News

Beauty and hair contributes £6.6bn to economy

A first-of-its-kind report has demonstrated the value of the hair and beauty sector to the UK economy, with the aim of proving the need for regulation.

The “Economic Impact Assessment Report of the Hair and Beauty Sector on the UK Economy” was produced by the Hair & Barber Council in partnership with Babtac.

The aim was to show the UK Government how much money the hair and beauty industry brings to the economy to highlight the need for mandatory licencing.

The report, which was launched in late May, found that the sector comprises more than 49,371 businesses employing between 286,889 and 337,000 people.

Between £5.6 billion and £6.6bn was the total gross value generated by the UK hair and beauty sector in 2017. The gross value added per worker in the UK was estimated to be £19,398.

The associations said this is the first report into the sector to be peer reviewed and the first to use PAYE data rather than estimating figures based solely on surveys.

Babtac chair Lesley Blair said, “I am confident that once [Government] influencers are aware of the significant contribution that our industry is making, they will sit up and take us seriously and listen to our requirements for a selfregulation framework.”

Other key recommendations include inclusion of hair and beauty in the Creative Industries Sector Deal, meaning it should be recognised as a creative industry and given the associated support to continue to thrive.

The report also recommended that the UK Government should improve careers advice to accurately represent the excellent professional opportunities available in beauty and hair.

Burnout recognised as a medical condition

With mental health in the spotlight, the World Health Organization (WHO) has officially recognised burnout as a chronic condition, with it being globally identified as a disease by 2020.

WHO will add “burnout” to its International Classification of Diseases (ICD), defining it as “a syndrome conceptualised as resulting from chronic workplace stress that has not been successfully managed.

It is characterised by feelings of energy depletion or exhaustion; increased mental distance from one’s job, or feelings of negativism or cynicism related to one’s job; and reduced professional efficacy.

The organisation said: “It refers specifically to phenomena in the occupational context and should not be applied to describe experiences in other areas of life.”

Burnout is a real issue for both clients and staff in the beauty industry, with many therapists saying it affects their concentration and treatment delivery. This is the first time the condition has been recognised in WHO’s handbook for medical conditions.

The decision was made on May 27 during the World Health Assembly in Geneva and comes a year after global health experts recommended it be added to the catalogue.

inbrief

// Elemis has partnered with interior designer Kelly Hoppen and British Airways on a refresh of the Heathrow Travel Spas. Located in the airport’s Terminals 5 and 3, the new-look spas feature soft furnishings and an updated treatment menu, with complimentary 15-minute Biotec add-ons.

// Following this year’s weeklong CND International Bootcamp in Edinburgh, Scotland, distributor Sweet Squared has announced six new CND education ambassadors: Helen Burton-Ward for London, Nicole Crowell for Newcastle, Jacki Clarke for Manchester, Victoria Trafford and Georgia Haigh for Leeds, and Elissa Newton Smalls for Northern Ireland.

// Yorkshire-based eco-spa Titanic Spa has partnered with skin cancer charity Skcin. Its therapists have been enrolled in MASCED (Melanoma and skin cancer early detection), Skcin’s national accreditation programme for beauty professionals, to help spot potential signs of skin cancer on clients.

// As part of extending its wellness offering, Grayshott Health Spa in surrey has launched Regime Gastronomy cookery school in partnership with Applegate Farm, where guests will prepare dishes that promote a healthy microbiome, then take the recipes home to use them as part of a 360-degree approach to wellness.

// Spa group Champneys has partnered with charity service Cancer Hair Care on a Hair Loss Friendly Campaign. Therapists have been trained in cancer support services such as scalp care guidance, and will offer wig stands and head scarves to help guests feel more welcome and nurtured.

Sally Durant Training enters administration after 10 years of trading

Sally Durant Training and Consultancy, which provided accredited courses on advanced skin studies, went into administration on May 14 after 10 years of trading, leaving many students out of pocket.

Founder Sally Durant said: “While I have tried everything in my power to restructure or refinance the business in order to save it, I have been unable to secure a way forward.

“The delays in Government legislation and slow implementation of the JCCP register, together with the financial uncertainty over Brexit, not to mention a considerable amount of ill luck, have all taken a huge toll on the viability of the business.”

Durant sought the advice of a licensed insolvency practitioner who told her to declare herself bankrupt. The official receiver will be in touch with colleges and students with regard to money that is owed.

London College of Beauty Therapy (LCBT) said that those learners who were doing Level 4 courses in collaboration with them should get in touch. “We will ensure all enrolled with us are able to complete their course,” added chief executive Christianne Cavaliere.

Babtac and Cibtac have also advised affected learners to get in touch with them for advice and updates via enquiries@cibtac.com

Consumers now waking up to effects of nutrition on the skin

The effects of good nutrition on the skin are starting to be better understood by beauty consumers, according to a survey by skincare supplement brand Lycored.

