Skincare

Making waves

PDRN promises skin regeneration, improved elasticity and barrier repair, but what’s the science behind the hype? Ellen Cummings explores the evidence behind topical PDRN formulations and their place in professional treatments

Once largely confined to medical aesthetics, polydeoxyribonucleotide (PDRN) is finding its way into everything from professional facial protocols to everyday serums. Promising skin regeneration, improved elasticity and a stronger barrier, it has become the latest Korean skincare ingredient to capture international attention.

However, behind the excitement lies an important scientific question: can an ingredient traditionally administered through injections really deliver comparable benefits when applied to the skin’s surface?

From Korean clinics to British bathrooms

PDRN’s popularity can be traced to South Korea, where regenerative skin treatments have long occupied a prominent position in aesthetic medicine.

“PDRN first gained traction in Korea through the medical aesthetics and dermatology clinic space in the mid-2010s, particularly via injectable skin booster treatments such as Rejuran,” explains Poppy Smith from Pureseoul, a UK-based specialist retailer of Korean skincare.

Rejuran, developed by South Korean pharmaceutical company PharmaResearch, helped popularise salmon-derived polynucleotide treatments, particularly among consumers seeking improvements in skin quality rather than dramatic aesthetic changes.

As injectable treatments gained recognition, Korean skincare manufacturers began incorporating PDRN into creams, ampoules and serums, bringing a clinic-associated ingredient into homecare.

“Consumers are becoming increasingly interested in skin longevity, barrier health, and low-irritation skincare,” explains Smith. “At the same time, the crossover between aesthetics and retail beauty has grown, with more consumers seeking clinic-inspired ingredients for at-home use.”

This transition reflects a broader movement towards maintaining skin resilience and supporting recovery, rather than relying exclusively on intensive corrective treatments.

What exactly is PDRN?

PDRN consists of fragments of DNA, traditionally purified from salmon or trout reproductive tissue. These fragments are

associated with biological processes involved in tissue repair, cellular activity and inflammation regulation.

Research suggests PDRN can influence the adenosine A2A receptor, which helps regulate inflammatory responses and tissue repair. It may also support cellular regeneration through the nucleotide salvage pathway, which allows cells to reuse DNA components.

Much of the scientific interest originally came from wound-healing research. A 2014 randomised, placebo-controlled study published in the Journal of Clinical

Endocrinology & Metabolism investigated PDRN in 216 patients with difficult-to-heal diabetic foot ulcers. After eight weeks, complete healing occurred in 37.3% of patients receiving PDRN, compared with 18.9% receiving placebo.

Crucially, however, the treatment was administered through intramuscular and local injections, not ordinary cosmetic application. These findings support PDRN’s potential in tissue repair but cannot automatically be applied to topical skincare.

PDRN in skincare

Like many active ingredients, there are questions around topical PDRN concerning molecular size. Traditional PDRN comprises relatively large, negatively charged DNA fragments, making penetration through the skin’s protective stratum corneum difficult. This presents a challenge for products promising effects within the deeper dermis, where fibroblasts produce collagen and elastin.

“Traditionally, PDRN has been associated with injectable treatments, so naturally there are questions around how well it can perform when applied topically. This is where the formulation and delivery method become important,” says Amy Holland-Rathmill, head of sales at Million Dollar Facial.

Manufacturers are investigating several approaches, including smaller DNA fragments, alternative molecular structures and delivery technologies designed to improve penetration.

Simone Shoffman, education and clinical director at Healthxchange, describes an approach involving DNA chains folded into a three-dimensional tetrahedral structure, intended to reduce the limitations associated with conventional PDRN.

Encouragingly, independent research is also beginning to address the evidence gap. A 2026 study published in peer-reviewed journal PLOS One examining a medium-length PDRN preparation investigated its penetration and effects on photodamaged skin. Researchers used laboratory and skin models alongside a 28-day randomised, double-blind, split-face trial comparing a PDRN eye cream with retinol.

The findings suggested improvements in periocular wrinkles and skin measurements, alongside evidence of PDRN-associated material reaching viable epidermal layers. However, this was research into a particular formulation, and the findings cannot establish that all topical PDRN products penetrate or perform similarly.

