Most INNOVATIVE 2019 launches

Next gen brows

Clients went wild for the launch of brow lamination – a new treatment that creates natural-looking, brushed up brows by chemically straightening and setting the hairs in place. Seeing the potential for the treatment to supersede microblading in popularity, pro brands quickly launched in-depth training so salons could add it to their menu. HD Brows unveiled its Browsculpt (pictured) Course, which covers how to achieve lamination’s perfect symmetry and correct uneven tails, while The Eyelash Design Company launched HiBrow Lamination, a course that teaches artists how to deliver fluffy, groomed brows that last up to eight weeks.

Missing the point

Needle-free injector pens took off in a huge way in 2019. One of the frontrunners was Meso-Jet from The Smart Group, which is designed to deliver precise amounts of product directly into the subcutaneous and intradermal areas of the skin, using low pressure gas. It launched with a range of peptide and stem cell treatments targeted at everything from skin brightening to hair regrowth.

Since then, several needle-free injector devices have hit the market, and while they’re proving popular, concerns haven been raised about some of the newer devices used to inject hyaluronic acid into the lips, so salons are being advised to do their research thoroughly before adopting this trend.

Drama queen

With the lash extensions sector going from strength to strength, 2019 saw the volume look undergo a transformation, allowing artists to create the most dramatic sets yet. At the head of the trend was Novalash’s London Volume technique (pictured top), which the brand says is its most voluminous treatment to date, creating a bolder look using large fans made from thinner, lighter lashes in a variety of lengths. Meanwhile, Sweet Squared’s lash brand Lashus launched extensions into the market (right), offering a more dramatic full-volume style using a range of individual lashes and pre-made fans.

Bare necessities

Classic extensions were also revamped this year, with new techniques delivering the most natural-looking lash sets to date. Nail Harmony entered the market with Lash Extend (pictured right), delivering extremely subtle classic lashes by focusing on the one-by-one technique, while Lash Perfect launched its British treatment (left), achieving low-key and low-maintenance lashes for clients who want minimal definition. Meanwhile, distributor Re:New Beauty launched lash-extension brand Moka & Sarah, which uses a Japanese technique to create soft, fluffy lashes that slightly taper out at the corner of the eye.

For clients who want even less upkeep, Hive and Lashus both launched lash lift treatments too.

Pillar of strength

The nail market saw builder gels step up a gear to rave reviews. Top innovations included Orly’s all-inone extension product Gelfx Builder in a Bottle – a soak-off sculpting gel that applies like a soft gel but wears like a hard gel. It was praised by techs for its ease of use because there’s no sticky residue or need for separate pots. Meanwhile, The Gel Bottle Inc launched its time-saving shimmer Builder in a Bottle range. The multitasking soakoff products are for sculpting extensions with added sparkle for a stunning finish.

Sea change

With the impact of SPF usage on the environment in the spotlight, reef-safe sunscreens were a priority for the industry. Environmentalists highlighted the issues surrounding ingredients oxybenzone and octinoxate, which have been reported to be harmful for marine ecosystems, and as such pro brands developed sun lotion ranges formulated without these filters. Caudalie’s Suncare Range contains five products developed with guaranteed non-toxicity filters, while Comfort Zone’s Water Soul SPF30 is free from all harmful ingredients, using a DNA-defence biomimetic peptide instead to protect skin. Marinefocused brand Thalgo is also a frontrunner in developing ocean-friendly sun care, having done it for many years.

High profile

Cannabidiol (CBD oil) took the beauty industry by storm, becoming one of the most talked about ingredients of the year. With research detailing the anti-inflammatory and anti-ageing properties of the hemp-derived oil, CBD was soon worked into a range of products and treatments. Some of the big launches included Simply CBD Bronzer, the UK’s first range of CBD oil-infused tanning solutions; sheet mask specialist Barber Pro’s CBD Oil Mask, which helps restore uneven skin tone; and the arrival of organic CBD-formulated body care collection Pineapple Express, which is distributed in the UK by Strip Distribution.

Skin deep

Although we know prebiotics and probiotics are good for our gut, growing evidence has shown that they are also good for our skin, which is why 2019 saw more skincare brands harness live bacteria in products than ever before. Popular launches included Murad’s Prebiotic 4-in-1 MultiCleanser, a gel-to-oil formula that contains prebiotic powder to feed the skin’s good bacteria, and Prebiotic 3-in1 MultiMist, which features yeast peptide to balance the skin’s microbiome. Plus, therapists loved Image Skincare’s Purifying Probiotic Masque, formulated with yoghurtbased probiotics and antioxidant superfruits to purify skin.

Level up

2019 saw the advanced exfoliating treatment hydradermabrasion facial take off in a big way and cement its place on many salons’ menus. HydraFacial launched its Elite machine, which uses patented Vortex- Fusion technology to cleanse, extract and hydrate skin, offering a multi-step treatment that combines hydradermabrasion with a chemical peel, extractions, LED and more. Meanwhile, 3D-lipo’s 3D-HydraO2 Facial device is designed to target hydration, oxygenation, anti-ageing, congestion and skin brightening, using seven different technologies, including the Hydro Peel function, which uses a combination of three solutions to help with bacteria and inflammation.

Breath of fresh air

With the UK’s pollution problem only getting worse, new and advanced products and treatments landed to help defend skin against the fumes. Spa brand Pevonia harnessed the power of micronised charcoal in its Radiance Charcoal Mask to pull toxins out of the skin, while Nimue worked the ingredient into its Skin Thermal Detox Peel, combining it with a thermo-sensory mechanism to aid oxygenation of cells. Meanwhile, Venus Concept’s Venus Glow device was developed to nourish skin that’s been severely dehydrated by pollution, SBC’s Green Caviar Perfecting Moisturiser strengthens the skin’s barrier with its amino-acid and mineral-rich formula; and Sothys Detox Energie Treatment uses a mask system to energise and protect skin.

