Chromes & colour pops |

3 mins

Chromes & colour pops

Lollie Hancock asks the experts and analyses the best catwalk beauty looks from AW23 to find the trends your clients will be asking for

Soft goth glam

Try this look with or without a gloss finish

The look that Irish MUA Evelyn Byrne is expecting to see everywhere is one she refers to as “soft goth”.

“This is a look that has been all over autumn/winter runway shows, and is now translating into people’s everyday routines,” she explains. “It can be worn quite minimalistic and pared back, or it can be a full-blown editorial look depending on your client’s aesthetic.” Soft goth has been spotted on several catwalks, including Dolce and Gabbana, Schiaparelli and Dior. But when it comes to creating the look on your clients, building up colour is the key to success.

“My top tip is to move from lightest to darkest with your shadows to ensure you have full control over how intense you would like your overall look to be,” says Byrne. “Start off the eye with a light brown shadow, then transition into a dark grey and then add your black shadow.”

To finish, Byrne likes to pair this look with a black liner in the waterline, and mascara.

To elevate the effect, a glossy, wet look adds texture and is great for catching the light, as Byrne explains: “If you’re feeling adventurous, you can add a clear gloss across the lid to give the perfect editorial runway look.”

Pastel power


Contrary to popular belief, soft-toned pastel shades work beautifully beyond the summer months, with Glow Up season five finalist Axel Brown looking forward to seeing the trends continue through the colder months with an icy winter twist, reminiscent of both Richard Quinn and Connor Ives’s catwalk creations.

“Soft pastel eyes are inspired by the delicate side of nature,” shares Brown.

For winter, rather than finding inspiration in flowers and soft brights, turn to cooler tones to reflect the change in weather. “Look for colours you find over winter within ice and frost,” adds Brown.

Struggling to get a good colour pay-off from your pastels? It all starts with a good primer. “The best way of creating a soft pastel eye is by taking time to prime the lid with a light concealer and setting it with a neutral powder,” explains Brown.

As with the soft goth trend, building your look in layers is important, and a light hand can be key. “Work in light application with the shadow. Start with a large brush and your lightest shade and blend it out,” advises Brown. “Repeat these stages while going deeper with the shades and smaller with the brushes, finishing the look off with a small amount of shimmer lightly applied over the lid.”

Candyland lashes


Take the power of a good pastel beyond just the lid and get some inspiration from Prada’s AW23 runways, where models were sporting long and luscious lashes in a range of peaches, soft pinks and baby blues.

Recreate this look for your clients with a coloured mascara to coat the lashes, or add in coloured accent lashes with a cut-up strip lash for a more subtle look.

Keep it clean


Although the AW23 fashion week season gave a range of inspiration when it comes to bold eye looks and daring lips, one trend that’s not going anywhere, and was a constant across the shows, is “clean girl” skin.

Prada worked with Pat McGrath to bring glowy and natural skin to balance its bold lashes, and Adeam’s soft-skinned and healthy look, reminiscent of that post-facial glow, allowed all the attention to be on its blurred-out burgundy lips.

Move to metallics


A trend that’s set to be huge this coming season is the addition of metallic accents. Get inspired by Chanel’s ultimate cool-girl silver and A.Roege Hove’s Copenhagen Fashion Week creation, and move your clients away from the traditional glitter embellishments in favour of a Christmas chrome, with sleek slivers, smooth coppers, and gunmetal and gold graphic liners.

Go bold with metallic graphic eyes or try layering a wash of a metallic paint pot over a smoky matte eye for a more subtle look.

If your clients are ready to commit to this trend, take inspiration from Di Petsa’s silver lip liner look, for those willing to take the runway directly into the real world.

This article appears in August 2023

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August 2023
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