Business tips

ASK THE EXPERTS

Our beauty experts answer your questions about every aspect of running a salon or spa business

How can beauty professionals safely treat hyperpigmentation in skin of colour?

When treating skin of colour, the biggest concern is hyperpigmentation. Your clients may come into the clinic specifically for pigmentation, but you may also be treating them for acne or other concerns, and those treatments can lead to pigmentation if you're not careful.

This is why it's really important to understand how skin of colour behaves and how to minimise the risks.

Start with the consultation

Fitzpatrick classification isn't enough – it's not enough to ask what colour someone's skin is. It's more important to ask, "Does your skin pigment after it's been irritated? After a pimple, does it leave a dark mark?" That's much more powerful information because it tells you whether their melanocytes – the cells responsible for producing pigment – are easily triggered.

You must also ask about a history of keloid scarring. If somebody is prone to keloids, I would avoid microneedling or anything that creates micro-injury in the skin.

Another important question is whether they're using pigmentation creams from abroad. Ask them to bring those products into the clinic, particularly so you can check for ingredients such as mercury or unregulated hydroquinone.

Calm the melanocyte before treatment

With skin of colour, we have to go slow and gentle. Before any treatment, you need to sedate the melanocyte.

I recommend using tyrosinase inhibitors for two to four weeks beforehand. These ingredients work on the enzyme involved in melanin production, helping to calm pigmentation activity.

You also want anti-inflammatory ingredients, such as centella asiatica, allantoin, aloe and bromelain, alongside consistent SPF 50 protection.

If a client isn't compliant with their pretreatment skincare, that's a warning sign they may struggle with their aftercare too.

Choose your ingredients carefully

Some of my favourite tyrosinase inhibitors include alpha-arbutin, kojic dipalmitate, azelaic acid, liquorice root extract and phytic acid.

I also love niacinamide because it helps inhibit the transfer of pigment from melanocytes to surrounding skin cells.

When it comes to exfoliation, I prefer larger-molecule acids such as mandelic and lactic acid. They're slower and gentler than glycolic acid, which penetrates rapidly and can cause hotspots that lead to further pigmentation.

Aftercare is just as important

One of the biggest mistakes I see is clients stopping their tyrosinase inhibitors once they get results. Pigmentation takes time to treat. It can take six to eight weeks for new skin cells to reach the surface, so clients need realistic expectations.

They also need to be consistent with their sunscreen. I prefer mineral SPF 50, and tinted sunscreens can offer additional protection against visible light.

Ultimately, whatever you do to skin of colour, there is going to be a risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation. All you can do is mitigate that risk through careful treatment selection, preparation and aftercare.

DR VANITA RATTAN

Dr Vanita Rattan is a medically qualified doctor and cosmetic formulator specialising in skin of colour. She founded The Hyperpigmentation Clinic and has developed treatments and products specifically for darker skin tones. She shared this advice on stage during Professional Beauty London 2026.

How can beauty therapists incorporate nutrition into their consultations?

As beauty therapists and skin professionals, we spend a great deal of time asking clients what they put on their skin and what treatments they're interested in. But sometimes there are other things happening on the inside that affect the living tissue we see on the surface.

I always say that the skin tells a story. It's telling us about cellular health, hormones, immunity, inflammation, stress, sleep, movement and nutrition. That doesn't mean we can diagnose what's happening internally from someone's skin, but we should be asking questions that help us understand the bigger picture.

Ask better questions

We've all had clients say, "My skin has suddenly changed, but I haven't changed any of my products." Our immediate response might be to look at their cleansing routine or barrier function, but how much do we actually know about what's changed in their life?

Rather than asking, "Is your diet healthy?", a more useful opening is, "Talk me through a normal day of eating."

What are they having for breakfast, lunch and dinner? Are they snacking? What are they drinking? Explain that you are looking for patterns, not judging their choices.

Are they getting enough food? Where's their protein coming from? Are they eating healthy fats? These questions can help us understand whether nutrition might be part of the picture.

Understand what the skin needs

When we perform an advanced treatment such as microneedling, we're encouraging the body to produce a biological response. The treatment is only the start of the process; the body has to carry on the repair.

