Should clients be DITCHING their moisturiser?

For many people, a results-driven moisturiser is a staple in their daily beauty routine and has been for many years. However, despite the mantra “cleanse, tone, moisturise” having been recommended by the beauty industry since the ’50s, some dermatologists and aesthetics experts are now advising that a face cream is no longer an essential part of a good skincare routine. These professionals are recommending customers invest their time and money in hydrating, hardworking serums instead.

As one of the best-selling products in the market, it’s doubtful that moisturisers will be leaving beauty retail shelves anytime soon, especially as many people are happy with the results of their go-to cream and how their skin is accustomed to the formulation. But, why is this debate happening now and what are the professionals saying are the cons of using a moisturiser?

Two successful facialists, who are both leading skin experts, offer their opposing views on the issue

“Why I’m anti-moisturiser”

“Clients are shocked when I tell them that in most cases they don’t need to use a moisturiser – the product is a waste of time and potentially damaging to their skin. Their hard-earned money could be spent on more effective, preventative and protective skincare products instead.

“Moisturisers merely sit on the surface of the skin and interfere with its natural cycle of exfoliation, resulting in old, dead cells sticking to the surface. This makes the skin feel temporarily soft and smooth but it is a misconception, and can cause a cycle of addiction to moisturisers.

“Moisturisers shut down cellular communication, causing dryness and premature ageing. Young skin doesn’t need a moisturiser because it is generally healthy, strong, firm and resistant, it’s only as they start to age that clients tend to adopt the ‘cleanse, tone and moisturise’ concept that the beauty industry promotes.

“However, only a skin type that is exceptionally dry, or those that suffer with eczema and psoriasis, will need an emollient moisturising cream to prevent trans-epidermal water loss.

“Our skin naturally hydrates itself externally from the environment, by taking droplets of moisture from the air, and internally from our diet and the amount of water we drink.

Product overload

Product overload “Another important factor in our skin’s hydration is the production of hyaluronic acid (HA), which is classed as a humectant and can retain up to 1,000 times its own weight in water. A family of proteins called aquaporins act as water channels within our cells and are responsible for drawing up HA from the dermis to hydrate the epidermal cells and the stratum corneum.

Moisturisers shut down cellular communication, causing dryness and premature ageing. Young skin doesn’t need a moisturiser because it is generally healthy and strong

“Fibroblast cells produce vital components such as elastin, collagen and glycosaminoglycans (GAGS) – all of which contribute to healthy, hydrated skin. Using a moisturiser overfeeds the surface of the skin with oils and lipids, which in turn leads to a breakdown in cellular communication, causing cells to become lazy. Fibroblasts become less active and then slow down the vital production of collagen, elastin and GAGS, all of which results in premature ageing.

“As an alternative to moisturisers, I advise clients to use corrective and preventative serums, which contain high concentrations of active ingredients such as retinol, antioxidants, growth factors and anti-inflammatory agents.

“These products stimulate the skin at a cellular level, helping to repair DNA and prevent premature ageing.”

“Why I’m pro moisturiser”

“Healthy skin comes down to diet, lifestyle and maintaining a good skincare routine. An essential product I recommend clients use daily is an oil-free, lightweight moisturiser, which is great for myriad skin types, including acne, oily and combination. For those with dehydrated, mature or sensitive skin, I recommend a much richer cream specific to their needs.

“My side of this debate is that there are moisturisers out there for all skin types which do not cause adverse reactions or compromise the skin’s pH.

“A moisturiser works on the skin’s water levels, helping to attract moisture and increase lost water from the transepidermal layers, helping to prevent flaking cells and improving skin’s overall appearance.

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“The job of a moisturiser is to provide a little bit of water each day, which penetrates the cell membranes to plump up and rehydrate the outermost layers of dead skin cells that appear dry and dull. The other components of a moisturiser are there to lock in moisture and build strength in the protective barrier function of the skin.

Moisturisers play an important part in hydration… they work on the skin’s water levels, helping to attract moisture and increase lost water from the trans-epidermal layers

“Just because a moisturiser comes with a high price tag, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s a better option for your client either – all commercial face creams pretty much work on the same principle of production.

“The only difference is the brand may add additional ingredients such as preservatives, alcohol and essential oils, along with a particular pleasant fragrance, all of which are not needed and are only present for the customer’s senses.

“Choosing the correct moisturiser for your client’s skin type is essential, so following the latest skincare fad – for example, CBD oil – isn’t correct for everyone and can result in adverse reactions such as breakouts or sensitivity, making clients think they need to dump their face creams for the wrong reasons. It’s about educating clients about the different types of face creams out there and what will work for their skin type.

“In a nutshell, moisturisers play an important part in skin cell hydration, whether clients choose to apply it every day or a few times a week. So, recommending a few options for their bathroom cabinet is always a good idea.” PB

Disclaimer: the thoughts and opinions expressed belong solely to the authors and are not the view of Professional Beauty or Trades Exhibitions Limited