Grow TOGETHER

Everyone wants full and healthy lashes, but that can be hard to achieve for several reasons. Understand the causes of thinning lashes and you can help clients achieve the best lashes of their life, writes Kezia Parkins

The eyes are the focal point of the face and lashes help to frame and enhance their beauty, hence why clients get addicted to lash extensions, lifts, volumising mascaras and serums. It’s also the reason that it can be devastating to them if these treatments cause damage to their natural lashes or if the lashes become sparse or thin due to illness. We asked the experts for some of the most common reasons for thinning lashes and what can help reverse and prevent this.

Understanding thinning lashes

“There are many factors that can lead to less-than-lustrous lashes,” says Claire Larsen, Revitalash Cosmetics’ global master educator. “For one, we are exposed to daily environmental factors such as free radicals that can damage the cells of our body, including in the lashes – we are inundated with the stressors of life ebbing and flowing, which can wreak havoc on our bodies.

“We don’t always maintain a perfect diet of nutritious vitamins and minerals and in a quest to make our lashes look more beautiful, we can actually damage them with certain makeup.”

Karen Betts, SPMU expert and founder of Nouveau HD Beauty Group, adds, “Thinning lashes can also result from poor lash extension application, poor makeup removal habits and hormonal changes.

“Menopause, thyroid disorders and hormonal imbalances can directly impact lash growth cycles. All of that coupled with the natural process of predisposed genetic ageing can lead to compromised lashes that can be dry, brittle and more prone to breakage.”

Just like the hair on the scalp, eyelashes can become thinner and shorter due to a slow down of follicular activity as we age.

Potential causes

Lash treatments are wildly popular, but done incorrectly or too often they can cause damage to the natural lash.

“Over-processing the lashes with the chemical processes used in services like lash lifts or lash tinting can damage lashes, often making them weak and brittle,” says Larsen. ”While these types of services can create damage, they do not necessarily cause the lashes to become thin.”

Betts adds, “Incorrect use of eyelash curlers, improper lash extension application, harsh removers, and some chemotherapy drugs can damage or weaken natural lashes.”

“Menopause, THYROID DISORDERS and hormonal imbalances can DIRECTLY IMPACT LASH GROWTH CYCLES, leading to COMPROMISED lashes”

Impact of illness

A devastating side effect of chemotherapy cancer treatment is often hair loss – not just on the scalp but everywhere, including the lashes, causing sufferers significant distress as lashes are hard to fake when there are none. Even strip lashes are often a no-go.

“Lash loss due to cancer treatment can impact confidence and emotional wellbeing,” explains Betts, who started her SPMU business to find a solution for a friend who lost her lashes and brows while going through cancer treatment. “Many clients feel it strips away part of their identity.” Aside from chemotherapy, conditions like alopecia, thyroid disorders, lupus and certain autoimmune diseases can cause lash thinning or complete lash loss.

Growing lashes healthily

Lash treatments shouldn’t be damaging unless they are done incorrectly or on the wrong client, so proper training and consultation are paramount to help keep clients’ lashes healthy.

“Genetics and hormonal fluctuations are more likely to cause the lash follicle to become thinner,” says Larsen. “But if you’re noticing that your client’s lash hairs look less dense, you may want to advise they visit their medical professional so that they can help them to determine the root cause.”

Betts recommends nourishing lash serums, gentle cleansing, avoiding mechanical damage, and encouraging a healthy diet rich in vitamins.

Top ingredients

The popularity of lash serums has boomed over the past five years due to their ability to help clients grow full, strong and sometimes unbelievably long lashes. In fact, the global eyelash serum market size was valued at $752.1 million (£553.8m) in 2020, and is projected to reach $1.3 billion (£957m) by 2031, growing at a compound annual growth rate (CAGR) of 5.7% from 2022 to 2031, according to analyst Allied Market Research.

Many lash serums on the market contain prostaglandins, a group of lipids including isopropyl cloprostenate. Prostaglandins were originally used for the treatment of glaucoma. A surprising side-effect was the growth of super-long, thick lashes.

Lash serum brand Revitalash contains a high-quality prostaglandin analogue and was originally developed for the founder’s wife, who lost her lashes due to cancer treatment.

Avoiding irritation

Some of the cheaper serums that have flooded the market more recently contain cheaper forms of prostaglandin and have been known to cause unwanted side-effects such as styes or an increase in the appearance of dark circles. Our experts say if this occurs, therapists should advise clients to stop use.

“Key growth ingredients to look out for include peptides, biotin, panthenol (pro-vitamin B5), hyaluronic acid, and plant extracts like pumpkin seed and ginseng, all known to strengthen and stimulate growth,” says Betts.

In order to reduce the potential for irritation, Larsen recommends only applying a thin line of lash serum on clean, dry upper eyelashes above the lash line, once each day or night. “After that, you should advise clients to allow it to dry completely for two-to-three minutes before applying additional beauty products,” she adds. “Overall, just keep in mind that a little goes a long way and over-applying is not necessary, nor recommended.”