck, an advanced facialist, owner of Beau Skin London and previous PB Awards finalist, says, “The immediate benefits of a facial massage are an increase in blood and lymph circulation, which leaves the skin looking brighter and tighter. The serum and oils used for the massage will give the skin a boost in hydration for a youthful, dewy look, while also keeping skin nourished and moisturised. Massage also helps to relieve neck tension and tension headaches for the client.”

However, that’s not to say facial massage doesn’t also have long-term benefits. “Any skin regime that you do consistently is going to have an effect; it’s like going to the gym,” explains skin expert and celebrity makeup artist Nathalie Eleni. “You might have a facial once and feel great, but if you want to have long-term benefits then you need consistency.”

Accumulative results are key, agrees Anna Tsankova, a skin expert, world champion in face massage and another previous PB Awards finalist. “Skin oxygenation and nourishment continues after the session. However, in my opinion, one of the most important long-term benefits is reducing muscle tension in overused expression areas while activating the other ‘lazy’ muscles which brings symmetry and better function in the structures under the skin,” she adds.

Regularly stimulating the lymphatic system through massage can also have long-term effects. Oleck says, “By stimulating lymphatic circulation and using a gentle massage technique, this promotes a clear and glowing complexion, aids in removal of toxins, reduces puffiness and inflammation, and strengthens the immune system. Incorporating lymphatic drainage into your routine can help you achieve a radiant complexion from the inside out while detoxifying your body and supporting overall wellness.”

Rising star

It’s no wonder facial massage is seeing a resurgence in the public consciousness – and its popularity is undoubtedly helped by the fact that it’s become a firm favourite among celebrities. While the stars’ plump skin might sometimes have a little something to do with injectables, the secret behind their glowing complexions can also be attributed to the hands of a beauty therapist – and all three facial massage experts have celebrity clients in their roster. “Facial massage is a must-have treatment prior to makeup application,” says Oleck.

One of the reasons why facial massage is so popular is because it can be used alongside other treatments to achieve the best results. Tsankova explains, “Red carpet preparation is a large team operation and when it comes to skin it usually involves a combination of treatments, from facesculpting massage and manual lymphatic drainage to energy devices such as radiofrequency and LED therapy.”

Oleck agrees with Tsankova’s multifunctional approach to skin prep: “In preparation for the red-carpet events, my celebrity clients love a lifting facial massage combined with 0.2mm microneedling, radiofrequency and LED light. I combine facial techniques designed to target multiple skin concerns.” As is often the case in the social media age, what’s popular among celebrities has trickled down to the general public, so you might be seeing more clients asking for facial massage as part of their skin prep for weddings and other big events.

Explaining the boom in facial massage’s popularity, Eleni says, “More old-school techniques like lymphatic drainage are seeing a resurgence thanks to social media – before-and-after images are really popular, whether it’s people doing it themselves or getting it done by professionals, and you can really see the difference.”

Tsankova adds, “This visibility has not only educated a wider audience about the practice but also demystified it, making facial massage more accessible to people outside of professional spa and salon settings. Social media content often highlights various techniques and tools, encouraging viewers to try facial massage themselves at home and reaching audiences beyond the treatment room.”

While clients can carry out facial massage treatments themselves for maintenance, the best results are achieved at the hands of a trained therapist who knows the optimal lifting and draining techniques, as well as the best ways to use tools like gua sha and rollers.

Expert formula

As with a regular massage, it’s important to use the right products to avoid damaging the skin – especially because the skin on the face and neck can be delicate. Eleni comments, “I love to use oil or a cleansing balm for facial massage. Doing a massage while cleansing ensures a really thorough cleanse and lifts out impurities but also starts the lymphatic drainage and circulation. You can’t go wrong with Elemis’s Pro Collagen Cleansing Balm; it’s so gorgeous to massage with. Sometimes I also blend my own oils – I love rosehip, wheatgerm, evening primrose and grapeseed oils.”

Oleck prefers to massage after cleansing. She explains, “I start by spraying hydrating mist over face and top this with an oil-based product. This water spray and oil technique helps skin retain moisture and prevents transepidermal water loss.”

Expanding on her process, Oleck adds, “Start always with opening the lymph by using a butterfly touch to pump down the neck and across the collarbone. Then, with a light effleurage, use soft, full-palm movements in an upward direction over each side of the face. This is great for poor skin elasticity and warming up the skin. Then use your palms and make the movements deeper, knuckling and rolling in an upwards movement.

“Next, move to tapotement; this brings the glow immediately to the skin. Tapping rain-drop movements with your fingertips and light slapping will boost circulation and bring out the skin’s inner glow. Finally, use pressure point to finish and for added relaxation for the client.”

If you’re prepping a client for an event, Eleni says it’s usually best to carry out facial massage directly before makeup application. She adds, “If the client has a sluggish lymphatic system, then a course of treatments leading up to the event would give the best results. If the client tends to go red, then do the massage a few hours before the event.”