What benefits can therapists expect?

The most promising applications for topical PDRN concern skin quality, barrier support and recovery.

For clients experiencing dehydration, dullness, sensitivity or visible signs of ageing, PDRN-containing formulations may offer an additional supportive ingredient within a broader treatment programme.

Research published in the peer-reviewed journal Molecules in 2023 investigated PDRN extracted from ginseng roots, examining its effects on skin regeneration and barrier function. Researchers found increased activity in keratinocytes and fibroblasts, alongside improvements in barrier-related markers in laboratory and reconstructed skin models.

Importantly, these findings provide evidence of biological activity, rather than definitive proof of clinical improvements in human skin. The distinction is particularly relevant when considering claims surrounding collagen stimulation, wrinkle reduction and accelerated post-treatment recovery.

While these effects are biologically plausible, therapists should distinguish between outcomes demonstrated in controlled human trials and those suggested by laboratory research or manufacturer testing.

From serum to treatment room

Professional skincare companies are increasingly positioning PDRN as a complement to treatments designed to improve skin quality, particularly microneedling.

Depending on the formulation and manufacturer-approved protocol, it may be incorporated into recovery-focused facials, applied after certain procedures or delivered using specialist technologies.

Lauren Evans, training and development officer at CACI, explains how its needle-free approach combines ultrasonic atomisation, electro-infusion and LED technology to deliver a plant-derived PDRN formulation.

Meanwhile, other professional systems position PDRN-containing concentrates alongside microneedling or as a postprocedure recovery step.

The commercial opportunity is already visible in UK clinics, with many promoting PDRN skin-rejuvenation microneedling treatments. However, therapists must remember that microneedling itself has established effects on skin remodelling. Improvements following a combined treatment cannot necessarily be attributed to PDRN without appropriately controlled comparative studies.

Product suitability is equally important. A cosmetic serum intended for intact skin should never automatically be considered suitable for application through microneedling-created channels. Sterility, formulation, device compatibility and manufacturer instructions must determine its use.

Supporting results at home

PDRN’s role in homecare may prove more accessible than its use in advanced treatment protocols. “I would position PDRN as part of a wider skin-health routine rather than as a single miracle ingredient. Good cleansing, hydration, barrier support and daily SPF should always form the foundation of homecare,” advises Holland-Rathmill.

For clients undergoing professional treatments, PDRN-containing homecare may complement established barrier-support ingredients such as ceramides, panthenol and hyaluronic acid.

However, post-procedure application requires particular care. Products suitable for everyday use may not be appropriate immediately after microneedling, chemical peels or laser treatments, when barrier integrity is temporarily compromised.

Therapists are advised to follow treatment-specific aftercare protocols and avoid introducing potentially irritating formulations during early recovery.

Suitability, sourcing and contraindications

PDRN-containing skincare is marketed towards a broad range of skin types, particularly dehydrated, mature and sensitised skin. Nevertheless, suitability depends on the complete formulation, not simply the presence of PDRN.

Its traditional fish-derived origins also mean it’s important to consider allergies and ethical preferences when discussing suitability with clients.

Plant-derived alternatives are emerging, including formulations using ginseng-derived DNA fragments. However, these should not automatically be considered chemically or clinically interchangeable with conventional salmon-derived PDRN.

Therapists should establish the ingredient’s source, check for known sensitivities and assess whether the formulation is appropriate for the client’s skin condition.

Extra caution is warranted during pregnancy and breastfeeding, where product-specific safety evidence may be limited, and on actively infected or damaged skin unless a suitable medically indicated product is being used.

Regenerative approach

While research is beginning to demonstrate the potential of topical PDRN, many in the industry argue that further studies are needed to establish how different formulations and delivery methods influence its effectiveness.

For skin therapists, the most sensible approach is neither to dismiss PDRN nor accept every regenerative claim made on every product at face value. Instead, its value should be assessed through each formulation’s quality, clinical evidence and suitability within an individualised treatment plan.