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ask the EXPERTS

How can I create home peeling kits for clients during lockdown?

With the coronavirus situation, we’ve all had to adapt fast. I started to look at what I could still offer to my clients in lockdown, some of whom have challenging skin conditions and were in the middle of courses when we had to close. I decided to develop a home peeling treatment, and I’m not talking about high-strength clinic solutions, just working with the cosmeceutical brands I stock to put together skin kits that contain some hydroxy acids and enzyme ingredients.

During the first stage I ask clients to send photographs of their skin in good lighting with no make-up on, then I email them a lifestyle consultation and medical questionnaire to check for any contraindications. After that, I set up a remote consultation, which can be done through Skype, FaceTime or WhatsApp, where we talk about their skin condition and the treatment protocol I want to bring together as a skincare plan.

I then put together a pack for them with a step-by-step programme using sample pots. I decant some of my exfoliating cleansers for step one; step two is skin polish; step three is the solution – so either an enzyme or dermabrading cream; and step four is post-treatment recovery, which might be a sheet mask, for example.

In the kits, I also include some disposables, such as a headband, some soft gauze and a small fan brush – or simply cotton buds – to decant the solution. I also include a printed step-by-step guide.

If the client is new. I’d be advising them to prepare their skin by using active ingredients for a week or two in advance, checking in with them a week later. Then I’m not leaving the client to do their soft peeling on their own, they log in and we go through the protocol together. I ask them to have bowls of water, a towel and a mirror ready, then I talk them through the treatment.

For new clients, I absolutely check in with them via a video call 24 hours in advance to do a patch test together, but the solutions I suggest are not professional-use only, so it’s nothing super-strong.

Speak to your suppliers and see what they can offer you for soft home peeling. Some are even offering a drop-ship service so can deliver direct to your client for free.

In the kit, I also include a printed copy of aftercare advice, as well a voucher for a slightly discounted treatment for when my clinic is up and running again after coronavirus lockdown.

Martine Jarman is founder and director of SkinGenius clinic in Warrington. She also won the Professional Beauty Aesthetic Therapist of the Year Award in 2015.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?

Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

Should I update or correct the work of other semi-permanent make-up technicians?

Not all new clients who come to you will have untouched skin and you may need to consider taking on another technician’s work, offering top-ups, colour corrections and removal. You’ll need to know about colour theory when carrying out top-ups and corrections, but there’s a time when adding more pigment just won’t work and you’ll need to offer removal instead.

Think visually when working on existing pigment as there’s already one colour in the skin, so you need to add another one to make the target colour. This takes practice, but if your basic colour theory is good, and both you and your client can be patient, then taking on this kind of work is very rewarding.

If colour theory wasn’t covered much during your training, it’s worth researching the companies and pigment brands that offer workshops Removal might be needed if the pigment is too dark or grey, in an unwanted shape or if the skin has become saturated with years of top-ups.

Old and faded pigment appears as a different or lighter colour, giving the illusion that there’s less pigment in the skin. But pigment molecules remain forever, it’s only their colour that changes. When skin is full of pigment, there’s no room for more, and this is the reason why microblading doesn’t heal well or last on top of old semi-permanent make-up.

Tattoo removal is the only option for this situation, lifting out as much of the old pigment as needed, then reworking with a new pair of brows.

Some removal methods can be done with a hand tool or a tattoo machine, making tattoo removal the perfect add-on treatment for microbladers and semi-permanent make-up technicians. Training is required to offer this specialist treatment, so always check that any course is insurance approved

Lisa Henning is founder and head trainer for Botched Ink, a pigment removal solution for microbladers.

How can I create a bespoke treatment for clients?

As therapists, we’re trained from day one to follow a procedure – a method designed and created by someone else. This is great for industry novices but it leaves little room for the more experienced to get creative and put their own stamp on the treatments they deliver day in, day out.

Clients love the chance to experience something different, which is why we should go above and beyond the standard routine and tailor treatments to clients’ individual needs.

So, where to start when creating your signature sense of self? Firstly, pay attention. Listen closely to your clients’ needs and engage in a meaningful conversation about priority concerns. Maybe they want a deep steam with plenty of extractions, or they want to zone out and have a more blissful treatment? The more you listen to the person in front of you, the more you will understand how to create a totally unique experience for them.

The bottom line is, we are all human, yet we are totally individual beings with absolutely different needs, and those needs change every single day.

As therapists, it is our job to pay attention and deliver. Therapy should never become a mundane routine; keep the passion alive and let your creativity flow.

Lyndsay Flannery is the pro educator at SBC skincare, which incorporates a five phase concept to deliver personalised treatments.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?

Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

How can I conceal natural tan lines on my spray tan clients?