Of more than 500 regular skincare users from the UK, US, France, China, Japan and Korea, 98% agreed that good nutrition is necessary to achieve a healthy glow.

Sleep came out top when asked which factors contributed to glowing skin, with 66% of respondents choosing this option, followed by 65% who said a healthy diet was most important.

When asked to choose foods likely to help skin glow from the inside out, those rich in vitamin E such as almonds and sunflower seeds came out top, with 79% ranking these foods in first or second place.

Next were foods rich in carotenoids, like carrots and tomatoes (65%) and those containing collagen (46%).

inbrief

// Eve Taylor is planting one tree for every skincare product sold as part of its new environmental campaign Give Back to Nature. Launched in partnership with non-profit organisation Trees for the Future, the brand is committed to planting a minimum of 100,000 trees a year.

// Professional product manufacturer Salon System has announced its 2019 Wax Squad, a team of specialists to share waxing tips with the industry. The squad includes Salon System educators Lisa Stone, Anjula Thakrar, Alex Dawes, Abbie Withers and Cara Neumann; plus male waxing specialist Andy Rouillard.

// Distributor Gerrard International has bagged The Spa at Southlodge in Horsham as a new account. The 44,000sq ft spa will offer Jessica treatments in its Ridgeview Beauty Bar, as well as stocking brands Mii, Spongellé and Scentered in its retail shop.

// Only 17% of Brits have used a buy button on social media to purchase products, preferring to try an item in a salon or store before parting with their cash, found research by retailer OnBuy.com. 56% said they were concerned about the security of social commerce.

// Katie Baxter (centre) won Trainer of the Year at Novalash’s 2019 LashOff Awards in Houston, US. Having worked for the lash-extension brand for five years, Baxter teaches Classic and American Volume techniques to students in the north of Scotland and Inverness. She is the first international trainer to ever win the award.

UK plastic straw and cotton bud ban coming into force in April 2020

Environmental secretary Michael Gove has confirmed that plastic straws, stirrers and cotton buds will be banned from April 2020.

The move is being made to reduce the effect of single-use plastics on the planet, with Gove saying the UK needed to take “urgent and decisive action”. Shops and supermarkets will not be allowed to sell the plastic items, while places such as bars, restaurants and spas will need to stop displaying or handing them out.

However, there will be some exemptions to ensure that those with medical needs are able to continue to access plastic straws.

Registered pharmacies will be allowed to sell plastic straws over the counter or online, and other businesses will be able to provide them on request, after disabled groups highlighted how straws are essential for everyday life and that a total ban could lead to the risk of dehydration.

Plastic-stemmed cotton buds are in the top 10 most common litter items that get washed up on the world’s beaches and many use plastic-based adhesives to secure the cotton tips. It’s believed there is more than 150 million tonnes of plastic in the world’s oceans.

Destination Skin acquired by sk:n group

Aesthetic skincare chain Destination Skin has been acquired by advanced skincare clinic group sk:n.

Following its own acquisition by private equity company Tri Span in February, sk:n has bought Destination Skin and its 16 clinics, bringing the total number of clinics operated by the group to 68.

Sk:n said it has plans to open new clinics under both brands in the coming months.

Chief executive Darren Grassby said, “Together, we will be operationally and commercially stronger to innovate and shape the future of the aesthetic skincare market in the UK.

“This is the start of what will be an exciting year for the sk:n group. We have great confidence in the future of the industry and we look forward to giving our clients an enhanced experience in and out of clinic.”

inbrief

// Shared Beauty Secrets’ Lava Shells angel Katie Doo accompanied singer Rita Ora on the European leg of her World Phoenix Tour, giving the star massages using Kokolokahi oils preand post-performance. Doo said: “This has been an experience of a lifetime. There’s something special in giving someone that total feeling of wellbeing.”

// Machines brand CACI has been getting A-listers ready for a host of events, including prepping Australian actress Elizabeth Debicki’s skin for the 2019 Met Gala Ball with its signature non-surgical face lift. Singer Alexandra Burke also enjoyed a Synergy facial before taking to the stage in the Bodyguard in London.

// Nouveau Skin Therapy has launched a series of one-day events to give an insight into its Dermatude and A-Lift treatments. Running until November, the Discovery Days will explain the treatment training and let therapists test out the products, with no commitment to book onto a course.

// Sister properties Eden Hall Day Spa and Hoar Cross Hall have taken on Swiss cosmeceutical brand Dr. Levy Switzerland. The products use a patented stem cell formula to tackle ageing concerns. Both spas will offer treatments including a 55-minute medi-facial and 25-minute eye lift or hand rejuvenation.

// Soil Association-certified organic beauty brand Botanicals has appointed Sara Jane Smith as client relationship manager. Smith will support new and existing professional accounts and brings more than 30 years of experience as a skincare consultant.

Conservative peer targets beauty industry for promoting “obsession with perfection”

The beauty industry promotes an “obsession with perfection” that leads to discrimination against people with disfigurements, a Conservative politician has said.