Leave no trace

While age-related pigmentation from UV damage has been a major concern for consumers for a few years, 2019 saw the focus in innovation shift towards the marks left by acne or other scarring.

In spring, Dermalogica launched Age Bright Clearing Serum and Spot Fader into its adult acne range, with niacinamide and white shitake included to brighten and even skin tone, while in summer, Murad’s Invisiscar Resurfacing Treatment hit the market, developed to work on the size, depth, texture, thickness and discolouration of blemish scars with salicylic acid, tiger grass and vitamin C among other ingredients.

Glow ahead

Celebrity make-up artist Armand Beasley made his first foray into product manufacture in October, with the launch of Pro Body Glow, an innovative little balm that gives skin a sheen while also deeply conditioning. Billed as “beegan” beauty, it’s a collaboration with BuzzBalm Beauty, a brand that makes skin products from beehive ingredients using sustainable practices. However, this is just the first step for Beasley who has ambitious plans to launch a full range of natural, vegan and sustainable colour cosmetics in 2020.

Shade finder

The make-up industry saw an influx of shade-inclusive ranges this year as clients called for more diversity in collections. One brand leading the charge was Mii Cosmetics, with its 16-shade-strong Velvet Radiance Face Base foundation collection, which featured Afro- Caribbean and Vietnamese models in the campaign (pictured). Meanwhile, disability-friendly make-up also took centre stage as brands focused on being all inclusive. For example, Grace Beauty launched with a range of mascaras with different-shaped handles for those with mobility issues.

Keep calm

Following the huge trend for peels and products with highpercentage active ingredients, many brands focused on repairing and calming products in 2019. Elemis launched Cica Calm booster to treat sensitive skin and reduce redness, plus an accompanying Superfood Pro-Radiance Facial; while Thalgo’s new Peeling Marin line featured calming post-peel products including Soothing Repairing Balm.

Age-focused repair was also on the agenda as Germaine de Capuccini’s Time Expert SRNS launched to help skin protect itself during the day and regenerate at night, with 22 different active ingredients, and Eve Taylor’s Rejuvenating Aromatic Serum supported loss of elasticity and texture in post-menopausal skin with oils including clary sage and galbanum.

Cool tools

Following the popularity of Brit nail equipment brand Navy in 2018, more cool tool brands were launched this year by former or current salon owners who know what’s been missing from their kits. In autumn, Nail pro Katie Barnes launched the KB Form Tailoring Range including scissors, C-Curve pinching clips and nail foil supports; while back in summer, Angelica Retreat owner Gillian Potter created Flexi, a line of tools to retail to clients for them to maintain results of advanced facials. It includes a rose quartz roller, silicone cleansing brush, dermal-roller and more.

The full package

Having expanded from just tanning to include waxing back in 2016 and brows in 2018, Sienna X launched an entire skincare range this summer, turning the company into a full-service salon brand. Its 11-piece collection features some on-trend ingredients and textures, with hero products including Retinol Serum, Chemical Peel and Cleansing Balm.

Other staples in the range include day and eye creams, two masks, an exfoliating facial polish, facial oil, toning solution and cleansing lotion. All but one of the products are veganfriendly, which has also been a huge focus for consumers this year, making the line-up one to watch.

Right on target

Body shaping became more targeted in 2019, with launches that promised precise action on stubborn areas of fat. At the start of the year, Lynton’s Onda device made headlines for its Coolwaves – trademarked microwave technology that bypasses the top layers of skin tissue to deliver more energy directly to the subcutaneous fat cells. Then in spring, CACI created Sculpt, using muscle impulse stimulation combined with bio feedback auto adjustment technology, which constantly measures and adjusts the device’s electrical impulses to sync with the client’s heartbeat.

Understanding epigenetics

One of the beauty buzzwords of the year, epigenetics relates to the modification of gene expression in skin’s processes. In autumn, Dermalogica launched Phyto-Nature Firming Serum to help reinfoce the skin’s defences by combining active botanicals with sapphire-bound biomimetic peptides to reduce exposome-driven ageing. QMS Medicosmetics also got in on the act with the launch of EpiGen Pollution Rescue Overnight Mask, designed to revitalise tired-looking skin as the wearer sleeps and boost its resistance to stressors. Botanical ingredients include extracts of paracress, marjoram leaf and tephrosia purpurea seed.

In the mix

Combining oil and water-based actives in a supplement has traditionally been a difficult task, but Advanced Nutrition Programme made a breakthrough this summer with Skin Moisture Lock. Its soft gel formulation blends oilbased ceramides to seal in moisture at the epidermal layer and help support the skin’s barrier, with waterbased hyaluronic acid to smooth and plump the skin. The product is recommended for clients with aged, dehydrated or sensitive skin and for those exposed to pollution.

In the frame

As lash and brow treatments continued to boom, focus returned to the area they frame, with a multitude of treatments launching to give the eye area a lift. In autumn, Lash Perfect created its first eye ritual, iRevive (pictured), which works on dark circles and puffiness using microcurrent to boost elasticity.

Meanwhile, Eye Lift Treatment was one of the biggest 2019 launches from skincare brand Guinot, and also incorporates technology, involving application of Eye Gel Serum around the eye contour and forehead using electrode balls.

Payot also backed the trend with Patch Regard Anti-Fatigue Lifting Express, under-eye patches with collagen peptides.