If your client has tan lines from the sun that they want to conceal, spray tanning is great way to temporarily hide them. Having a spray tan can even out the skin tone and help to blend those noticeable lines and make them appear less obvious.

If they have any sunburn then wait until that goes before you spray them, as it may cause added irritation. Also bear in mind that because sunburn causes trauma to the skin, it can affect the outcome of your spray tan – it may not take as well on burnt or previously burnt skin.

I would advise you to use a slightly darker shade than your usual one if you’re looking to even out tan lines from the sun. This will help even out the skin tone and disguise the lines better.

It’s best to take a multi-pronged approach that includes a handheld tan solution before you spray tan them. For the paler parts of skin, use a cosmetic sponge to blend and apply tanning solution. This isn’t going to colour-match perfectly to the client’s tan but is key preparation to even out the difference.

Once the hand-applied tan is completely dry, begin to spray tan with a light coat of your airbrush solution to even the tan lines further. I’ve found using a fast-drying solution is best for this, paired with a hose-free spray gun for an easy-to-move spray tan.

Carrie Marsh is the VIP spray tanner at Norvell Tanning and has tanned several celebrity clients including cast members on Strictly Come Dancing.

How can I perfect my facial waxing technique?

A good consultation prior to waxing is key. Check if your client is on any medication as retinoids, acne medication and chemical peels can all sensitise the skin.

Cleanse the skin before waxing with an alcohol-free pre-wax cleanser. Face creams, make-up and natural oils in the skin will stop the waxes from adhering as well as they could. Use talc-free powder before applying your wax as this will really help you to grab every last hair.

Peelable or hot wax is preferable to strip wax for the face. It’s kinder to the skin, plus, you can go over the same area more than once. When you repeat your application, go against the hair growth as this will get out every last hair. Paint the wax on firmly with your spatula to really coat each hair.

Wax the face first, before other body parts, as this gives the skin time to settle down. Then, apply a soothing facial after-wax cream, preferably with sun protection or a hair retardant to slow down the hair regrowth.

Tell the client not to touch the area after it’s been waxed and send them home with a sample of your post-wax cream. Also, tell them not to shower, go swimming, or use saunas or sunbeds afterwards.

Tracey Smith is director of waxing brand Ashmira Botanica. She has more than 30 years’ industry experience.

DO YOU HAVE ANY QUESTIONS TO PUT TO OUR EXPERTS?

Send your question about absolutely anything to do with running a beauty business to editorial@professionalbeauty.co.uk

How can I get the most return on investment from my tan solution?

Are you getting through a lot of solution? Maybe your cubicle or overspray booth is very wet? Or you’re spraying clients with two coats and it’s taking a long time to dry? These are sure signs that you are spraying far too much.

You should be getting 18–20 tans from a 1l bottle of solution. To find out how many tans you are currently getting from a litre, start with a new bottle and mark on the bottle after every tan, and remember to pour your gun solution back into the bottle first before doing this. If you get to half way and you’re at 8 to 10 tans, then you’re doing ok. Any lower and you should turn down your gun flow down so that you can stand a hand distance away – your spraying should leave a light sheen on your client’s skin.

Practise on a piece of couch roll and always start with your client’s back, as this gives you a chance to make adjustments more easily. Remember, the guide colour is only there for you. If your client asks you to spray again because it looks too light, remind them that they won’t see the true colour until it has developed.

After you’ve finished spraying, ask your client if they can see anything they are not happy with. Show them their palms, which should be free of tan. Explain that they will touch their face and body subconsciously afterwards, so will need to wash their palms regularly, as you’ll be surprised that some call the next day to complain that you’ve sprayed their hands.

Nicola Matthews is the founder of tanning and waxing brand Sienna X brand and the Pop up Spray Tan Tents.

How can I prepare my business to be leaner post-lockdown?

Now is the perfect time to work on your long-term plan. It should include marketing, forecasts and everything you need to get your beauty salon back on track.

Look at your long-term goals and your self-talk. You have a blank canvas with your business where you can start to put into the place all of the things that you’ve thought about but have previously never got around to.

Grab a pen and paper and write “opportunities are” and then underneath, in capitals, write the letters N O W H E R E. Take a look at it. You may have read it as “Opportunities are nowhere” or as “Opportunities are now here”. There is a really small shift that takes it from a negative to a positive, and it’s a good thing to remember to make sure you are staying positive.

In my coaching, I always get salon owners to make long-term goals – it could be financial, business or personal. You could even ask your team to have a think about this too.

Make an achievable target; something you know you can do. Then make a second target that’s slightly pushing your comfort zone and a third, more outrageous target. You’d be surprised by the number of times that the outrageous target becomes a reality and a small part of your business down the line.

Susan Routledge is a salon business coach, founder of the Beauty Directors Club, and owner of Finishing Touches salon.
This article appears in June 2020

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June 2020
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