News

Treatment spend set to reach £8 billion by 2021

Brits will spend more than £8 billion on treatments by 2021 as express and results-driven services grow in popularity, according to research by market analyst Mintel.

It’s a big claim, but if last year’s figures are anything to go by, expenditure will more than match this prediction. In 2017, one in three (33%) consumers indulged in a spa or salon ritual – up from 30% in 2015, resulting in a total yearly treatment spend of £7.6bn, the report found.

“The sector continues to see steady growth…and this is likely in response to the introduction of more technical facial treatments, such as LED and radiofrequency, as well as express treatments,” said Roshida Khanom, associate director of beauty and personal care at Mintel.

In 2017, 14% of Brits booked in for a massage, up from 11% in 2015; 13% enjoyed a manicure, a 3% increase from two years prior; and 10% had a facial, soaring from 6% in the same period – showing that the industry is going from strength to strength.

Technology will not only boost treatment spend but also the way therapists retail, with digital developments in the shopping experience set to make selling easier, according to the analyst’s Global Beauty and Personal Care Trends 2018 report.

“Developments in biometric monitoring will see brands drive unprecedented customisation of the shopping experience,” said Vivienne Rudd, director of global innovation and insight, beauty and personal care at Mintel, with tech that can determine customers’ product preferences by interpreting facial expressions and eye movements.

Experts believe that, in the future, biometric data will go one step further, with salons, spas and retail counters able to use heart rate, body language and speech for a more complete assessment of client preference.

More than half of beauty industry employees are now self-employed, according to new stats

Some 54% of beauty professionals are working for themselves, according to the National Hairdressers’ Federation (NHF) end of year report.

The statistics underline an industry trend for flexible working, and back up the belief that an increase in the number of therapists going freelance is a contributing factor in the industry’s recruitment crisis.

The NHF also found that the number of businesses in the hair and beauty sector increased by 2% in 2017, with the total number of professionals working in beauty, hair or barbering roles now standing at approximately 287,000.

NHF chief executive Hilary Hall said the industry as a whole needed to be careful about how selfemployed workers were treated, and suggested there is a need for new legislation that offers “measures to ensure that workers are not exploited by employers who are simply looking to cut costs and who can therefore undercut competitors who work on more traditional employment models”.

Naked Hare opens first waxing salon in London and plots franchises

Naked Hare has opened its first specialist waxing salon in Brixton, London, and plans to expand across the UK and Ireland with a franchise model.

The salon offers an array of male and female waxing treatments in a cool and modern environment. “I opened the first salon in Brixton as there’s not enough supply for the massive demand for hair removal in South London,” said founder Frankie Farnesi.

Valerie Delforge, who owns consultancy Delforge and Co, is non-executive CEO for the business and is working with Farnesi on the franchise growth, with a model that includes information on protocols, branding, marketing and PR, as well as a full shop fit out.

“We’re looking for franchisees in different parts of the UK and Ireland, especially big towns, like Manchester, which have small communities within them so could accommodate several sites,” says Delforge, who also named Portsmouth as a likely target.

The brand is aiming to launch its first franchise in Q1 of 2018, with hopes to then open 12 per year – one a month – from there.

Lash techs encouraged to alert clients to the dangers of DIY lash extensions

Lash extension pros are urging salons to warn consumers about the dangers of attempting lash extensions at home.

The concern comes after Instagram user @trapical.punch shared a step-by-step guide to DIY lash extensions with followers.

The guide recommends two salonstrength lash glues and instructs readers simply to dip clusters of lashes into the glue with tweezers “and keep doing it until you get them to look how you want”.

Beverly Piper, co-founder of The Eyelash Design Company, said it’s important to highlight to consumers that during professional services the eyes are closed to reduce the chance of getting adhesive in them, and the lower lashes are separated from the upper to avoid sticking them together.

“If you’re using a strong adhesive, your lashes will be difficult to separate without causing damage,” she added.

in brief

// Ultra Violet is Pantone’s Colour of the Year 2018. The colour systems provider said the shade will feature heavily across the beauty sector as “it’s an exciting space for experimentation”, with prestige brands likely to harness the purple hue in eyeshadows, lipsticks and nail lacquers.

// Aesthetic clinic group EF Medispa opened its fifth clinic in the heart of Richmond, London, in December due to client demand, offering customers both non-invasive and invasive treatments. The clinic hosted a launch party with champagne for locals.

// Johnson & Johnson has launched the Digital Beauty Quick Fire Challenge, asking students, entrepreneurs and start-ups to develop the next big technological device that will transform how we use skincare. The deadline for entries is January 19 and the winner will receive $50,000 in funding.

// Guinot franchisee Tina Rai has opened a second location in Beaconsfield. Rai opened her first Guinot franchise in Gerrards Cross in 2014. The second salon has a reception, bathroom and two treatment rooms.

