SMOOTH the way

From choosing the right wax to tailoring aftercare, Ellen Cummings gets the experts’ advice on adapting techniques for different skin tones and hair types

Waxing is a go-to treatment for hair removal, but when it comes to working on diverse skin tones and hair textures, a one-size-fits-all approach doesn’t cut it. From managing the risk of pigmentation to choosing the right wax formulation, there’s a lot that goes into creating safe and effective waxing services for every client.

We spoke to three industry experts – Hannah-Curlita Dennis, educator and founder of Curlita Beauty Academy in Stafford; Asma Docrat, a beauty specialist based in London; and Nancy Nmezu, owner of Nancy’s Mobile Beauty in Gravesend – about how beauty professionals can adapt their techniques and product choices to ensure a comfortable and effective service for every client.

How skin tone impacts waxing

Clients with darker skin tones may be more prone to complications after waxing, such as hyperpigmentation or burns, due to higher melanin levels. “Skin tone plays a massive part in waxing due to the melanin levels,” explains Dennis. “People with darker skin, like myself, are more prone to post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation if the skin is irritated, grazed or cut with waxing. The darker the skin the more heat it retains, which in turn makes darker skin more sensitive to burning from the wax, especially if it’s too hot.”

Docrat agrees: “People with darker skin tones are more likely to experience or are prone to postinflammatory hyperpigmentation (PIH), meaning any irritation, heat or trauma such as waxing can trigger dark spots or uneven skin tone. Professionals need to be extra mindful of temperature, technique and aftercare to minimise irritation.”

Nmezu adds, “I find that fairer skin tones tend to show immediate signs of irritation, such as redness and inflammation, making it easier to spot a reaction. On the other hand, darker skin tones may not display redness as prominently, but they can still experience irritation, which may show up later as hyperpigmentation.”

Understanding hair texture

Curly, coarse and fine hair all require different handling during waxing. Professionals who don’t adapt their technique risk breakage, missed hairs or increased ingrown hairs.

“Curly or coarse hair is mainly found in Black and Brown ethnicities,” says Dennis. “We need to pay attention to the curl pattern and how it grows, as this hair type can grow at different angles. We apply the wax to the direction of the way hair grows, so sometimes doing this with this curl pattern can be tricky. If possible, use a small brush to brush the hair to really see the curl pattern, then apply the wax.”

She adds, “This hair type is more prone to ingrown hairs, so you have to make sure you remove the wax and the hairs properly. It’s best to advise the client to use a gentle exfoliator a few days before treatment.”

Docrat also points out, “Coarse or curly hair tends to be more deeply rooted and can be more resistant to removal, so you may need to go over the area a few times to remove stubborn hairs. Finer hair, on the other hand, tends to lift more easily but may be harder to grip with certain wax formulations. Understanding these differences helps in selecting the right wax and technique.”

Choosing the right wax and ingredients

“Hard/hot wax is often better for coarse or curly hair as it grips the hair without sticking to the skin, reducing irritation,” explains Docrat. “It’s also ideal for sensitive areas and darker skin tones prone to hyperpigmentation. Ingredients like azulene, chamomile and aloe vera can help calm the skin post-wax.”

Nmezu recommends “hypoallergenic wax formulations with soothing agents like lavender or aloe vera that are ideal for sensitive skin” and adds, “Hot wax is especially beneficial for clients with darker skin tones, as it minimises the risk of postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.”

Skin analysis is key

“Analyse the skin’s condition and look for signs of sensitivity, irritation, dryness or inflammation,” says Dennis. “Check for skin conditions – ask about eczema, psoriasis, rosacea, or any other skin conditions that could be aggravated by waxing. Identify the Fitzpatrick skin type – this scale helps predict how the skin will react to waxing and whether it is prone to hyperpigmentation.”

Nmezu also highlights the importance of asking the right questions: “This includes asking about any allergies, skin conditions, sensitivities or recent treatments that could affect the skin’s reaction to waxing.”

Docrat adds that you can opt for a patch test if you’re unsure how a client’s skin will react, especially if it’s their first waxing appointment with you.

Managing the risk of hyperpigmentation

“Professionals should be aware that clients prone to hyperpigmentation require extra care before, during and after waxing to prevent skin discolouration,” says Nmezu. “Excessive heat from waxing can increase the risk of PIH, so professionals must ensure the wax temperature is appropriate to prevent burns or irritation.”

Dennis cautions against working on sensitised skin, particularly in clients using skin-lightening products. “There are different cultures who use products for skin bleaching. If waxing pros have a client who does, they need to tell them they can’t wax them as this can cause very bad damage.”

Docrat suggests, “Advise clients on post-wax sun protection. Soothing ingredients like niacinamide or liquorice extract can also help prevent dark spots from forming.”

Busting common waxing myths

“A common misconception is that darker skin is tougher and stronger so you can go over areas multiple times and it will be OK – when in actual fact, the total opposite is true,” says Dennis. “The darker the skin, the more prone to pigmentation issues, burns and irritation, so treat it with caution.”

Nmezu wants to bust another myth: “Some people may believe that waxing encourages the hairs to grow back quicker. When waxing is done correctly and hair is removed from the root, it can actually reduce the rate of hair growth.”

Making waxing services more inclusive

Creating a more inclusive waxing experience starts with education and communication. “There’s so much a salon can do and education is a great way to ensure everyone does a fantastic job,” says Docrat. “Not every salon can stock several types of waxes but if they can invest in understanding their clients and their needs, then that’s the first step to ensuring the salon creates a space that’s a welcoming for all clients.”

Dennis highlights the importance of visibility: “Businesses offering waxing services should make sure they have a representation of different cultures in their marketing. People want to see themselves! It makes them feel more comfortable and trusting in your brand, company and skills. Also, show case studies on everyone. If you don’t have any, ask for models to build your portfolio up so you have a catalogue of different skin tones and cultures.”