Commenting on data collected by Changing Faces, a charity which supports people with a mark, scar or Celebrity facialist Teresa Tarmey is opening her second flagship salon in condition that alters their appearance, Minister for Equalities Baroness Williams of Trafford said the beauty industry promoted a distorted perception of beauty that fuels social media abuse.

During a discussion with The Telegraph, Baroness Williams said: “There’s an obsession in the beauty industry with perfection and many girls have got such a distorted perception of what beauty and perfection looks like.”

The Changing Faces report, My Visible Difference, surveyed 1,000 people with a “visible difference” and found that almost a quarter felt self-conscious or embarrassed going out in public.

New rental concept allows freelancers to run their own salon

A salon space has opened in Scotland with a new freelance concept.

Salon Studios houses six individual salons under one roof in Corstorphine, near Edinburgh, each available for rent by independent salon owners.

Founder Roz Colthart said the concept is targeted at beauty, wellness and hair professionals who want to start their own businesses but are put off by the cost.

Rates start at £250 per week and include water, electricity, music licence, health and safety assessment, fire management programme, rubbish collection, wifi, public area cleaning and CCTV.

Colthart said her vision was “happy salon owners able to focus on what they love without getting caught up in… managing staff, paying bills or worrying about cash flow”.

Salon Studios has plans for more sites elsewhere in Edinburgh and across the UK.

Teresa Tarmey opens second London salon

Celebrity facialist Teresa Tarmey is opening her second flagship salon in London’s Belgravia this month. The salon will be dedicated to results-driven skincare offering signature anti-ageing facials in four treatment rooms, an event space for beauty workshops with experts and a retail shop selling Tarmey’s product line (see page 110 for its latest launch), as well as the brands she endorses.

Tarmey opened her first salon in London’s Kensington in 2017 and also has a New York flagship.

Dermalogica promotes skin-positivity with adult acne campaign

Dermalogica is trying to reduce the stigma around adult acne with its new skin-positivity movement #skinindividual.

The campaign aims to normalise talk on breakouts via open conversations with brand ambassadors Made in Chelsea Star Georgia “Toff” Toffolo, beauty editor Amerley Ollenu and actor Liam Lau Fernandez, as well as using untouched images of the celebrities to show that all skin types are beautiful.

“Acne affects women and men of all ages, not only teenagers,” said Sally Penford, Dermalogica’s director of education. “Research shows that adult acne is caused by intrinsic and extrinsic factors, many of which can be managed.

“People put extreme pressure on themselves to have flawless and picture-perfect skin. It’s no wonder that they’re struggling with skin confidence.”

Each of Dermalogica’s campaign ambassadors will share their anecdotes of dealing with adult acne as well as give advice on achieving healthy skin.

“By sharing real skin stories, and celebrating real, unfiltered skin, we hope to help people find skin confidence, knowing that there’s no such thing as ‘perfect’ skin,” added Penford.

The campaign coincides with the launch of three Dermalogica products that are targeted at preventing breakouts – Age Bright Clearing Serum, Age Bright Spot Fader and Clear Start Clearing Defense SPF30.

3D-lipo launches business development scheme

Machines brand 3D-lipo has introduced a new team of business development managers, following the success of its pilot business development scheme.

Responding to demand from customers for more front-facing business support and advice, the brand has rolled out the scheme to its accounts nationwide, in a bid to provide them with step-by-step marketing and branding guidance, with a focus on how to capitalise on 3D-lipo’s press exposure.

The business development managers will also provide regular assistance with pricing structures, treatment protocols, good working practice and equipment maintenance. They are: Dipa Sudra for East London and the South East, Emma Scarr for the North, Lydia Barrett for the South West; and Ross Ware for West London and the home counties. Scott Julian is national sales manager.

diarydates

// July 1–2 Professional Beauty Delhi Pragati Maidan Largest of PB’s India expos with a matchmaking service for brands and distributors. +91 (0)22 6171 3232 professionalbeauty.in

// July 8 Salon Life Beauty Convention 2019 ILEC Conference Centre, London New management conference. 01268 745892 salon-life.co.uk

// July 21 Scratch Summer Party Proud Embankment, London Scratch magazine nail sector awards event. 01959 547000 scratchstarsawards.co.uk

// September 15 Innovative Beauty Conference Castle Hotel, Windsor New one-day conference, followed by Babtac and Cibtac Awards. 01452 623110 babtac.com

// September 29–30 Olympia Beauty Olympia, London Nail and beauty trade show with events. 01959 569867 olympiabeauty.co.uk

// October 5–7 Salon International ExCeL, London The UK’s top exhibition for hairdressing, comprising competitions and live stages. 020 7351 0536 salonshow.co.uk

// October 13–14 Professional Beauty North EventCity, Manchester The largest beauty exhibition in the North. 020 7351 0536 professionalbeauty.co.uk/north