// Lorraine Hornett, owner of Absolute Beauty Treatments in Enfield, won IIAA’s #100DayReset Programme competition, which rewarded the therapist whose client had the biggest skin transformation in 100 days using the company’s brands Advanced Nutrition Programme, Environ and Jane Iredale. Hornett won £1,000 worth of IIAA products.

in brief

// Electrolysis expert Gill Morris received the President’s Award at the 2017 FHT Excellence Awards in November. Morris, who has been in the beauty therapy industry for more than 35 years, was given the award in recognition of her outstanding contribution to the industry.

// A gin-inspired salon has opened in Glasgow. Claiming to be the “very first botanically-inspired day spa in the world”, The Gin Spa offers treatments and packages using JustBe Botanicals products and the expertise of Scottish aromatherapist Gail Bryden. The spa is run by the team behind gin bar Gin71, which has locations in Glasgow and Edinburgh.

// Elemis has expanded its UK reach, partnering with seven Marriott Hotel spas – Hanbury Manor, Ware; Sprowston Manor, Norwich; Tudor Park, Maidstone; Worsley Park, Manchester; Hollins Hall, Bradford; Meon Valley, Southampton; and St Pierre Park, Wye Valley.

// The Eyelash Design Company has signed an Indian distribution deal with One Degree Marketing. The distributor will introduce Lash Perfect and Hi Brow treatments in Mumbai before rolling them out across the country. The brand also recently launched Lash Perfect Lash Lift in Bahrain with Lavish WLL.

// Gleneagles Hotel in Scotland has opened a Bob & Cloche beauty lodge on its premises. The former gate lodge features a nail bar, pedicure room, hair salon and treatment rooms, as well as relaxation areas that resemble old-school drawing rooms, with roaring fires and velvet sofas.

How next-gen consumers will impact the beauty industry in 2018

The beauty industry will switch its focus to future generations in 2018 and away from traditional methods of marketing, says analyst J Walter Thompson’s Innovation Group Future 100 report.

Societal beliefs about what defines beauty are changing, and skincare companies in particular must move with the times and develop a new language to effectively communicate with millennial beauty consumers.

This ties in with a wider rejection of the term “anti-ageing” and its implication that only the young can be beautiful. Instead, to hit the right note with consumers, a brand’s ethos must be at the forefront.

This is particularly important when it comes to reaching the beauty consumer of the future. The report suggested that this younger, postmillennial group wants vegan, crueltyfree and affordable beauty products from brands with a social conscience.

It also predicted that Cannabidiol and metals will be ingredients to watch this year. Cannabidiol is a nonpsychoactive substance found in hemp plants with anti-inflammatory properties, while manganese, platinum, gold and silver will be used as healing actives in skincare products.

Online skin cancer education programme for therapists launches

Skin cancer charity Skcin is launching an online melanoma and skin cancer education programme called Masced.

The free, accredited programme will launch later in January and therapists are being encouraged to register online at masced.uk.

Therapists can complete the accreditation to learn “skin surveillance” techniques that could help them work out when they may need to advise clients to seek medical attention. The idea is that they are often in a position to spot changes that may occur on regular clients’ skin.

Skcin business development manager Marie Tudor said: “This programme fits with the Government’s 2020 Skin Cancer Vision, which looks to make positive steps in combating skin cancer. One vital issue is how to improve the early detection of melanoma.”

NEWS IN PICTURES

Skincare brand Dermalogica has opened its UK flagship in London’s Duke of York Square. The 1,500sq ft store, its largest in the UK, features four treatment rooms, an interactive Skin Bar and a retail area.

in brief

// Insomnia is still a big issue for Brits, with 39% failing to get the recommended minimum of seven hours sleep per night, said research by analyst Mintel. Salons should promote packages that provide better quality sleep, as the average person only gets six hours and 51 minutes per day.

// Lynton Lasers is running a part-exchange deal on its latest Lumina model from January to March. Applicants will be offered a part-exchange price for existing equipment based on purchasing a new Lumina 2018 model.

// Center Parcs spa Aqua Sana Sherwood Forest has announced a partnership with Irish seaweed skincare brand Voya. The spa will host a Voya pop-up in the newly opened Forest Spa between January 26 and February 22. There will be four treatments on offer.

// The Coniston Hotel and Spa in North Yorkshire celebrated its second birthday in November with a series of special events. Local radio station Stray FM broadcasted live from the spa during a drinks reception, and the hotel offered specialist wellness hours throughout the week.

// Caci’s managing director Dean Nathanson gave a welcome speech at the Beauty Companies Association (BCA) Business Education Seminar in November. Nathanson, who is BCA’s chairman, also joined discussions on compliance requirements for the General Data Protection Regulation.

Generation Z cares about beauty launches more than any other demographic

Innovative launches in the cosmetics and skincare markets matter the most to Generation Z, with one in five aged 21 and under on the lookout for new products, according to research by launch strategy specialist Five by Five.