For fibroblasts to produce collagen, they need amino acids from protein, energy and vitamin C. Healthy fats, including omega-3 fatty acids, are also important for cell membranes, barrier function and hydration.

This is why nutrition belongs in the skin conversation. We can perform treatments, but the living cells still need the right building blocks to do their work.

Take a food-first approach

I believe we should start with a varied, balanced diet that provides the energy and nutrients that the body needs. That doesn't mean clients need an expensive shopping basket or elaborate meals. Frozen vegetables count, too!

I like to ask what people enjoy eating and what they can realistically add to their diet. It might simply mean having a proper lunch or incorporating protein more consistently.

Supplements can have a place, particularly where there is a documented deficiency or an identified need, but they shouldn't replace a balanced diet. Collagen supplements, for example, may help some outcomes, but they don't replace overall protein requirements.

Most importantly, remember your professional scope. We can educate, encourage and signpost, but we can't diagnose nutritional deficiencies or medical conditions.

Don't be scared of collaborating with other professionals. Sometimes the most useful thing we can do for a client is recognise when somebody else needs to be involved.

KATHRYN BUCKLEY

Kathryn Buckley is a skin professional and qualified nutritional therapist with a background in environmental science. She takes a holistic, evidence-informed approach to understanding how lifestyle, diet and cellular health influence the skin. She shared this advice live on stage at Professional Beauty London 2026.

How should I adapt microneedling techniques for different types of acne scarring?

When treating acne scarring, it's really important to understand that no two scars are the same, and no two clients are the same. Microneedling for rejuvenation is one thing, but acne scar revision is a different conversation. These clients have often lived with acne scarring for years. They have high hopes, but they're also anxious about making their skin worse. As practitioners, we have a responsibility to assess the skin correctly and use the right technique for the right scar.

Start with a thorough assessment

Before microneedling, you need to assess the level of inflammation, Fitzpatrick skin type, barrier health and healing capacity.

If somebody has active inflammatory acne, you shouldn't proceed until that inflammation is under control. You're creating a controlled injury, and adding inflammation to already inflamed skin could take it backwards.

For Fitzpatrick types IV–VI, you also need to consider the increased risk of post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH). You may need to adjust your intensity, start more gently and carefully consider your depth.

I recommend preparing the skin two to four weeks beforehand, focusing on calming active acne, strengthening the barrier, daily SPF and pigment-regulating ingredients where appropriate.

Match the technique to the scar

First, distinguish between post-inflammatory marks and true atrophic scars. Hyperpigmentation and erythema are primarily changes in colour, whereas atrophic scars involve a loss of collagen and visible depressions in the skin.

For atrophic scars, we recommend a controlled full-face base pass, followed by targeted techniques according to scar type.

Rolling scars create a wave-like appearance, often with fibrous bands pulling the skin down. We use a slow, focused circling technique over the affected areas to encourage regeneration.

Boxcar scars have more defined vertical edges and a depressed centre. Here, we use an angled technique around the scar, aiming to soften those edges and build up the base.

Ice pick scars are narrow, deep indentations and probably some of the trickiest to treat. We recommend stamping, using a controlled apply-and-lift movement rather than pressing the device into the skin.

Whatever technique you're using, microneedling should never be random. Your technique, pressure and device control can make or break the outcome. More trauma doesn't necessarily mean better results.

Don't underestimate recovery

The treatment triggers inflammation, but we want the skin to progress through that inflammatory phase and into regeneration.

Exosome formulations are one approach we use to support inflammatory signalling, fibroblast activity and barrier recovery, although their clinical benefits are still being investigated.

Post-treatment protection, particularly SPF, is essential. You also need to manage expectations: acne scar revision generally requires at least three to six treatments, and clients may need longer intervals between sessions to recover. Ultimately, successful acne scar revision comes down to careful assessment, intentional technique and supporting skin before, during and after treatment.

LESLEY CORRIDAN

Lesley Corridan is an education manager at Dermalogica UK, specialising in professional skin treatment education and advanced techniques. She focuses on developing practical treatment skills and confidence in delivering results-driven services. She shared this advice live on stage at Professional Beauty London 2026.