SAVING face

Collagen banking is the latest buzzy phrase taking over the skincare sector, but what does it actually mean? Ellen Cummings gets the lowdown

Collagen is the most abundant protein in the human body, accounting for approximately 30% of the total amount of protein. It’s a building block for muscles, bones, tendons, ligaments and other connective tissues, and can also be found in organs, blood vessels and intestinal lining. Most importantly – for us skincare buffs, anyway – collagen makes up 80% of the skin’s dermis.

“Collagen is the key to maintaining youthful-looking skin. It provides the framework that keeps our skin taut, wrinkle free and resilient,” explains Victoria Evans, education manager at Dermalogica. “It also aids in wound healing and tissue repair, as it forms a ‘scaffold’ for growth of new tissue. Essentially, collagen is the foundation for glowing, healthy-looking skin.”

Collagen production occurs in the fibroblast cells, where the amino acids proline, glycine and hydroxyproline group together to form protein fibrils. Our bodies naturally produce less collagen as we age because of reduced activity in the fibroblasts – Evans says that it declines at a rate of 1-1.5% per year after the age of 30. And, as if this wasn’t bad enough, there’s another big dip on the horizon.

“It’s when we get past 40 that it declines dramatically, particularly in the first few years of menopause where it drops by a whopping 30%. It then steadies off at a 2% decline per year,” says Gina Baker, UK training manager at Germaine de Capuccini.

The body’s existing collagen also breaks down at a faster rate as we age. Evans points to a number of causes of collagen degradation, including UV exposure, environmental pollution, smoking, chronic stress and diet. All of this combined leads to a lack of organisation in the skin’s structure, resulting in fine lines, wrinkles and sagging skin.

What is collagen banking?

The concept behind collagen banking is nothing new to beauty pros but, as with most trends, coming up with a catchy name is a great way to get clients and consumers on board. “Simply put, its prevention rather than correction,” comments Baker.

“Collagen banking is essentially ways to preserve the collagen you have and protect it from degradation to keep skin looking firmer and healthier for longer,” adds Evans. “There are multiple ways to bank, preserve and protect your collagen, from using skincare products to promote and protect skin collagen to adopting lifestyle choices which minimise damage such as wearing SPF daily, eating healthily and reducing stress.”

While some might think that applying collagen topically is a simple solution to boosting collagen levels in the skin, unfortunately it’s not that easy. “Collagen molecules are too large to penetrate the skin’s surface. So, while so-called collagen creams can help with hydration and temporary plumping, they can’t actually boost skin’s collagen levels,” explains Evans.

However, there are skincare ingredients that can encourage the body to produce more of its own collagen. Rochelle Bailey, international education and events specialist at Hydropeptide, says that the best ingredients to help with collagen banking are vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, peptides and retinoids. Peptides are particularly beneficial – for example, palmitoyl pentapeptide and palmitoyl tripeptide mimic skin regeneration by signalling fibroblast cells to make collagen, while arginine lysine polypeptide acts as a sugar trap to prevent the glycation of collagen fibres, reducing collagen degradation.

Beauty treatments are another way to boost collagen production. Bailey, Baker and Evans all highlight microneedling as a gold-star collagen-boosting solution. “Sometimes referred to as collagen induction therapy, microneedling is a minimally invasive service where tiny needles create micro-channels on the skins surface,” explains Evans.

“As the skin begins to heal the injury, it activates the liberation of growth factors. These then stimulate the multiplication of fibroblasts which go on to produce new collagen,” adds Baker.

“Don’t let clients get STUCK IN A RUT with their regime because over time the SKIN WILL ACCLIMATISE to their FAITHFUL TREATMENTS and PRODUCTS, making them LESS EFFECTIVE “

Other treatments that promote collagen production include chemicals peels, radiofrequency, mesotherapy and LED light therapy, while Bailey comments, “If you are looking for a treatment without the use of a machine, facials are a perfect option to stimulate collagen in the skin.”

Injectable biostimulators such as Sculptra also promote collagen production, but these treatments must be performed by trained and qualified medical professionals.

Age appropriate

The traditional view has often been that people in their 20s don’t need to worry too much about their skincare routines beyond the core principles of hydration and and sun protection. However, for those clients for whom the signs of ageing might be a concern in the future, it’s worth starting to take care of their collagen earlier – the phrase “Prevention is better than cure” was mentioned by all three of our experts.

Nevertheless, all clients who are concerned about visible signs of ageing can benefit from collagen-boosting treatments. “All skins can reap the benefits of collagen banking,” says Baker. “However, it’s important for the therapist to assess the correct treatment for the skin type. You wouldn’t want to be performing microneedling or using strong retinol on an extremely sensitive skin when LED with ferulic acid would be a more suitable option. Understanding clients’ skin is vital to get the best from collagen banking.”

Regular maintenance is crucial for long-term collagen banking. “Ideally, we would want clients to have a great daily skincare routine, which is used morning and evening,” comments Bailey. “If a client incorporates the use of peptides, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C every day, and retinoids a few times a week, this will give the perfect blend of ingredients to support the skin’s structure.”

Professional skin treatments every four to six weeks will also achieve advanced results and help maintain optimal skin health, according to Evans.

This combined approached is supported by Baker. “The key here is to combine a variety of treatments and good quality home care,” she says. “Don’t let clients get stuck in a rut with their regime because over time the skin will acclimatise to their faithful treatments and products, making them less effective.

“Manage clients’ skincare journey by allowing time for re-assessment, particularly during seasonal changes and times of stress or following illness. The idea is to kickstart the collagen production and not let it slowly saunter along.”