Just under half (42%) of those in this age group learn about beauty innovations on social media platforms such as Instagram and Twitter, which is double the percentage that learn from television adverts (21%), and only 3% believe celebrity endorsements make a new product stand out, the report found.

“For British teenagers and young adults, new cosmetics are more important than new smartphones, movies or TV shows. This is an incredible opportunity for brands in the sector…to really capitalise on engaging these consumers at a young age,” said James Roles, sales and marketing director at Five by Five.

Separate research from money-saving website Vouchercodespro.co.uk showed that the average teenager’s make-up collection comprises £440 worth of products, more than double their mothers’ at £180.

Grafton International remembers co-founder Pat Hardwick

Grafton International co-founder Pat Hardwick passed away on November 28.

Hardwick, who was born in 1938 in Wales, established the distribution company with husband Gareth in 1985 to import nail strengthener Develop 10 from the US, after discovering it while living in California. They built up the company into a large distribution business, which is now run by their son, Jon Hardwick, as managing director.

The Graftons team paid tribute to its founder in a statement: “Pat was a straight-talking character who believed in doing business in a straight-forward way with honesty and care. The discovery of Develop Ten reinforced her desire to find products and brands that would make a real and significant difference to salons and their clients, and these are values which underpin Graftons to this very day.”

Grafton International distributes Orly, ibd, MineTan and Gigi among other brands, and owns professional lash treatment brand The Eyelash Emporium.

NEWS IN PICTURES

Deborah Mitchell has launched a VIP Heaven Skincare space at Morgan House in Covent Garden. She will use the discrete salon, which includes one treatment room, to treat celebrity clients.

diary dates

// IMCAS Annual World Congress

February 1-3, 2018, The Palais de Congrés de Paris, France International conference for aesthetic procedures. +33 (0)1 4073 8282 imcas.com/en

// Professional Beauty GCC & World Spa & Wellness Convention

February 5-6, 2018, The Meydan, Dubai The fourth edition of Professional Beauty in the Middle East. +971 (0)40 375 7300 professionalbeauty.ae

// Professional Beauty and World Spa & Wellness Awards 2018

February 25, Tobacco Dock, London Prestigious awards evening for the beauty, spa, nails and aesthetics markets, recognising those who make a difference to the industry. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/awards

// Professional Beauty London

February 25-26, ExCeL, London Our flagship exhibition returns with exciting new features and products from the best professional brands. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/London

// Fitness Industry Live

February 25-26, ExCeL, London A new exhibition for operators of fitness facilities will run alongside PB. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/London

// Aesthetic Medicine Live, March 17-18, Olympia, London Conference and exhibition for medics and aesthetic therapists, with exhibitors including laser and bodycontouring brands. 020 7351 0536 aestheticmed.co.uk/amlive

Sweet Squared takes on Nimue distribution

CND distributor Sweet Squared has announced the addition of a new brand to its portfolio, Nimue Skin Technology.

The Leeds-based company is now the South African cosmeceutical skincare brand’s sole distributor in the UK. Nimue was developed in 1994 for the medical market and is fronted by brand ambassador Helena Christensen.

The brand categorises skin into four bands: Interactive, Problematic, Hyperpigmented or Environmentally Damaged, and breaks down homecare into three phases to help clients gradually manage changes in the skin. There’s also a range of professional treatments including the starter Active Rejuvenation Treatment, which uses a 15% AHA Bio Active Complex, a cumulative peeling system for acneic skins called the Penta Salaic Treatment; and microneedling with targeted Transdermal Solution concentrates.

Shane Franck, international business development manager at Nimue, commented; “We not only have a passion for great skin, but a huge ingredient in our success story is great people. Everyone we work with carries the same passion and excitement for the industry – and that’s exactly why we chose Sweet Squared (S2) with their unrivalled excellence in professional beauty in the United Kingdom. Sharing the same values and enthusiasm with the S2 team, we’re extremely happy to announce them as our exclusive brand partner in the UK.”

Training will begin with S2 accounts early this year.

Champneys to open its first spa on a cruise ship

Champneys is opening its first ever “spa on the sea” with Marella Cruises.

The health spa group’s onboard spa will open on the Marella Explorer in May and feature a salon, wellness centre and relaxation rooms with beds that boast “stunning panoramic views”, as well as a treatment menu that includes facials, body wraps, massages, manicures and acupuncture.

“We’re thrilled to be working with Marella Cruises, offering the very best Champneys spa experience onboard the Marella Explorer,” said Stephen Purdew, Champneys co-owner.

“We’re confident that our state-ofthe- art spa will bring even more enjoyment to guests’ holidays and can’t wait to hear about their experiences.”

IIAA adds new Salon of the Year categories

Jane Iredale, Envrion and Advanced Nutrition Programme distributor IIAA has announced three new categories for its Salon of the Year awards in 2018.

IIAA accounts will be able to enter Best Newcomer of the Year, Business Game Changer and Therapist of the Year in the 2018 awards, to be held in June. The new categories have been added to recognise excellence in client services, marketing and education.